2017 Torrin “The Maven”
Paso Robles
Torrin is a new mailing list for me. My strategy for new lists with a lot of SKUs is to order at least one of everything and taste through the lineup over the course of a year. This gives me a feel for the winemaker’s style and lets me focus future purchases. These wines are almost always too young to fully enjoy, but it is far better to burn a few good bottles than to cellar away cases of stuff you find out that you hate a decade later.
“The Maven” is Torrin’s 100% Grenache label containing fruit entirely from the Torrin estate vineyard. The 2017 is a gorgeous, vibrant violet color. I love the purity of the fruit in the glass with red cherries, strawberries, and blueberries. There is also an incredible floral quality throughout that does not get overwhelmed by the fruit. Medium bodied, elegant, with a finish that goes the distance. This gives a lot of pleasure in its youth, but you will be rewarded if you wait a few years for it to better integrate.
The elegance of this wine is key for me in considering whether to order more next year. It is extremely rare to find a 100% Grenache wine in California this elegant. The inevitable September heat wave causes sugars to spike and alcohol-levels to spin out of control, creating high-octane jammy fruit. The producers that are able to manage through this are worth seeking out.
Scott and Viquel Hawley released the first vintage of Torrin in 2006. You can order the wines through a two times per year 6-bottle wine club.
95 points.
