Singapore: Island Hopping
We’re six months into a lockdown and a part of me was itching to go somewhere. But the furthest I’ve travelled was to Sentosa, the land of Shrek’s castle, overpriced hotels and a handful of very packed beachside restaurants.
After months of the same old same old, the boys and I were ready to escape.
But here’s what we didn’t know: there are 63 offshore islands in Singapore. And as of now, you can visit 4 of these islands via sightseeing boats that depart regularly from the Marina Bay Cruise Centre.
We went on a trip to 3 of the islands recently and had a lovely time. Here’s what we learned:
- You can buy same day tickets at the cruise centre
The Marina Bay Cruise Centre is easily accessible via Marina South Pier MRT Station, and it has a large arrival / departures hall, a few stalls selling snacks and a small playground at the rooftop. Two ferry companies — Singapore Island Cruise and Marina South Ferries — that offer regular trips to the Southern Islands operate from here.
You can purchase tickets on site, but it is best to book online during the weekends. Once you get tickets, they will provide you with a list of ferry arrival / departure times for each island so you can island hop.
Take note: Ferries from Singapore Island Cruise aren’t the newest or the cleanest, and the boats pictured in the Marina South Ferries’ brochure look a lot nicer.
2. Ferries for Sisters’ Islands leave only on the weekends.
Since 2017, Sisters’ Islands have been designated as Singapore’s first marine park to better safeguard Singapore’s 98 acres of coral reefs, which are home to a vast variety of marine life. For instance, the Neptune’s Cup sponge, long thought to be extinct, was rediscovered in the area in 2011.
Today, the island is a place where conservation, education and research activities are carried out. Daytrippers can join free guided walks organized by NParks (which can be booked on their website), apart from swimming and snorkeling. The best time to come here is during the low tides, when the marine life would be visible.
There are also two dive trails of varying depths, so divers could better appreciate the biodiversity around the island. Unfortunately, you can only go there during the weekends, unless you charter a private boat.
3. St. John’s Island is the biggest island.
St. John’s is actually two islands rolled into one — and you can walk over to Lazarus Island, a lovely stretch of sandy bay that is more of a beach than an island.
The island has a fascinating history as a quarantine station: this was where you’d be shipped to if you contracted cholera, leprosy or beriberi in the late 19th century. The islands were then transformed into a penal settlement and a drug rehabilitation centre before it became what it is today — a bloody good getaway if you’re hankering for a change of scenery.
It is dotted with swimming lagoons, picnic grounds, beaches, walking routes, the Sisters’ Islands Marine Park Public Gallery, a small museum centered around the marine biodiversity in the area.
4. You’d need a full day.
Plan your trip in advance and around the ferry schedules.
The trip to St. John’s takes about 40 minutes each way. Most people start there, and wind up spending at least half a day before making their way to the smaller islands. The ferry service ends earlier on weekdays so the trip felt a little rushed, even though we hopped on the earliest boat and returned on the latest one. We could’ve easily stayed longer if not for the departure times — and our diminishing water supplies.
5. Bring plenty of supplies.
There are no shops or eateries on the islands — and only one small stand located inside the temple on Kusu Island selling drinks. But since that is almost always the last stop on anyone’s itinerary, be sure to bring plenty of food and water along.
There are plenty of shady spots with picnic benches, but it can get very, very hot on the beaches so pack a beach umbrella and a high SPF sunscreen too if you can!
6. You can stay overnight…but not during COVID-19.
There is a holiday bungalow and dormitory-style camps in St John’s Island with shared toilets and basic cooking facilities.
Some come equipped with beds and air-conditioning while others are just raised platforms, so you’ll have to lug your own sleeping bag — and also some cutleries, bowl, toiletries and towels as none are provided (basically, pack as if you would for a camping trip and you’ll be fine!). Prices are cheap, but rises sharply from Fridays to Sundays.
Ferry tickets are good for a return trip, so you don’t have to buy a separate ticket even if you plan on going back the next day.
7. Kusu Island is offers a glimpse of the local culture.
Kusu is a pretty offbeat destination — especially if you’re not familiar with East Asian customs and culture. Local folklore tells of a giant turtle who turned into an island to save two shipwrecked sailors — a Chinese and Malay man — who in turn built a Chinese temple and a Malay shrine on the island to show their gratitude.
The latter — with its Islamic elements and symbols— is a fascinating blend of two religions: Taoism and Islam (even though Islam strictly prohibits deity worship).
Most people come here to pray for love, children, and money (lots of 4D numbers are scribbled here) — and more recently, for a job or for the pandemic to be over. If you’re not at all superstitious, you can still visit the temple and ring the bell for fun instead of good luck, climb the hundred plus steps to the holy shrine perched eerily on top of a hill and of course say hello to the happy, well-fed tortoises who live there.
Kusu is a small island, so you’d need an hour here at most, unless you plan on picnicking or swimming there. The beaches here are quieter than St John’s, the waters seem cleaner and you have a view of the Singapore city skyline from here. However, the island’s tranquility is temporarily disrupted during the annual Kusu Festival — held on October this year — when pilgrims flock here by the dozens.
Note that the island is reserved for sprits so no overnight stays — at least for humans — are allowed!
8. You can travel by yacht — if you’re not seasick.
The last time I checked, there seemed to be about a dozen companies offering pretty much the same itinerary — clients charter a private yacht, spend a night docked on one of the islands, before waking up to a day of swimming and fun.
While there are many perks to having an island all to yourself, there are some drawbacks to consider. Yachts are smaller than or about the same size as a passenger ferry. I felt slightly nauseous during our 40 minute journey in a big ferry and shudder to think what it must be like in a smaller boat. Some anti-seasickness pills could come in handy if you’re anything like me.
Yachts are also a lot more expensive (about SGD250 per person as opposed to SGD15 on a return ferry), but prices are inclusive of meals (don’t expect a feast though) and a bed.
If you do decide on a yacht, be prepared for a swell time (both literally and figuratively). It will, however, make an interesting staycation compared to a regular ol’ hotel. Some yachts come with extra toys like kayaks and floating mats, others don’t, so be sure to check in advance.
Most importantly, have fun!
