The Evolving places to eat in Loreto Baja California Sur
by Ivette Granados
Over the last decade, Loreto has evolved tremendously as far as food is concerned. The arrival of more foreign residents to Loreto, as well as the high rate of national migration to Baja California Sur, has made the integration of new flavors almost obligatory.
Coupled with the arrival of new neighbors, new shops have opened that provide us a number of ingredients that were not typically used in regional cuisine (due to the difficulty and expense, historically, in getting foods to the peninsula).
On the other hand, some grocery and even neighborhood stores today cater to the influx of new customers and little by little they have expanded their offerings to include gourmet products, spices, grains and specialty foods that were not previously available here.
Loreto has a long tradition in the culinary celebration of its iconic ingredient, the “chocolate clam,” which is prepared in a myriad of forms. The typical, and clearly most popular dish, is “the tatemada clam.”
But we must not forget that fishing has always been an important activity also, so recipes based on fish of different species are also plentiful and delightful. In meat, “machaca” is a typical resource of the inhabitants of the sierra. Accompanied by refried beans, olives, and goat cheese, machaca can provide a great lunch to start the day.
The arrival of new consumers to Loreto has resulted in a quickly growing number and variety of restaurants. Each year new establishments open their doors, some eagerly received and others not so much.
At this point Loreto offers diners a wide variety of culinary experiences — traditional restaurants that offer regional cuisine, restaurants preparing traditional Mexican food (providing a “taste of home” from almost any state in the country), exotic “international” restaurants with offerings prepared lovingly by foreign chefs, and last but not least those restaurants that offer us a fusion of international and Mexican flavors seasoned with new trends and a bit of globalization.
It is important to mention two major drivers in the evolution of Loreto’s culinary offerings — the desire to protect the marine and terrestrial environment and the desire for eating a healthier diet.
Regulations regarding fishing seasons and sizes, protected species, the rules of our national park, the new methods of cultivation by local producers, the interests of ranchers in producing organic food, the scarcity of water, the rising rates of obesity in Baja California Sur, and the desire for healthier eating habits, have spurred the community of Loreto to reconsider centuries-old traditions and customs.
Today’s culinary offerings honor long-standing traditions, but also redefine “the pleasure of eating” in the context of modern-day Loreto.
