The Dying Delis of Los Angeles
Delis are dying. It’s happening all over Los Angeles. In the past ten years, the city has lost Junior’s in Westwood, Greenblatt’s in West Hollywood, Weiler’s in Northridge, Jerry’s in Studio City, Izzy’s in Santa Monica, Solley’s in Van Nuys, Billy’s in Glendale, Mort’s in Pacific Palisades, Victor’s in Hollywood, Label’s Table in the Pico-Robertson area and Wise Sons in Culver City. Nate ‘n Al’s in Beverly Hills was set to close in 2020 after 75 years in business until it was rescued at the last moment by music executive Irving Azoff. Canter’s Deli on Fairfax closed their dining room but stayed in business through takeout orders.
There are several reasons for the demise of Jewish delis. Delis are expensive to run. The main ingredient is beef and with rising food costs, customers now fork over $30 for a classic pastrami or corned beef sandwich. With cheap alternatives like Subway offering $5 sandwiches, delis are in a pickle.
There’s the factor of succession. Delis are often a family business and the sons and daughters of modern deli owners are less likely to follow in their parents’ footsteps. Jake Dell, a third generation deli man from Katz’s Deli in New York said, “After a while, you start to see delis disappear because there’s no one left to take over.”
Changing food trends have victimized delis. To a vegan or vegetarian, a fatty…
