Chasing Waterfalls on both sides of border
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Iguazu Falls sit right on the border of Brazil and Argentina, the river Iguazu literally carves the border between the two countries in this area. This in turn means you can visit the falls from either side, the Brazilian side makes up 20% of the waterfall whilst the rest sit on the Argentinian side. I started on Brazil side, fresh off the bus from Florianopolis before crossed the border into Argentina and visiting the opposite side the following day. Many people opt to only see one side but having done both I’m glad I did as each side offers an entirely different experience to this wonder of nature. In total, Iguazu Falls is formed of 275 Waterfalls and the amazing thing is that each of these unique in its appearance and scale. By no means did I see the full 275 and it also would have been impossible to count but even still what I did see was breathtaking.
The Brazilian side offers a zoomed out version at first glance, you look across to the Argentina side and are wowed by the scale of he first set of falls you see. Following a path along the river bed I was awed by the wildlife on display in addition to the falls themselves. The further you walk on this side the closer you get to the section known as ‘The Devils Throat’ at this point you can walk out on walkways to the middle of a plateau of sorts between two levels of that waterfall. So long as you’re prepared to be soaked it’s fantastic and given the heat, refreshing too!
I had been lead by my Lonely Planet to believe that crossing the border was very simple. Having got directions from the bus station in town, I hopped on the local international bus and asked to be dropped at the border, so I could be stamped out of Brazil and into Argentina. This seemed straightforward and when the border appeared I thanked they driver and made my way to Brazilian border control. They stamped me out and I then realised there were no signs for Argentina border control. I was essentially, in no mans land. Asking a policeman he informed me the Argentinian border was 2kms away and local international buses were hourly. Stranded on the border I sat and awaited the next bus. There were it seemed plenty of tourist buses passing but my ticket, being a local one was not valid on these tours ones. Eventually one of the drivers turned a blind eye and I got to the Argentinian border where I was stamped in. The tourist buses also wait whilst you are stamped in or out of each country so I would advise to take one of these as they are also more regular.
Steak in Puerto Iguazu
Arriving in the Argentinian town of Puerto Iguazu I began the shot walk to the hostel I had in mind, unfortunately, it and the other three I came across were all full so I settled for a private room for a couple of quid more on the Main Street. It seemed given the popularity of the falls, reservations are advised. Being my first night in Argentina I treated myself to a steak for dinner and wasn’t disappointed, if you’re after a reasonably priced meal and glass of wine I can recommend Terra, on the main high street just down from the bus station.
The following morning I was up and out to get my fill of the Argentinian side before catching the 6pm night bus to Buenos Aires. The Argentinian side has much more to see than the Brazilian and also offers a wider range of views and experiences, if you only plan to visit one side make it the Argentinian. Deciding to start where I left off I took the train to the Argentinian viewing point for Devils Throat and walked the walkways to get there. These offer great views of the top of the waterfall and the river before it begins to drop. It seemed crazy to see the same fall from the opposite side and it seem so different, one of the great things about the falls is the diversity of the views.
After making my way back to the main trail head I took the Inferior and Superior Trails, allowing me to get above and below some of the waterfalls. Each was breathtaking and I struggle to pull a favourite from my memory although the inferior trail that takes you right beneath one of the falls was certainly good fun even if it did drown my freshly written postcards!
Originally published at lucy.cbthbn.com & cbthbn.com
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