Reflections: Part 3
Reflecting Back on the Beginning of a Long Journey
“There’s an old folk tale about a logger they call Big Joe Mufferaw. A son of a voyageur, Big Joe was a real strong man of the Ottawa Valley. The old folks say that he paddled into the Mattawa all the way from Ottawa in just one day. I can assure you after today’s adventure that if this is indeed true, this Big Joe, Joseph Montferrand, must be one heck of a paddler.”
We began our third day along the Ottawa River expecting some heavy winds, but I don’t think we quite had in mind what was in store. We paddled the first hour or so with the wind at our backs, which makes for pleasant paddling — no current to fight, no scorching sun on your shoulders, and the odd splash to remind you the power and playfulness of the water. As the wind picked up, we decided to get a little adventurous. Gerald had whipped up a sail and mast made of rope, two small trees, and a tarp; an ingenious contraption which would have made the ancestors proud. We tossed the sail up, had Christina, Sam, myself and Will grab hold of the edges, and let the wind take us upstream.
We must have been a sight to see for anyone along the river’s edge who were lucky enough to catch a glimpse of a 36 foot voyageur canoe sailing through the river — not something you see every day, that’s for sure. It was quite the treat to be able to sit and relax in the canoe, to be able to face each other and have a discussion, to be able to eat lunch while still moving forward at 7km per hour. That being said, the Métis are known to be a competitive folk. Not a malicious competitiveness, but one which pushes for improvement through play. Though the winds pushed us forward at a reasonable pace, we couldn’t help but wonder how fast we could really go with our paddles in the water as well. As we counted each stroke of the paddle, we gained a speed of 12km per hour. The winds singing at our backs, the sail drumming to our front, and the waves dancing along our hands at each stroke — we became entrenched in the symphony of the environment surrounding us.
We continued on this way: one moment cruising through the waves, the next participating in the crescendo of the tailwind and waves. In a few hours, we managed to reach the narrows of the river. We braced ourselves as we approached our first set of rapids, but were swiftly turned in the opposite direction by the powerful waves. We moved to the river right, approaching the upstream from a new angle at a different narrow. With Zack, the other guide, as our gouvernaille, skillfully maneuvering our way through the rapids, and us all forcefully paddling in unison, we managed to make our way further upstream, resting in the eddies to gain enough strength for the next portion of the river. Unfortunately, with the high flooding this season, the latter part of the rapids proved too dangerous for us to cross without proper gear. We decided to ride the current we had just faced back to where we had begun in order to find an alternative location to portage.
As we re-entered the main vein of the river, now facing the waves and wind which once propelled as forward, we were given yet another challenge. But with the adrenaline from riding the rapids still pumping through our veins, we managed a speedy return to a point where we could dock our canoe until the next day of paddling. How Big Joe Mufferaw managed to canoe this river in one day is beyond me.
The road crew managed to have an interesting day as well, connecting with people along the river. We had intended on paddling to Portage du Fort, so the crew headed that way to prepare for our arrival. Alex met a Métis couple who lived there and they shared the story of the area. Portage du Fort dates back to the 1800s and it was a location the voyageurs used to portage. There were seven or eight portages to get around the river so the town grew, including a few depots and a Hudson Bay Post. Some of the stone homes built in the 1800s are still standing today, including the couple who Alex met. They were hoping to give us some coffee once we arrive, but alas, we’ll have to wait another day!
It was the first real rough day on the river, so all of us could feel the slight dizziness that comes after spending lots of time on the water. Though it might sound uncomfortable, I think it’s a beautiful way of feeling our connection with water to the core: Even when we are off of the river, the waters within us continue to move to the same flow, the same rhythm. Not only do we rely on the water for food, for transport, and for sustenance, but we are beings of water. Our wellness is interconnected with the wellness of the great waterways. We should honour these rivers as we honour ourselves.
Written by Courtney Vaughn
