The roots of this challenge lie in our ongoing efforts to reduce the human and environmental impact of the clothes we wear. Watching a screening of ‘The True Cost’ organised by the Centre for Confidence and Well-being in Glasgow was a turning point for me personally. The film exposes the hidden aspects of the fashion industry including some of the atrocities that the people who make clothes for the western market.
My first reaction to the film had been to stop buying new clothes altogether. However this is clearly unsustainable, and as various items in my wardrobe have become filled with holes I have looked at how I can ethically repair or replace them.
Slowly I have begun to discover clothing companies whose values I share and whom I trust. These are companies that are transparent about their supply chain and the materials they use, companies who are open and honest about the impacts of their activities. With this project I hoped to better understand the skills employed to make the clothes that I wear.
So, making a t-shirt then…
The question now becomes not ‘who made your clothes?’, but ‘who made your fabric?’ For this project I sourced fabric from the excellent Raystitch in London. I am using an organic cotton which is milled, woven, and printed in India for Birch Fabrics.
Keira has made me a t-shirt previously — crafting the pattern by measuring a few of my favourite existing t-shirts. So luckily there was no need for pattern making as part of this challenge. Using the pattern I set to work pinning, marking and cutting the various shapes needed for the garment. Working with fabric (in this case jersey — very stretchy!) has been a learning experience. For someone more used to working with wood, metal and other solid materials — being comfortable with the way the fabric moved and stretched as I handled it was challenging. With much relief, I managed to cut all of the shapes without veering too far from the pattern.
With the fabric cut I moved on to pinning the various parts of the t-shirt together (front and back panels first) and then (big step) — over to the sewing machine. I once sewed some felt shoes for a puppet I had as a child, but otherwise my sewing experience is pretty minimal. Feeling pretty daunted I followed expert instruction to wind the bobbin and thread the needle. Fabric in position under the needle I gingerly pressed down on the foot pedal and I was off!
I’m not going to pretend that using the machine was easy, it wasn’t. It took all my concentration (and frequent pauses, some swearing but thankfully no blood) to stitch the various seams of the t-shirt. It was however extremely satisfying to see the machine whirring away mechanically, joining the pieces of fabric with brightly coloured thread.
More pinning followed on the neck and hems. Again it was a mental challenge to be comfortable with how much the fabric wanted to move as I positioned pins to hold the pieces vaguely where I wanted them. More playing with the mechanical wizardry of the sewing machine and I was holding a newly finished t-shirt!
The process of making my own t-shirt was extremely satisfying and I am fortunate to have access to a sewing machine and someone to teach me how to use it. However making my own clothes will never fully replace my need to buy clothing. Learning to work with fabric has given me greater respect for those who do this professionally. I value their skills highly and will always look to buy clothing from manufacturers who share this view.
If you would like to better understand the clothing industry I would highly recommend watching The True Cost.
Fashion Revolution is also a great resource and campaign bringing people together to make change.
