Appetite for Change
As protesters marched nationwide demanding justice and the end of police brutality against black communities, companies scrambled to prepare statements of their solidarity for the Black Lives Matter movement. And so, the emails began clogging up my inbox with subject title variations: Black Lives Matter, In Solidarity, Demand Justice, and more. I promptly deleted emails from companies I already knew had C-Suites full of old white men.
I paused at Bon Appétit’s email titled “Food Has Always Been Political” as a fan and foodie, I was curious to see what editor-in-chief Adam Rapoport had to say. From the first sentence, I felt uneasy. Rapoport rhetorically asked the audience how Bon Appétit would cover the protests as if police brutality was another social media trend to jump on. Rapoport continued by asking how can Bon Appétit incorporate black narratives in the food industry into its publications. Rapoport spent 7 paragraphs showcasing the magazine's actions in the last week. Meanwhile, he spent 2 sentences reflecting on the magazine’s internal culture.
I saw the letter as performative and attempting to be newsworthy. Rapoport’s letter didn’t tackle any of the issues that sparked the protests: police brutality, racism, the killing of innocent lives. Instead, he stated food is political yet didn’t expand on the ways in which food as been a political tool used by black and brown communities. Thus, the letter was also whitewashed and tone-deaf.
Then the water boiled over.
A photo of Adam Rapoport wearing brown-face went viral.
Ex and current BIPOC (Black, Indigenous, People of Color) employees of Bon Appétit shared their stories of hostile work environments, unequal pay, lack of opportunities for professional growth, and more. Condé Nast denied the claims of BIPOC employees even as the evidence grew. A big mistake. Audiences are more willing to boycott brands for their actions than ever before, this is especially true for Millennials and Gen Z consumers which happen to be the most diverse generations in U.S history.
Then came the second email: “A Long-Overdue Apology, and Where We Go From Here.” Written by the Bon Appétit staff, the letter attempted to take responsibility for the magazine's history of racism and address its plans for the future. The letter acknowledged my feelings from the letter written by Rapoport, it stated “At times we have treated non-white stories as “not newsworthy” or “trendy. Other times we have appropriated, co-opted, and Columbused them.” The staff letter promised to prioritize the hiring of a new editor-in-chief who is a person of color but that’s not enough. People of color and their allies want more than false promises. We want companies to do their research and to educate themselves in order to create a truly inclusive culture.
The Black Lives Matter movement is focused on black individuals because they’re historically the most disadvantaged group due to systemic racism. When justice is reached for black communities, other communities of color will organically see their own justice come to fruition. Bon Appétit has built a successful digital platform through its viral YouTube videos and their website, unfortunately, on the backs of underrepresented staff of color. I and many fans of color are holding our breaths, waiting to see if Bon Appétit’s commitment is true to diversity is true. The magazine’s reputation is on the line and the only option to retain its BIPOC fans is hiring its first black editor-in-chief.
