“Eclipse of You”, Ann Demeulemeester SS24 vinyl record is available in a limited edition of 100 copies, and how the new creative director Stefano Gallici reinvigorate Antwerp-aesthetic in the age of digital?
“For me black is not dark, it’s poetic. I don’t think of gothic I think of classic — it’s a big difference.”
Black is a consistent theme in Ann Demeulemeester. It’s hard to imagine a brand’s whole instagram page is black and white, including most of its digital content. But this is dangerous, it could cause fatigue in audiences’ attention, when all they consume is a black-and-white aesthetic.
How to sell a consistent aesthetic in the age of digital, where things are always changing and people’s attention is so hard to grasp? In response to Gen-Z, fashion houses either tap into pop culture for relatable references or duplicate easy-to-wear pieces for earned media on social media platforms such as Pinterest, Instagram, or TikTok.
Ready-to-wear has become easy-to-wear.
“I want to put a soul in a garment. I don’t want my clothes to be perfect, because human beings are not perfect.”
The internet has taken by Maison Margiela Artisanal 24 lately, as it’s a tribute to Paris in the 20s. The glamour, the vulgar, the Fleur de Mal as Charles Baudelaire described. Pat McGrath’s artisanal makeup incorporate the classical La Belle Epoque aesthetic and a theatrical modern twist. And this is what got the internet talking. Bold, exciting, memorable.
But Stefano clearly approach the digital age differently with Ann. He released the limited edition vinyl record of the runway music, months after the show. The design is again black-and-white. It’s quiet, exclusive, and effortless. Everything against the internet.
Even though the vinyl record was greatly received by its fans, it did not stir attention in the industry or catch the public’s eye. Is it because we are no longer equipped to appreciate the quiet? But what about quiet luxury which was hyped earlier? Or it is we need aggressive promotion in order to notice the quiet? But isn’t it against the purpose of quiet? Then does it mean in order to be successful in the age of digital, brands like Ann should have a stronger internet presence? Posting daily? Collaborating with influencers? Doing lower-end market? Catering to Gen-Z? Being easy-to-wear?
The answer is definitely NO.
Avant-garde fashion brands are supposed to lead the industry, the public, the landscape. Not vice versa. By ditching the conventional approach of marketing in the digital landscape, Stefano is keeping the essence of Ann. Instead, he is using a similar approach as the “Apple Ecosystem”, where everything is interconnected under Ann’s aesthetic.
Our communities influence our decisions.
Ann’s community is mostly avant-garde fashion enthusiasts who favors a quiet, independent, and gender-fluid identity, which works hand-in-hand with vinyl record and the ethereal sounds of music “Eclipse of You”. Of course the release of vinyl record strengthens the brand’s consistent identity and the exclusiveness of the record accentuates the “high-end” aspect of the designer brand. Ann and Stefano do not care about trends, lower-end market, and influencers. Although it sounds paradoxical, they actually maintains loyal customers as those delicate “cult members” enjoy being “elite” and “not convention or mainstream”. They enjoy being called “different”. So in a way, Ann is still catering to its audiences, just not in the mainstream way.
“I’ve always been intrigued by cutout silhouettes. They are so intriguing, so poetic-the shadow of a soul. They tell everything about a character and they are open to be filled with one’s own imagination.”
Another beautiful thing Ann and Stefano do with content is leaving room for imagination and interpretation.
No words. Buzz sounds. Lo-fi.
In the age of digital where information explodes, Ann reverses the mentality. Little information. Bigger thoughts. Good content is not only about leads, but more importantly, education.
The video leaves the audiences wondering: “What is this?” Not: “Ohh, another content…” Ambiguity triggers curiosity, and curiosity leads to attention. This is how Ann manages the digital world.
Ann’s muse, punk poet, Patti Smith, talked about losing her voice in today’s pop culture and how to regain mainstream recognition through social media. She started posting instagram photos about her daily life and they were well-received.
It is easy to leave an impression, but what Ann’s heritage, her muse Patti, and the new creative director Stefano do is to leave a memorable impression. Might not be eye-catching, but enough to trigger curiosity.
This is Ann Demeulemeester, an avant-garde fashion brand still manage to do digital content an avant-garde way. Might be a little experiment. But seems to be another solution for brands to navigate the digital world. Let the time tell.
