Helsinki — where Design, Art and Technology meet
The most Northern capital is famous for saunas, art and its stunning nature. Since Nokia, Helsinki became a technology hub too and attracts thousands of visitors for tech-events, such as Slush. To get the most out of the city, without spending your entire travel budget in one day? Here’s a guide.
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Before the Finnish capital became my second home, I had no image about this city — except that it was somewhere in Scandinavia and expensive. The intersection of contemporary art, technology and design, functionalism, sauna and forests — that is Helsinki for me by now. And most importantly, it is not Scandinavia, it is a Nordic city. If you mind cold, rainy weather, visit this beauty during summertime, from May till August it is quite romantic. If you want to see a winter wonderland, come here from December to February. That is the time, when the city’s space expands onto the frozen sea and coffees, diners and other places are open on the ice.
Sauna
There are more saunas than people in Finland. Almost every residential building offers its tenants a sauna. Finns do not mind nudity, people usually go in saunas naked. There’s a saying that “people sweating together won’t do shit to each other”.
Kulttuuri Sauna (Hakaniemenranta 17, 00530) — the ultimate sauna experience, or the Disneyland of saunas. Run by a Japanese-Finnish couple, this sauna is heated by wood. The atmosphere is best described like a mix of minimalist architecture and a natural spa. If you bring your own towels it gets a bit cheaper, and if you bring swimsuits you can jump into the sea in between.
Sompasauna (Sompasaaren laituri, 00540) — next to the coal piles of the Kallio power plant, you find this free of charge sauna. It is one of the most random places in town, where strangers meet. After sauna you can jump into the sea for refreshment. To quote S. “One has to have balls to try it out, but hey — we only live once.”
Löyly Helsinki (Hernesaarenranta 4, 00150) — this place recently opened and the building is a good example for contemporary Finnish architecture using natural materials. The sauna itself is rather expensive and mostly crowded, yet the restaurant also invites you for having some overpriced cake or drink. Yet, if you are into this kind of buildings, like me, you should definitely pay it a visit.
Places to VISIT
If you are reading this you are probably a non-Helsinki resident, interested in the town, or planning a trip there. Helsinki is one of the greenest cities I have ever experienced. There are forests within walking distance anywhere in town. Besides you find functional architecture from 30s till the 80s, and daring modern housing projects all around town. The best and cheapest way is to walk around town and taking tram or metro for getting to certain places. Tip: Get a travel card (5€) from K-market and charge it some 10€, this will normally be enough.
Eira (Helsinki) — a super white/rich peoples district next to the seashore. However, the architecture (semi-neoclassical, 80s and ultra-modern) makes this a perfect spot to start a walk along the shore. You pass by many coffee houses too, in case you want to have a break from all the walking.
DISCLAIMER: For avoiding confusion — “S” is the name of my partner.
Kiasma (Mannerheiminaukio 2, 00100) — is the contemporary art museum of Finland. Besides hosting an astonishing collection, the building itself is a masterpiece of modern architecture by Steven Holl. Admission is free on the first Friday of every month.
This is what S. thinks about the museum: “is a contemporary art museum that most of the people would claim you should visit. The place mostly works as a large gallery, often showing new works rather than a collection of previously exhibited art. A new curator was hired recently and some positive changes are expected. However a previous curator drove the place off the hill and since the current shows were still planned earlier — they are pretty intolerable.”
HAM Helsinki Art Museum (Eteläinen Rautatiekatu 8, 00100) — with over 9.000 pieces the modern art collection offers a unique glimpse into the artistic soul of Finland. As a special offer some exhibitions are always free of charge! Also intreresting use of space, as the museum is on top of a mall.
This is what S. thinks about the museum: “At times has interesting works on display. Some big names like Ai Wei Wei, for example. If you want to visit “an art show” (without much preference) during the time in Helsinki — it is a good place to do so.”
Helsinki City Museum (Aleksanterinkatu 16, 00170) — has a free-entrance small show in the very centre on the Senate Square. An interactive display telling about the city history. Your chance for some good selfies in a replica of a 1960s old lady flat. On the first floor, perhaps, the best souvenir store you will find in town. On the last floor — temporary shows connected to Helsinki. Drop by for about an hour. It’s good for groups too. There is a very fixed list of the museums within the city area and this is one you should not miss.
Temppeliaukion Church (Lutherinkatu 3, 00100) — an underground dome turned into concert venue. You should check out, whether any concerts are held at this unique location, with its circular walls and glass dome ceiling.
Metro Stop Tunnel University of Helsinki (00100 Helsinki) — just a fun place to walk through. There are always highly skilled musicians performing during the day.
Kallio Church (Itäinen Papinkatu 2, 0053) — one of the handful of landmarks in Helsinki. This very dystopian looking church should be visited while strolling around Kallio.
Suomenlinna (00190 Helsinki) — taking the ferry to Suomenlinna is an experience itself. Once you arrived, you can walk around this chain of islands for hours. There are also some art galleries one can visit and enjoy some good pies. We like to go there during the warmer months of the year, just to chill and relax.
Pohjolan pirtti (Lammassaari, 00560) — is a long walk across swamplands. People go there to watch birds, or just hang out in nature. At the end of Vantaa river there is an old hydro-power plant turned into museum, its free of charge and lets you explore the site on your own.
If you go there take some snack and water with you, and at
According to S. “its one of the sweetest walks”.
Seurasaari (00250 Helsinki) is an island with a sanctuary forest and old Finnish wooden architecture along the main road. (collected from around the country). You can spend the whole day walking there.
S. took me on one of our first dates in Helsinki there, here is his recommended route to walk:
“Maybe start at the old cemetery at Lappinlahti. Then walk along the water (all the time) until you reach Regatta cafe. Get some warm drink and continue walking towards Seurasaari. Then get another warm drink when you get to the island. Then when you are leaving tired and happy — take a bus back.”
Talvipuutarha (Hammarskjöldintie 1 A, 00250) — is a free of charge green house. You can go there during winter time and still feel warm. A hidden gem, right next to the bay — especially when you’re missing sun.
Coffee Houses
Since I was writing parts of my thesis in Helsinki, the places I stayed at needed to have fast wifi, sockets, nice atmosphere with the sea closeby and preferably good (vegan) cakes. This is what I came up with.
Birgitta (Hernesaarenranta 2, 00150) — is this tiny, super homey glass coffee house next to the sea side. You can sit outside on the terrace or simply enjoy their cakes and teas next to the open fire place indoor. Make sure you try their caramel, nut, chocolate cake!
Rupla (Helsinginkatu 16, 00500) — in the heart of Kallio, the former workers’ district, this place is a mashup of everything. Second hand store, coffee house, diner, art space and donation centre — all in one artsy location. On the weekends you can enjoy brunch there, with a large number of vegan raw cakes. Make sure you ask for the cake brunch special!
Bergga (Viides linja 14, 00530) — right next to Kallio church, you find this lovely coffee house/diner. On the weekends they serve brunch and if you are lucky there are music performances on Saturday afternoon/evening.
Places to work
If you are like me, I enjoy writing, reading or working some hours abroad too. For that I normally look for unique places where architecture is persuasive and sockets are available.
Postitalo (00100 Helsinki) — is a typical functional 30s buildings. Previously been the HQ of the Finnish postal services, today it is the ideal place to work:Japanese/Finnishn coffee house, wifiand surrounded by statues, tall ceilings and typical 30s functionalism.
Töölö Library (Topeliuksenkatu 6, 00250) — this location recently reopened after being completely refurbished. The building was designed in the 70s and now offers light hallways, staircases and terraces to work and study.
Sanomatalo (Töölönlahdenkatu 2, 00100) — is a publishing company, which has its HQ in downtown Helsinki. Besides the astonishing interior, its entrance halls are publically accessible and regularly host free of charge exhibitions.
Food
Food is generally not cheap in Finland, unless you are a visitor from Oslo, Stockholm or Copenhagen. However, over time I found some places that serve affordable (below and around 10€ per dish) good quality food, and offers a special experience.
Soma Sushiburrito Makkaratalo (Kaivokatu 10, 00100) — is a small street food place right next to the railway station. It serves delicious sushiburritos, as well as vegan and vegetarian options too. Besides tasting incredibly well, the diner looks like some sterile minimalist lab.
New Bamboo Center (Annankatu 29, 00100) — cheerful, loud and very friendly. I have never seen a more chaotic, yet cheerful place. Bamboo Center is one those places where menu is incredibly long, but everything is cooked fresh. Check out their lunch and dinner menu options, as they’re much cheaper than regular dishes. Definitely worth a visit — an experience!
Tenho Restobar (Helsinginkatu 15, 00500) — a “typical” hipster place in Kallio. It serves fusion pizza and pasta, while playing soft rock or experimental rock through the speakers. If you come in the evening make sure you reserve a table!
Soi Soi (Vaasankatu 9, 00500) — right in the heart of Kallio, this little vegetarian/vegan Burger place is perfect, if you are craving greasy, yet vegetarian food. Make sure you try their sweet potato fries!!
Barbarossa Pizza & Kebab (Yrjönkatu 29, 00100) — is a pizza-kebab place hidden in the very centre of the city. 5€ will get you vegetarian falafel or a large pizza with all the standard toppings. Barbarossa’s is an experience by itself.
