The Fascinating History of Ankara Fabric (African Wax Print) in West Africa
M y mother’s box holds colours. Yellows and reds and oranges and blues and colours with names I do not know grace tastefully patterned Abada fabrics. Each fabric is folded meticulously. Each fabric is accorded respect. On Sunday mornings, she picks one to go with a lace blouse and ichafu isi (headscarf) and like fragile beings, they are folded back into the safety of the box after church. From childhood, I have associated these fabrics with home and I hope to inherit some of my mother’s wrappers someday.
During my NYSC in Ogun State, wearing Ankara on all the days of the week was the norm. On the days I wore jeans and t-shirts or single-coloured gowns, I was the odd one out. In the town I lived in, the afternoon sky was often vivid blue and the sparse houses and domineering trees was a fitting backdrop for the bright fabrics that the people wore.
I have always been drawn to colour and owning Ankara fabric satisfies that yearn in me. Even though I like black and white pictures, I feel a certain discontent when the vibrancy of Ankara fabric is dulled using that effect. Also, the various colours and patterns of these fabrics remind me of the beauty and intricacy that human beings are capable of. And with the things I find beautiful and intricate, I am eager to learn their origin.
Indonesian Roots
During my research, I was surprised to find that the Batik method of creating wax prints is of Indonesian origin.
The word ‘Batik’ originated from (the) Javanese word “amba” which means writing and “titik” which means (dot). Initially, Batik was made on the calico, using liquid wax in a canting (small dipper used to apply wax in Batik process)…Batik patterns also have meaning and symbolize something. There are numerous (types) of Batik in Indonesia, such as Batik Solo, Batik Pekalongan, Batik Cirebon, Batik Banyumas, Batik Bali, and many more…
For more on Indonesian fabrics; 7 Best Indonesian Traditional Fabrics
As I researched, I learned that there are certain aspects of Indonesian fashion that is closely mirrored in African fashion. For instance, they have their version of Akwete which is called Ulos and Adire which is called Sasirangan.
Also, the earliest history of Batik dates back to 4th century BC Egypt where it was used in the mummification process (if you look back far enough, everything started in Africa lol.) Till date though, it is most highly developed in Java, Indonesia.
Dutch Impact
Before Dutch colonisation of Indonesia, Batik was primarily made and sold in Indonesia and other parts of Asia. During the Dutch colonization of Indonesia (1800- 1945), the production of wax print was impacted and through this, it became accessible to West Africans.
The pioneers of wax print in the Netherlands got a hold of Indonesian Batik as early as 1850. Seeing its worth, they began working on a machine that could duplicate the effect of Batik. They hoped their version would outsell the Indonesian Batik in the Indonesian market and after producing some resin-coated Batik fabrics, they tried to sell them in the Indonesian market. It failed to garner the desired sales because it did not match up to the real Batik in quality or have the distinguishing wax smell that the Indonesian Batik fabrics had.
Acceptance of Wax Print In Nigeria and West Africa
By 1880, Dutch and Scottish traders began introducing the fabrics to the ports in West Africa and here, they found success. Research suggests that this success might have in part, been due to the fashion taste of the “Black Dutchmen” — a group of West African Dutch soldiers called Belanda Hitam in Indonesia who served between 1831 and 1872 in the Dutch colonising army of Indonesia and later retired to Elmina, modern-day Ghana.
Some of the fabrics were given different names based on their patterns and those names still hold till today. Two popular ones are Kri-Kri star (tiny stars) and Mkpuru Oka (corn seeds). These fabrics are worn by different cultural and religious sects in West Africa and seeing a group of people in a certain fabric connotes that an event or gathering might be taking place. For the Catholic Women Organisation in some parts of Igbo land, the Mkpuru Oka Abada fabric or the CWO uniform (also made of customized Ankara fabric) is worn to attend wakes and a member may be fined if she fails to wear hers to such a gathering.
This uniformity in dressing has also become a cultural staple amongst many tribes in Nigeria and West Africa. In many Yoruba weddings, burial ceremonies, birthday celebrations and so on, Asoebi — which is usually an Ankara print fabric, is worn to commemorate and show unity at these events.
I have a somewhat sentimental theory concerning our eager acceptance of wax print and our subsequent appropriation of it. This theory has much to do with the mutual experience of colonisation and similarities in cultural fashion tastes in Indonesia, Nigeria and other parts of West Africa. It is half-baked so I won’t share it here.
Wax Print Production In Present Day
Till date, the highest grade of wax prints (Vlisco) being sold in Africa is of Dutch origin. The popular and affordable Hi-target is of Chinese origin. There are a few African brands such as DaViva in Nigeria and Sotiba Simpafric in Dakar, Senegal that sell quality fabrics.
For more on African Wax Print companies; Know Your Wax and Top 15 Textile Companies in Nigeria
In all my research, I could not find the exact reason why it is called Ankara. I did see though, that Ankara is the name of the method used in the making of the materials in some parts of Africa.
The only other Ankara I found is the capital of Turkey and researching this place showed no connection to the fabric. If you know why it is called Ankara and you are willing, please share this information in the comments below.
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