The Intricate History of Akwete Fabric In Nigeria
The first time I heard of Akwete was from Chief Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie. She was speaking at an Igbo Conference and the title of her speech was Igbo bu Igbo and being the intentional person I think her to be, her beautiful yellow pants were made of Akwete fabric.
When she spoke about it being a Nigerian-made fabric, my interest in it grew and so did my pride in what we (Nigerians, and Africans) are capable of. I wrote about the history of Ankara fabric because it intrigued me and it is also my reason for writing about the history of Akwete fabric.
Origin
The fabric is local to Akwete, Abia State, Eastern Nigeria. It is primarily made by the people of Ndoki town of Akwete in Ukwa East Local Government Area of Abia State. The first record of its production was said to be in the mid-19th century and it was introduced to the community by the legendary weaver, Dada Nwakata.
Weaving and Apprenticeship
When I first saw Akwete fabric, it reminded me of Ghanaian Kente, so I researched the link between them. Like in the relationship between Batik and Ankara as explored in the Ankara fabric article (You should read it if you haven’t), Kente is the Ghanaian version of Akwete and is produced with the same technique.
The weaving of the fabric has always been and is still being done by women. Older women are known to favour this trade as it gives them an outlet for their creativity and the spool can easily be set up in their backyards or verandahs.
The weaving and trade are also passed down from these older women to their younger female relatives.
Cultural Meaning of Patterns
Generally, the Akwaete fabric signifies strength, power, and vitality amongst the Akwaete people of Abia state.
The fabrics, however, do come in different motifs that are worn for different occasions and signify differences in social statuses in some cases.
In terms of trade with other cultures, a commonly traded cloth was “Awka Miri” (Cloth of the water) translating to “towel”. It was woven as either a white cloth or a white cloth with indigo stripes.
“Tortoise” or “Ikaki” is the most commonly produced motif and pattern. The main motif, ikaki, imagined as a tortoise here, is based on Ijebu Yoruba prestige cloth, Aso-olona. Traditionally, it was created solely for royalty; and anyone who wore Ikaki that was not royal would be sold into slavery.
This motif used the image of the tortoise, viewed as a wise and cunning creature symbolic of chieftaincy. It was also used for coronations and royal burials. It additionally represented peace. Ikaki itself has subcategories of motifs, Ikaki’s tortoise motif is the first and original pattern.
The second is called Blandgidi or Plandigi “blanket” and contains a background with a solid color decorated with repeated flowers, flags, birds, or animals.
Akwete Weaving in Present Day
In the present day, there have been quite a few advancements regarding the production of Akwaete fabric. People of any gender and culture can learn how to produce the fabric so long as they have an interest in it.
The fabric can also be purchased in any motif you want regardless of what it used to signify culturally. (Some Igbo communities still understand and hold on to the cultural significance, however)
In Nigeria, while its birthplace remains Akwaete, Abia state, it is now popularly produced in Enugu, Ebonyi, and Benue states.
In Ebonyi state, the Ekwueme Federal University established a centre focused on Akwete weaving as well as a year’s worth Akwete weaving course.
The university also encourages students to wear Akwete cloth on “Traditional Dress Mondays” and gives the best-woven pieces produced at the centre to important visitors as gifts.
In Modern Fashion
Akwete has been featured in many fashion publications and houses and has been used to make different kinds of clothing — trousers, gowns, suits, wrappers, you name it.
The fabric's sturdiness makes it an excellent choice for tailored clothing items and its durability ensures that it can be passed down from generation to generation within families.
I hope to one day visit Akwete, Abia state, and learn more about how the fabric is made and possibly learn to weave as well. If I do, I will share my experience here so make sure to follow Mbili Journal to stay updated.
For more on African fashion, culture, and history, and to shop unique Adire and Batik outfits, follow Mbili Fashion on Instagram.
