Fighting Slavery Misconceptions
(Lecompton, KS) As America struggles with the remnants of slavery and its racist past, one tiny town in eastern Kansas has a bigger challenge than most. Situated on the Southern banks of the lazy and winding Kanas River, Lecompton is nestled in wooded rolling hills only 50 miles west of Kansas City, MO. With less than 600 full-time residents, this village could have easily faded from memory as have so many small rural towns across this vast middle region of the country. Yet this town’s current citizens, backed by five generations of extensive family archives and oral histories, have, against all odds, managed to keep Lecompton metaphorically and literally on the map of US History.
In the 1850’s Lecompton was one of the most discussed towns in American politics. It was mentioned no less than 55 times in the famous Lincoln-Douglas debates in 1858 leading up to the pivotal election of 1860, which saw Abraham Lincoln elected to his first term as President. Lecompton also gave its name to a faction called the anti-Lecompton Party which splintered the Democrats in Congress. This was the split that ultimately began to pave the tortuous road towards the end of slavery.
As America began to rapidly spread west towards her destiny with the Pacific, the issue of slavery was a major dividing point between those who opposed the evils of slavery on moral grounds and those who had specific commercial interests built on the theft of human labor. By 1854, with the passage of the Kansas-Nebraska Act, huge swaths of untamed land were opened for settlement, with the fertile farmlands just across the river from Missouri especially prized.
One of the first settlements officially established was the town of Bald Eagle in 1854, which soon was renamed Lecompton and became the capitol of the new Kansas Territory in 1855. At the time, Lecompton was one of the largest towns west of the Missouri River.
For a variety of political reasons, mostly related to the issue of slavery, both the citizens in the Territory of Kansas and powerful monied and political interests in Washington, were pushing hard to bring the new territory into the Union as the State of Kansas. Towards that goal, a convention was called in Lecompton to draft a constitution for approval by territorial citizens and to apply to the US Congress for admission as a State. (Constitution Hall still exists to this day in Lecompton as a Kansas State Historical Site where one can actually walk through this important piece of US History and see detailed historical exhibits).
What became known as the Lecompton Constitution was written as a pro-slavery document and would have seen Kansas, like Missouri, admitted to the Union as a slave state. And thus the racist rub, historically, that continues to this day to impact the current people of Lecompton as they protect their historic legacy while building a really beautiful and interesting day trip travel destination.
To paint the town of Lecompton and its current residents as pro-slavery or racist in any way is just not true and certainly not based on historical documentation. In matter of fact, just the opposite is true.
Walking the Streets of Lecompton
When one visits Lecompton today, one has the chance to meet and talk with fifth and sixth generation descendants of the original Kansas settlers. These are kin of families who first came in the 1850’s and have stayed and, in some cases, worked the same land for over 160 years. Many trace their heritage to the very first German immigrants to North America. Some came from the poor side of Virginia (now the State of West Virginia). A large majority were highly religious people opposed to slavery on simple moral grounds. Virtually all were farmers looking for better land. None of them had the resources it would take to buy another human for slave labor (which would have cost about $50,000 in today’s money), thus none had any connection to nor financial interest in slavery as an institution.
The people one meets in chance encounters in the local stores, the coffee shop, the wine bar, or at local historical gatherings are all adamant- their families never supported slavery. They can document that the pro-slavery constitution was only approved by illegal votes cast by thousands of men coming in from Missouri to stuff the ballot boxes. Yet the Kansas people of this little town remain labeled in some minds as racist, an untrue image that is hard to shake in today’s politically sensitive times.
The Missouri Connection
The primary discussion of slavery and emancipation was always framed in moral terms, which is clear to us today . However, in the 1850’s some felt they had a religious right to own those who they saw as racially inferior and who they believed were given the implied right to own by the US Constitution. This was all, of course, just a fancy smoke screen to cover what was, in reality, just the commercial interests of only a few. (Slavery was, in today’s financial terms, a multi-billion dollar industry, the majority of which was controlled by a very tiny percentage of the white landowning population).
The two new territories of Kansas and Nebraska were huge and stretched west all the way to the summit of the Rocky Mountains and north to what is now Canada. Part of the creation of these two new territories was the introduction into law of what was called ‘Popular Sovereignty’. This was designed to allow the citizens of each new state to decide the question of slavery for themselves and to potentially allow the specter of legal slavery to spread westward across the continent and reach further north into the new areas that would soon be organized and opened. The new settlers, the legal citizens of Kansas, were overwhelmingly opposed to slavery and adamant that it had to be stopped from moving any further across the continent. But, the monied slaveholding interests in the established slave State of Missouri felt they could not allow a non-slave state on their western border. They also very much wanted to see slavery spread further west and north into the new lands and did not want slavery to be stopped in Kansas. The legal citizens of Kansas overwhelmingly voted against slavery, but the thousands of illegal votes from Missouri won. Thus the pro-slavery constitution passed, only to be rejected by the thinest of margins in the US House of Representatives, which sent the matter back to Kansas for another vote by the people.
Bleeding Kansas
As the political discussion continued, passions raged on both sides of the slavery question, and an ugly and incredibly violent episode in American history exploded in 1854. The horrid, unrestricted guerrilla warfare called Bleeding Kansas raged for seven years, and remains the single most violent conflict ever fought on American soil, surpassed only by the American Civil War in 1861. Towns were burned, whole families executed and atrocities were committed. Cross border rampage, murder and looting raids were common. Both sides felt they were right and were willing to kill and destroy to prove it. This sad episode is seen by many was a very real prelude to the American Civil War, which followed.
By 1858 and through the years of bloodshed, the legal citizens of Kansas, including those in Lecompton, overwhelmingly rejected the pro-slavery constitution when they had a chance to vote on it again without illegal outside manipulation. They voted in favor of a free state constitution and moved towards full statehood in 1861, thus, in effect, halting slavery’s westward momentum four years before Lincoln’s Emancipation Proclamation. Were these people racist, pro-slavery or anti-black? The clear answer is overwhelmingly no. These people should be celebrated.
Lecompton Today
More so than almost anywhere else in America outside of the preserved historic districts of Boston, Charleston, Philadelphia and Williamsburg, one can walk the streets of Lecompton and walk where history happened. However, unlike most other historic American cities, one does not have to deal with high prices, crowded streets and traffic. In addition, if one is patient and seeks out local historical resources, one can actually talk with knowledgeable descendants of those who first settled the area.
It is these people and their forebears who had the wisdom to preserve documents and to save this history for us today. These people are proud of their town and proud of the part their ancestors played in American history to help put a stop to slavery. It is rare to find anywhere in today’s busy world where life is uncrowded and slows down enough where people can appreciate a real living past. It seems as if the whole town knows their history and is very proud to be part of that past.
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Territorial Capitol Museum and Lane University
When going to Lecompton for the first time, be sure to visit the Territorial Capital Museum and Lane University. This beautifully restored stone building was meant to be the first capitol of Kansas and is filled with three levels of artifacts from pre-Civil War America, including original maps, weapons, household implements, farm equipment, photos, letters, and Congressional speeches from this tumultuous past era.
One can also see the chapel where President Dwight Eisenhower’s parents were married in 1885. If requested, one can take a personal tour with Paul Bahnmaier, who is a great storyteller and has led the Lecompton Historical Society for more than 40 years. Bahnmaier is extremely knowledgeable about local history and the important role that Lecompton played in America’s past.
To stop by, just follow the signs to Lecompton from the Lecompton Exit off Interstate 70, about 20 miles east of Topeka and just west of Lawrence. The Territorial Capital Museum is open Wednesday to Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and on Sunday from 1–5 p.m. Donations appreciated. To schedule a guided tour, please call (785) 887–6148.
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Kansas Constitution Hall State Historic Site
Also be sure to see Constitution Hall at 319 Elmore Street. This Kansas State Historic Site is only two blocks from the Territorial Capital Museum, and is well worth an extended visit. Situated in the fully restored location where this important history actually happened, this is the oldest wood frame building in Kansas still standing on its original property. Site Administrator Tim Rues is an expert on pre-Civil War and Bleeding Kansas history. His guided visitor tours through the displays are extremely interesting and a real treat. Constitution Hall is open Wednesday to Saturday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and on Sunday from 1–5 p.m. For more information, please call (785) 887–6520.
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Shopping and Eating on Elmore Street
After touring Constitution Hall, walk down Elmore Street just half a block and see for yourself why Lecompton was voted the Best Small Town in Kansas. Drop in at 338 Elmore to see Cindy at Claymama’s and her collection of unique handmade crafts, clothing and jewelry. Cindy’s extended family were among the first settlers in the area. Feel free to ask questions.
Next, stop in next door and visit with Nick at Bald Eagle Speed Shop. Hopefully, you won’t have any need that day for full service auto repair… but you can ask about his auto restoration and plans for the Bald Eagle Vintage Iron Revelry scheduled in the spring.
If you go left to the end of the block, you can meet Kathy and browse the Bald Eagle Mercantile for all sorts of interesting collectibles and special crafts one never sees at big city chain stores. Then, take a break next door to relax with Troy and Vickie at Empty Nester’s Wine Bar, where you can taste fifteen different wine varieties named for Lecompton historical events. Or… have coffee and a slice of the best pie in Kansas with Annette at Aunt Netters Cafe.
After your break, stretch your legs by heading over half a block to the Post Office to see the Lecompton history mural and breath in as much fresh air as possible along the tree covered side streets.
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Democratic Headquarters
Another important and interesting site to see is the lovingly restored stone cabin with a large wooden front porch that served as Democratic Headquarters during the Kansas territorial years. This building is 170 years old and is one of the most historic still standing buildings in Kansas. Although this would be an easy and beautiful walk, some visitors may want to drive to this site since it is almost a half mile from Constitution Hall. It is located at 226 E 2nd Street. To request a special guided tour, please call (785) 887–6148.
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Lecompton City Jail
The Lecompton City Jail was built in 1892. It was moved… stone by stone…from private property and reconstructed on the grounds of Constitution Hall. The front door of the jail will be open and some may consider the display inside to be a bit shocking. This is certainly not a tour for the claustrophobic.
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Recreation of Ft. Titus
And then, just a couple of short blocks from the old City Jail, is the log cabin recreation of Ft. Titus. Originally located two miles south of town, many consider the Battle of Ft Titus to have been a major prelude to the Civil War as pro-slavery and anti-slavery partisans fought against each other. Many artifacts from that battle, including shell casings and cannon balls, can be seen on display on the first floor of the Territorial Capital Museum, just up the hill.
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An Award Winning Self-Guided Tour
And finally, take the extra time to do the self-guided walking tour through the core business district of Lecompton. Each stop is clearly marked and offers a QR code that will play a short history tour video on your mobile device. All of these videos were produced by local school children. They are all interesting, quite entertaining, and demonstrate the time and effort that everyone in the local community has put into preserving their local heritage. The entire walk is a very easy trek and covers only about a mile.
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Things to Do- More Points of Interest
Other points of interest near Lecompton include both the Perry Lake and Clinton Lake Recreational Areas, the Perry Wildlife Area, the Old Military Trail, the Oregon Trail, The Kansas State Capitol at Topeka, the University of Kansas athletic events and campus at Lawrence, and kayaking on the Kansas River.
Spring and Summer are great seasons for water sports and boating, where the Kansas River borders Lecompton to the north. This is one of the best kayaking runs in Kansas, with very easy access to the river via a state boat launch site at the edge of town. In Fall, the autumn color season in the tree covered hills rivals what one would see in New England or along the Appalachian Trail. In Winter there are various Christmas season themed events for the whole family. Call (785) 887–6148 for specific event and schedule details.
Overnight Accommodations
There are a variety of Bed and Breakfast accommodations in the center of Lecompton, plus a wide selection of well-known hotel brands within easy driving distance. This author has very much enjoyed The Stone Hill Hotel by Wyndham, which is highly recommended by locals and is only a short ten minutes by car from downtown Lecompton.
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Michael David McGuire is a New York-based writer covering stories of interesting people and places worldwide. For more information or to schedule an interview, call (212) 465–3205. This story is licensed for publication.
