TRAVEL STORIES
The Sounds of Rushing Water Can Soothe the Soul
A Visit to the Brazilian Side of Iguaçu Falls.
I set out with a little trepidation.
Over the last thirty years, I have travelled extensively around this world on my own but I must admit, I’m growing more and more weary of solo travel. I know this because I have begun to shy away from engaging in certain experiences alone.
After almost four months of travelling through South America, I decided to stop in Foz do Iguaçu before making my way back to São Paulo state for my last week on the continent.
I wanted to see the iconic falls.
That morning, I felt a little nervous. Although I had spent a total of two months prior in Brazil, my grasp of Portuguese was still minimal. This, plus not having wifi on my phone for the entire day, gave me pause for thought.
I travel on a dime and rarely book tours or take shuttles, preferring to follow the advice of locals, thus often finding myself on a bus where not one syllable of English can be heard.
While I love the experience of travelling with the locals as you have far more unique experiences that way, there are days when I just want to book a ready-made tour. The thought of being picked up, spoken to in a language I understand, taken to where I need to go, and dropped back off is comforting.
This day, I was a local again.
My host sent me directions in Portuguese to the local stop where I could catch the bus to Iguaçu National Park. I sent up a quick prayer to keep me safe as I headed out the door of my accommodation and set off towards the parada.
A couple of hours before, as I’d sat tucked safely in my bed ruminating on the upcoming bus trip, I had begun creating a mountain out of a molehill.
As I walked, I pondered why this particular outing had me so flustered. I’d set out on my own numerous times before. Maybe having friends to rely on the months prior had spoiled me. I really liked having locals translate for me while guiding me in the right direction.
Maybe after four years of extensive travel predominantly on my own, I’d just had enough!
Although the day had already started to heat up — it was forecast to be thirty-seven degrees Celsius (almost one hundred Fahrenheit) — the fresh air hitting my face sobered my thinking up slightly, and I began to feel better. Sitting in a room can cause your imagination to go wild, but there is something about fresh air that pulls you out of your head.
If you know me, you know I feel the fear and do it anyway.
This was nowhere near as big a mountain as I had climbed over the last few years of travel; it was probably solo travel fatigue that brought it on.
A young couple sat at the bus stop chatting in rapid Portuguese. After a few minutes of gathering some courage, I asked if they spoke English or Spanish. The woman said yes to both, albeit a little. When I asked if the bus to the National Park came by this stop, she said yes, reducing my anxiety considerably in the moment.
If I could get to the falls, I knew I would be able to get back.
I thanked her and left them to continue with their conversation.
The bus arrived, and I hopped on, ready with the exact amount I needed for the journey after a little Google research, of course. I felt much calmer once I got on board, relieved to know that I was on my way to my destination. All else would flow from there.
I spotted a woman in a uniform resembling that of a tour guide. I figured she must speak English if she was working at the park—a bold assumption, yes, but one I made nonetheless. I gathered my courage for the second time that morning and stumbled down the aisle of the rapidly moving bus to sit next to her. I took a deep breath for a smidge more courage and turned my head in her direction.
“Do you speak English?” I asked.
“Yes,” she replied. More relief.
Her name was Claudia, and she was happy to give me the information I was after — I find the Brazilians to be some of the friendliest and most helpful people I’ve ever encountered. She confirmed that the bus would indeed drop me off at the entrance to the park, told me the entry fee, and briefly explained what was possible and available once I arrived there.
After a few more questions, I found out that she worked in the administration section of the tour company that operated from the park. We then moved on to other topics, like her desire to travel and where she wanted to go.
When we arrived at the park, I thanked her for her time and help and stepped into the throngs of people milling about figuring out ticket purchases and making their way to the park bus gate.
I bought my ticket, took a few pictures, and then settled in the front seat on the upper level as the large vehicle readied itself to chauffeur us deep into the park to reach the falls.
I breathed… deeply.
All was okay, and here I was about to see one of the most spectacular natural wonders of the world.
As I made my way down the track on the stiflingly hot day, I was astounded by the beauty of the falls. Rainbows accompanied me as I wandered along the well-kept paths, their exquisite colours peaking out at me around every bend and from every vantage point.
I had never seen so many rainbows in one place before.
The 275 waterfalls span 2.7 kilometres (1.7 miles) and create a natural border between Brazil and Argentina. The natural phenomenon ends at the Devil’s Throat (Garganta do Diabo in Portuguese, Garganta del Diablo in Spanish), the highest and deepest section of the falls.
As I edged closer to the platform that stretched out over the rocky waters of the Devil’s Throat, the spray hit my face in a baptism of sorts, cleansing my mind and spirit.
I breathed again.
Despite being weary down to my very soul, I felt refreshed by the droplets as they landed on my skin.
I navigated the throngs of tourists as I made my way off the platform and closer to the final station, smiling at those I passed, hoping they, too, would feel the power of the falls.
I contemplated life and the epic journey I had been on, wondering what the future held as I watched the water hit the rocks with such force, subsequently shattering into a million pieces.
Did I do that? Shatter into a million pieces only to come together again peacefully?
It has been a long road, the last six years testing me to my limits.
I breathed in the energy of the water, the sheer magnitude of the falls, allowing the power to wash through me as I gained strength to keep going… just that little bit further, just another week or so until I could stop and rest for a while.
I took a final look, thanked the natural wonder for her resolve to keep going, turned, and left.
The sounds of rushing water can definitely soothe the soul.
I felt the need to pen this article, not for the sheer beauty and magnitude of the Iguaçu Falls, which is undeniable, but because it was unusual for me to feel this level of anxiety for a simple day out.
Maybe it was travel fatigue. Maybe after almost four months of travelling, I just didn’t want another outing on my own. Maybe after five years of constant movement, I didn’t want to move another inch. Who knows?
I’m just glad I felt the fear and did it anyway.
Vanessa Brown is a book author, content creator, teacher, and recovering digital nomad. She has lived in six countries around the globe, five of them with her beloved Jaime, The Well-Travelled Cat.
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