My Paris
10 off the beaten path ways to enjoy the city of light
A few weeks ago, I read an article in Whole Food’s online magazine, Dark Rye. It was about 10 ways to live the expat life in Paris. Now, anytime I read a story about living in Paris, I’m immediately and will forever be interested.
In 2005, I spent my own nearly 3-month stay in the city of light. But the article didn’t really share the Paris I found or loved. It seemed a shame to provide such an expected list. On the other hand, it inspired me to share my own.
1. Breakfast Movies.
Paris is a movie lovers dream. Not only do the movie theatres really do serve beer, they are also everywhere. And as truly pasty white Anglo of Anglos, the volume of movies in English is staggering — and the subtitles, not a bad way to learn some French. What puts this simple pleasure over the top, is that every day, you can see movies for breakfast. Theatres, my local was at Les Halles, featured 9AM movies, which when paired with a sneaky contraband chocolate croissant and the theatres café, makes for a very great Parisian morning.
2. The Louvre at Night
You are crazy to go to Louvre any other time than during the evenings. Picture yourself in rooms full of giant paintings and masterpieces, and more often than not, being the only person in the room. If you live in Paris, going every Wednesday or Friday, for about an hour, you can quietly cover the entire museum free of crowds, noise, and actually enjoy the art. A bonus secret tip is to also sneak in a hot dog in the museum café. There’s something so comforting, and completely enjoyable about a Dijon smothered dog in baguette steps away from the Mona Lisa.
3. The best Lunches in the world
The best time to eat in Paris is lunch. You can find the perfect café, serving the equally perfect plat du jour, more often than not it’s something like duck confit or beef Carpaccio. If you know the right places, you can cozy up to a perfect outside table, order up a ½ liter of wine and the special, enjoy a basket of the best baguette all for about 20 Euros. I found good ones to explore in this Authentic Bistros of Paris book. And if that doesn’t work with your budget, go the food stands along the parks on the Champs-Élysées. You’ll think I’m crazy for recommending a hot dog in Paris, but when it’s in a fresh baguette and filled with Dijon, you’ll think me later.
4. Mustard on Tap.
Maille mustard has been an obsession for me since I read about the Paris store in The New York Times before my trip that year. But I wasn’t prepared for how amazing it was. The first time I went, my terrible French was able to procure 3 small ceramic jars with cork toppers, and the three most delicious mustards that all came out of a tap, like beer. It’s amazing what you can think of to use mustard, simply because you want to fill up your jars again, for a ridiculously cheap amount. Turns out, it’s a lot.
5. Random Chinese Food.
If you’re in Paris for a short stay, you can’t really get tired of steak frites, or sole menieure, or escargot. It’s just not possible actually. But at 2 months, you’re open to try other things. Desperate actually. And as you’re walking around, you can’t help but see Paris’ many other restaurants, like walking by the insane bbq ducks in Chinese restaurants. Chinese food in Paris, is unique unto itself — the waiters speak French, and the wine list is amazing. My friend John ensured I didn’t miss out on this picking a particularly good place in the Latin Quarter and sure enough, downstairs, in a cave, we had a perfectly delicious Chinese feast, en Francais.
6. The noises of outdoor eating.
I rented an apartment in the 1st. It was on the 5th floor and it’s many windows looked out on the square and a modern glass building. It was a perfectly quiet little block, and at night about 10 restaurants would fill the square with the sounds of laughter, glasses, cutlery, and the murmur of conversations. To this day, it’s still my favourite sound in the world. These sounds would continue until late in the night, and would often put me to sleep on most nights.
7. The Difference between August & September.
When I arrived, it was late July, and already most things were closed for summer holiday in my neighbourhood. The difference between the slow, sleepy, and tourist rich August, turns into a lively September, where entirely new businesses would seem to open on my street on a daily basis What I had thought was a closed up retail space, would suddenly be a fresh seafood stall. What was an abandoned looking door, suddenly would be a butcher shop. An incredible transformation that just has to be experienced.
8. Try to wear down a local wine bar owner.
The biggest game I played while staying in Paris, was trying to get the owner of the famed Le Rubis Wine Bar to smile at me. Everyday I would saddle up to the bar for a morning café before exploring the city. I would learn an additional phrase or question to ask him. He was having none of it. In the afternoons I’d swing by for a late lunch or afternoon glass of wine. While he was taking the afternoon off, she would smile, indulge my mediocre French, and even bring cookies or pastries to try. But him, not a chance. And I loved every interaction with both of them. People always say that by trying to speak the language, Parisians appreciate the efforts. Even still, that doesn’t mean they have to give you a chance. Locked in a battle of conversation, I never had a chance. But I’d still go back in a second.
9. Strawberry Tarts & Chilled wine.
On a trip to Paris with my Dad, he introduced me to the strawberry tart at Les Deux Magot. It’s the best strawberry tart I’ve ever had. I think I’ve now had 8 of them in my life. Is there any dessert that you can remember wanting to track like that? It’s heavenly. But the secret isn’t just the tarte — but the people watching, and French waiter watching here are impeccable. Minutes can turn to hours here as you watch the surly waiters serve stylish patrons along the St. Germain De Pres corridor. It gets better, if you go for lunch, and I mean early-North-American lunch, get the Cote Du Rhone wine, it will be something they had opened the day before. It will have been in the fridge, and it will be chilled to perfection.
10. Never say no to a local festivals or an afternoon in the Luxembourg Gardens.
Yes, walking around Paris is awesome. But you can miss a lot if you’re not careful. When you’re walking around the city, never pass up a chance at something designed for the locals. In my trips to Paris, I’ve walked around fascinating medieval festivals, watched mime perform at a clichéd gathering of mines, and I’ve seen art shows featuring giant golden heads in the Luxembourg Gardens. The point is, you just have to go with the flow in Paris.
