Milan Beyond Pizza & Pasta
Discovering the culinary heritage of Milano
By: Jonas Timm & Jhordany Nunez
Italy — the country of culinary extravaganza. Perhaps no other cuisine in the world is as widely celebrated as the Italian’s. Being the birthplace of pizza and pasta, Italy’s international culinary reputation has been unmatched ever since mankind first tasted a Capricciosa outside the Boot. It is therefore no surprise that many, upon arrival in Milan, consider eating out at an ‘authentic’ pizzeria one of the first must-dos to be crossed off their bucket list. And rightfully so, as Italy’s northernmost metropolis truly has fantastic pizze to offer! The same goes for pasta, which comes in virtually every thinkable variety and price range. Whether it be spaghetti allo scoglio or fettuccine al tartufo, Milan has it all for you to taste!
Yet, as you may or may not already had the pleasure of finding out for yourself, what truly makes Milan one of the world’s culinary capitals is not only the food’s distinguished taste, but also everything else surrounding eating out in the Lombardian city. Keep reading, and you might just acquire a taste for the unique culinary experience Milan has to offer beyond pizza and pasta.
Let’s start off with basics, shall we? Depending on the amount of time on your hands and the occasion, you might choose from different types of localities for dining (or lunching) out in Milan:
For a quick and hearty snack, a rustic Osteria is the place to frequent. Usually low in price yet very much high in quality, Osterias offer local cuisine in a no-fuss setting. Whether you bring a group of friends or just pop in by yourself, make sure you order a cold pint of Peroni and you will find yourself in good company. Do not bother asking for an English menu though. Real Milanese Osterias do not frequently attract tourists and if they do, they might just not be so real after all. Some Osteria’s we recommend are Osteria Mamma Rosa, known for its taste and chic ambiance, and Terrazza Triennale, situated in the heart of il Parco Sempione, inside the historic design and art museum, overlooked by the magnificent Arco della Pace.
One step up in class (not necessarily in price), the Trattoria represents Milanese culinary culture just perfectly. Combining traditional food and attentive service in a comfortable ambiance, this type of restaurant can be found in every part of the city, offering most authentic northern Italian entrees to be enjoyed by you. Ask your server for a bottle of local vino to accompany your selection of food, sit back and dive into the splendor. We recommend the Nerino Dieci Trattoria, a place to taste the more traditional side of Italian food along with seafood, and Trattoria Trippa, well regarded for its fantastic service, and well known, as the name suggests, for its tripe.
Feeling festive? Be it a celebratory occasion, a night out with that special someone or if you simply wish to pamper yourself, Milan is the city of upscale dining. White linen tablecloths, candlelight, waiters dressed up in vest and tie; an elegant ristorante will be happy to accept your reservation, should you wish for that aforementioned extravaganza. These establishments provide full-size meals consisting of several courses for you to enjoy. A few euros coperto will be charged, usually encompassing a selection of bread, sometimes a bottle of water, and essentially includes the tip, which is never solicited in Milan and, in many cases, is even frowned-upon. We can recommend the very upscale Seta, a two Michelin-starred dining experience that while very pricy, many would agree is well worth it. The food is gourmet, the service impeccable, and the food raved about. Another option is also a Michelin two-starred restaurant, known as Vun Andrea Aprea. With its very simple albeit elegant interior, mix of modern dishes and traditional Italian dishes, but with the Neapolitan dishes shining brightest.
Now that your options are on the table, what are some things to look out for to further enhance your culinary Milanese experience? Surely, you have been introduced to the concept of aperitivo — the pre-dinner drinks & snacks, that get your evening started before heading out to an extended dinner in one of the above mentioned establishments. However, you might not have been familiarized with what the actual idea behind this classical Milanese tradition really is. In Italy, and even more so in Milan, sitting down, sharing a glass of your preferred drink and breaking bread together at its heart is a communal tradition rather than a culinary one. What the modern world likes to call an after work get-together, or, somewhat less sophisticated, the happy hour, known locally as an apéritif has been invented in Italy centuries ago. Its creation in modern times being credited to Antonio Carpano, as a result of his invention of modern Vermouth. Vermouth being a concoction of white wine, herbs, spices, and sweet spirits. His drink became extremely popular, and was used before meals to work up an appetite. During these one or two hours, you get to unwind, engage in more or less meaningful conversation and leave the work day behind. Alongside tapas-style snacks, you might zip on a Negroni and let your thoughts wander off into the sunset, all whilst developing an appetite for the dinner to follow. Here’s a pro-tip: Whether you’re on a budget or you simply do not require a four-course meal every evening; many bars offer their delicatessen well beyond ‘aperitivo-time’, letting you skip the actual dinner altogether. We can recommend the not well known Morgan’s, a place that has a strong local following and loyal core, with cheaper prices and what is regarded as a non-pretentious ambiance, located right across from the Università Cattolica campus. Slightly more out of the way, but worth the trip, is the Bar Basso. Claimant to having invented the Negroni Sbagliato, it’s dated interior and simple elegance makes it popular with visitors and designers of the Salone di Mobile.
What might come as a surprise to you, actually makes a lot of sense on a second thought. Milan, being one of Europe’s largest urban centers, is a truly multicultural place to be. So, as you can imagine, people from all over the world flocked into the city in recent decades. With them, they brought their own cuisines. Mixed with Italian culinary culture, a variety of different fusion-kitchen eateries are to be found all over the city. Should you ever tire of pizza and pasta, you may truly go beyond those classics and find yourself delicious Ramen, seafresh sushi, Argentinian entrecote, or spicy dhal curry just around the corner. In Milan, the world is at your fingertips. Or shall we say taste buds?
Finally, just when you thought it cannot get any more delicious, let us introduce you to a special chef, ready and willing to cater to each and every of your personal culinary preferences: you. Yes, you, as in: yourself. With stores being open every day of the week from early mornings until late, lavish markets offering only the freshest local produce, and a number of noble specialty gourmet stores, it is easy to get your hands on everything needed to indulge in an full-blown cooking spree. What’s probably greatest about the Italian cuisine is, that just as delicious as it is, is it simple. It does not require a lot of patience, professional utensils or elaborate skills, to master the essentials of Italian cooking in the comfort of your own kitchen. Put on the apron, fire up that stove and, after some practice rounds, show off your newly acquired cooking skills.
