The Creation of the City of Fashion: Milan’s Innovation in the Industry
Milan, through time, has earned itself the title of “Capital of fashion”. The history of fashion in Milan started with the Italian aristocracy dating from before the Renaissance.
By Hailey Doolittle
Milan, through time, has earned itself the title of “Capital of fashion”. The history of fashion in Milan started with the Italian aristocracy dating from before the Renaissance.
By the late 14th century, Milan had become a centralized monarchy under the control of the Visconti family. This Italian Renaissance and its monarchy, set Italy’s reputation in fashion because everyone wanted to dress like the nobility, but in the 15th century everything changed and vibrant colors started to be worn. Jewelry, makeup, and elaborate clothing were typical for women while men were used to wearing pigmented colors, and embroideries on their tunics.
Textiles and fabrics like wool, velvet, and silk were produced by some cities such as Milan, Venice, Naples, Florence, and Rome at the same time.
The film industry was a big influence to put on fashion shows in Venice, Rome, and Florence thanks to recognized names like Emilio Pucci, Giovanni Battista Giorgini, and the Fontana sisters. Fashion and film share a highly interactive quality. The costume is integral both to the actor’s performance and to the cinematic rendition of visual narratives and experience. Costumes in cinema have also been used as narrative tools for telling stories on screen that emphasize character identity and development while also attracting a larger audience. More recently, the digital genre of “fashion film” has become a widespread advertising and storytelling tool for fashion luxury brands such as Ferragamo, Prada, Louis Vuitton, Dior amongst the others.
Milan and Florence aren’t the only two fashion cities that can contribute to Italy’s fashion history; Rome is regarded as the third fashion city in Italy since it is home to houses such as Bulgari and Fendi. Italian fashion can boast the success of Dolce & Gabbana, Bottega Veneta, Gucci, Prada, Gucci and many others.
Italian fashion is known for being rather edgy and sexy compared to that of the other fashion capitals. Quadrilatero della moda, or fashion quadrilateral, is the major shopping district in Milan. The Quadrilatero D’Oro sits in the center of Milan connected by the crossroads of four bussling streets being Via della Spiga, Via Manzoni, Via Sant’Andrea, and Via Montenapoleone. This place is often regarded as the new couture capital of Europe.
Fashion declined in the 17th century and lasted all the way until the mid 20th century. Italian fashion fell into decline, after the designs of the Spanish, English, and French courts took over the lead. In France, French fashion became the most popular in Europe, until the 1950s and 60s when Italian fashion retook its position of importance in the fashion world. Florence emerged in the 1950s and 1960s as a fashion capital that specialized in couture for the rich and famous, similar to Paris at the time.
In the same period, between 1950 and 1960, the main contributors to the development of Italian fashion were Antonio Angelillo, Elsa Schiaparelli, Gianni and Donatella Versace, and Marzio Costa.
After this period, there were not as many Italian fashion designers competing for those top spots, as Milan was only very slightly ahead of the curve, in regards to innovation and creativity. In particular, Vogue magazine, along with Italian shows that were broadcast on VH1 and MTV, were the main drivers of Italian fashion.
Milan fashion
Gianni Versace and Giorgio Armani, who are Milan-based pioneers in fashion, were part of solidifying Milan’s name through fashion after their designs became really popular.
Italy was fast becoming the destination for clothing trends around the world, and Milan emerged victorious as the city known for fashion. By the latter half of the 20th century, Milan was a prominent industrial city with good manufacturing connections.
The focus of fashion inevitably moved to Milan, also because the town offered all the comforts and convenience for business development: international airports, conference halls, majestic hotels for press conferences or receiving important guests. Moreover, Milan was the home of some of the most important Italian fashion periodicals.
The fashion history of Milan has evolved dramatically throughout the ages. It has established a long history within the fields of fashion, textiles, and design. According to The Enterprise World (TEW), a business magazine for entrepreneurs and business leaders, there are over 12,000 companies, 800 showrooms, and 6,000 sales outlets of different fashion brands. These include the world’s most famous Prada, Versace, Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino, and Luxottica. Milan is the perfect place for fashionistas and industry specialists as it showcases a perfect blend of luxury, art, and culture.
Milan fashion week
There is what is called the “Big Four Fashion Weeks” and this fashion week is a part of them. Since the year 1958, Milan Fashion Week has been taking place semi-annually with women and a men’s fashion week. The other 3 fashion weeks include; The London, Paris, and the New York. The National Chamber of Italian Fashion otherwise known as Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana is responsible for partially organizing the event.
In 1958 was held the first fashion week in Milan and it is still held twice a year, in September-October for the spring/summer previews and in February-March for the fall/winter collections.
The Italian city of Milan is considered to be one of the most important and major fashion capitals of the world, along with Paris, London, New York. This city houses some of the world’s best luxury fashion, jewelry and accessory boutiques as well as the workshops of many of the industry’s biggest names.
Fashions influence on the economy
For decades, Milan has been consistently changing the landscape of the fashion industry with its huge powerhouse of designers, textiles, and craftsmanship. As the capital of Italian and international fashion, the manufacturing and exports of luxury garments is an integral part of Italy’s economy. All companies and associations in textiles, accessories and fashion have been sectioned under the Confindustria Moda federation. This single federation represents over 67,000 companies that specialize in Made in Italy products, and which generate a turnover of more than 88 billion euro, providing employment to over 580,000 workers.
With a massive hold over international markets Confindustria Moda not only boosts Italy’s economic growth but also is a creative network for the finest Italian craftsmanship. Local manufacturing has increased employment rates in the Italian fashion industry to grow by 19.7 percent from 2013 to 2017. Through investing in local production, jobs circulate across the country creating stable job markets for future generations.
Milans relationship with fashion
Milan has an impressive amalgamation of the past and present with deep roots in the fashion industry dating back to the 15th century alongside the consistent trend setting and new designs of today. With a variety of designers like Gucci, Prada, and Armani just to name a few, it’s no wonder that the fashion scene on the streets of Milan is so vibrant, with an array of different styles and silhouettes. Some may believe fashion to be frivolous but a look into the artistry in Italian wear proves otherwise.
There is a very close relationship between society and fashions as they influence one another. People are granted an outlet of self expression and creative control through the clothing they wear. With the fashion industry being Italy’s third largest industry, the innovation in the way we present ourselves is far from frivolous. When discussing the fashion business in Milan, professor Antonio Catalani at Cattolica Università stated that “the perception of luxury and fashion are influenced by the design between innovative aesthetic research and identity” as Italian designers are incorporating their historic culture with new concepts.
When speaking on behalf of fashion’s role in Italy, creative director of Agnona Simon Holloways describes Italy as “a lexicon of artistry that doesn’t exist anywhere else in the world. They’re never satisfied, they always want to do it better, down to every little detail,” he says in an interview with Vogue.
Local manufacturing
There is a strong sense of national pride that runs deep in Italian production. Fashion is a part of their heritage and identity, bringing humanity behind design. If something is “Made in Italy” there is a recognizable aesthetic. Behind each product is the love and enthusiasm of Italy, qualities distinct to the country. That being said, there is a lot of importance behind the label “Made in Italy” that designers protect through local excellence. Supporting production in Italy is a strategic move in the global market. It’s associated with exclusivity and inimitable quality. The best time to watch this artistry shine is during Milan fashion week. Milan fashion week is one of the most notorious events for fashion in the world. During the season, the latest works in fashion are displayed and applauded for their signature “Made in Italy” craftsmanship. The bi-annual event displays the latest work of the most renowned designers in the world with industry professionals and fashion lovers supporting the prolific work.
Street style in Milan
Many locals in Milan look like they may have just stepped off the runway with bold looks and confidence that upholds the cities reputation. To try and pinpoint Milans distinct style is difficult with a vast array of brands and fashions spotted by locals, but eccentricity and chic looks are always spotted in the heart of the city. With Milan at the forefront of creative transformation, its inhabitants are the cities best contributors.
While there is a new wave of brave and bold streetwear styles, the classic elegance and wealth of Milan style can still be found at The Quadrilatero D’Oro, or the Golden Quad. The galleria is filled with high end shops and even includes the original Prada store from 1913. A renowned area for high end shopping, customers are reminded of Milans rich culture and sophistication with fashion.
A step deeper into the city you will find boutiques and independent shops only available in Milan. With a range of styles from boho to chic and incredible vintage finds, the streets of Milan offer unlimited opportunities to fall in love with fashion. The city offers something for everyone and with visionary design, people and places the fashion industry in Milan is yet to slow down.
