Culture Story -2 : The Norbulingka Exploration

On our way, back to Dharamshala from McLeod Ganj, we were quite clueless as what could be done and seen there, but still relishing the wandering and exploring Dharamshala town, surrounding scenic Dhauladhar hills, and its natural offerings, during our unplanned trip there a few months ago. Thus, had to take the help of a local who suggested a few things that we could explore. Amongst many, The Norbulingka Institute was one of stressed upon recommendations. We soon, as directed, took that narrow, curvy lane passing through a few, mostly noiseless residential localities leading us to Sidhpur, a suburb of Dharamshala, some 30km away from McLeod Ganj, where the Norbulingka Institute was situated. On the way, being completely clueless, I kept guessing about the sights that the Institute would probably unfold and about the hidden fascination that unique term “Norbulingka” possessed.

A few attentions grabbing, maroon and yellow combination attire clad monks with their shining and apparent spiritual skulls, on the way, were quite suggestive of it being some Tibetan educational institution. But, still alive curiosity, as it was so till then, was left to remain as such, for a few more minutes, till we landed there and realized the facts ourselves. We reached there shortly and were in front of Tibetan Style building with a small but magnificent entrance gate done up with rich, colorful Tibetan architecture, at the most serene noiseless location, just on that same narrow road and beside a gushing small offshoot of some bigger stream adding to its natural beauty quotient.
At the outset, by a mere look at the facade and in the absence any prior information, it appeared to be just another Tibetan monastery, until we stepped into the gate and realized our paradigms were shifting. We had stepped into the world, so tranquil, so pious and reasonably grand too; amidst so loud yet clear and melodious chirping of various fearless birds, that too in the afternoon, a near impossible scenario in the hustle bustle of any Indian metropolis. It appeared, as if each single element of that compound, be it the breeze, birds, trees, plants, flowers, or the mystic Tibetan architecture was talking and subtly telling its tales of little glory.

We just felt the sheer meditative ambiance; soothing, relaxing, and enriching, as we went strolling within and watched Japanese style gardens, lawns, and other sitting areas. When we turned left after the entrance, and it was a pleasure to see a fine dining café operated by Tibetan women, professionally dressed up in elegant hospitality attires, with various Tibetan and Continental delicacies on the menu. It’s called Hummingbird Café and rightly so because birds of all different species can be seen chirping and fluttering among the treetops, while Gurgling streams ran through its gardens.

Somewhere, further down in the compound, I again observed a piece of Tibetan Art and tradition, it was an in-house 30 room facility, the Norling House, with a full-fledged kitchen and restaurant operated by well-trained English-speaking Tibetan women, available for the tourists at a reasonable cost. The décor of the entire place, including rooms and elegantly lit common areas, comprehensively displayed remarkable Tibetan handicraft, art, and culture combined with a contemporary modern appeal. I wished if I had come there before having checked into another resort. Alas! We had lost a rare opportunity for a short blissful living there.

In, some part within the compound, one would notice a workshop where the artisans working with wood or metal and transforming it into some marvel. By now, all the curiosities were settled and I had learnt that Norbulingka is a self-sustaining Institution to teach, practice, preserve and promote Tibetan traditional art, craft, and culture. The Institute had a complete shop, that displayed various artistic crafts, traditional furniture, garments, metal wares etc., all created indoor, out for sale.
Visiting, The Losel Doll Museum within the compound, was another enriching experience. It housed a collection of over 150 dolls dressed in traditional costumes from various regions of Tibet. The costumes, meticulously researched, and made from the same materials as the originals would have been, showed the richness and diversity of life on the Tibetan Plateau. They were displayed in stunning dioramas depicting traditional life. The Losel Dolls were created by a group of artist monks from Drepung Loseling Monastery as a project to support their monastery.
One of the artistic dioramas displayed The Cham dance. Cham is a Tantric ritual dance performed by the monks on special occasions, a tradition which spread throughout Tibet at the beginning of the 11th century. Wearing brocade costumes over their robes, the monks don masks representing the forceful aspects of deities or creatures in their entourage. In slow, graceful steps, they reenact the visions and dreams of realizing lamas. Cham dance depicted here, was performed all over Tibet on the 29th of 12th month of Tibetan calendar- the penultimate day of the year. A deer chops up a dough figure which represents all evils of past years, ridding the coming year of obstacles, and allowing positive influences to flourish.

As we moved little further in the Doll museum, we came across another stunning diorama, which depicted the navigation in Tibet. Coracle — on the left of the diorama was the single vessel made of skin stretched over a wooden frame is still used to cross rivers in Tibet. While walking on the dry land, the boatman carries the coracle on his back and often accompanied by a sheep who carries his belongings. It is believed that coracle developed after the boat, at the time of King Songtsen Gampo in the 7th century, because it was lighter and more practical alternative. The man, as seen in coracle is dressed like a peasant from central Tibet in white Chuba with a striped edge. The woman is from Tsang in southwestern Tibet. On the left of Coracle, there is a horse headed boat, that ferried people, loads, and animals across Tibet’s rivers and lakes. The passengers can be seen dressed up in a variety of costumes from central Tibet. The woman on the left is from western Tibet. Likewise, we went across various dioramas depicting one after many other Tibetan traditions, enriching us more about Tibetan culture and traditions through such depictions. Writing about all of those, here in this story would not be feasible.

While exploring the Institute, we came across an in the house The Buddha temple, Deden Tsuklagkhang, a magnificent example of Tibetan religious architecture, displaying some of the finest work done by Norbulingka artists, and the perfect place for prayer and reflection. Adorning the walls are Thangka frescoes depicting the deeds of the Buddha, the Fourteen Dalai Lamas, and other great Buddhist masters. An applique Thangka, over two stories high, hangs from the ceiling, displaying the Buddha and the 16 arhats, the work of dozens of artists and thousands of hours of dedicated labor. The centerpiece of the temple is a 14ft gilded statue of Buddha Shakyamuni, the largest of its kind outside Tibet, lovingly created by Norbulingka artists from hand-hammered copper sheets.


