Unlocked Taiwan: Alishan-Part I
整趟旅程全程自駕，第一天上阿里山的公路蜿蜒又漫長，從新竹8點啟程到嘉義，再開車上山後，約莫午餐時間抵達奮起湖，最應景的就是鐵路便當。想當初外語導遊口試題目之一「請介紹奮起湖便當由來」後來查了官方資料，才知道原來民國50年以還沒有奮起湖便當，所有上山的遊客都是從嘉義買便當上山，然而嘉義天氣熱，早上的便當到中午早已發酸，許多遊客也就這樣忍受著。後來奮起湖站附近也有零星幾家販售便當，和大老遠從嘉義市區帶來的便當相比，當地的便當更新鮮、更好吃，後來也成為遊客午餐的首選。
It’s cosy to go on a road trip along the lush green routes to Alishan in a breezy autumn day. Our itinerary started in Hsinchu city and headed down to Chiayi city. We followed the route sign, finally reaching a lovely mountain village, Fenqihu. If you notice delicious smell after getting off your car, that means you definitely arrive at the right place. Fenqihu located along Alishan Forest Railway is famous for culinary delights called ‘bento’. Dating back to 50 years ago, visitors to Alishan could only bring lunch from Chiayi city since there weren’t any shops or restaurants on the mountain. However, the weather in Chiayi city could be 30–35 Celsius degree in summer. Foods were apt to turn sour when people got to Alishan after 2 hours by train. Regarding this, more and more ‘bento shops’ operated their delectable business in Fenqihu. People now visit Alishan can stop by Fenqihu to enjoy their fresh and savory lunch.
Fenqihu Hotel 奮起湖大飯店
Address: 嘉義縣竹崎鄉中和村奮起湖178之1號
Tel: 05–2561888
奮起湖同時也是林業鐵路阿里山線最大的中途車站，吃完午餐很幸運地碰到火車經過。
Fenqihu is also the biggest station along Mt. Ali forest railway. We were lucky to see the train pulled out in front of us after lunch.
就在火車軌道的斜坡往上走一點，有一處隨意的植栽角落特別吸引我們的目光。賣的東西有點複雜，有阿里山的愛玉、日系的抹茶，以及衣索比亞的咖啡(也有阿里山咖啡啦)。下雨天的午後，坐在坡上很適合點一杯熱拿鐵，然後發呆，等待不一定會經過的火車。
We kept walking along the slope a little bit. A lovely green corner caught our attention. It’s a café sold many flavors of drinks, including Alishan Aiyu Jelly, Japanese Matcha and Coffee from Ethiopia. (and also Alishan Coffee, of course!) After a shower in the afternoon, it’s chill to have a cup of hot latte, drift off and wait for a train passing by spontaneously.
Address: 604嘉義縣竹崎鄉165–2號
接著我們進入阿里山森林遊樂區，整個園區是車輛管制，需要買票進入，如果開車入園還須額外的停車費(NT$100)。響應電子票券系統，如果從網路上先買好票，出示QR Code，還可以免收停車費。
We entered Alishan National Forest Recreation Area. The park was subject to traffic control. If you drive to Alishan, visitors are asked to buy park tickets at the entrance with extra NT$100 parking fee. Taiwan government is now encouraging people to use online booking system. If you buy e-ticket online in advance, with a QR code, you may get in the park without parking fee.
阿里山國家森林遊樂區 Alishan National Forest Recreation Area
Address: 605嘉義縣阿里山鄉2鄰17
線上訂票 e-ticket： https://forestpass.welcometw.com/tour/bGg3
Author: Mavis & Mercy
Photography: Patrick
