第一次聽到司馬庫斯，是地理課本上的名詞，是社區營造的成功案例。自阿里山、太平山系列之後，繼續解鎖森林，加上對「上帝的部落」美名的好奇，我們很快就決定下一個旅遊計畫就是新竹尖石鄉的司馬庫斯。
Our first recognition of Qalang Smangus was a successful model of community engagement from a geography textbook since we were kids. After visiting Alishan, Taipingshan, we soon realized that these famous spots aren’t merely geographical names from a book. The more path we move, the more wonders we discover. In awe of forest and our curiosity towards “God’s Tribe”, we then decided to add Qalang Smangus into our bucket list in no time.
司馬庫斯的旅遊資訊主要都來自官方網站，包含部落經營的住宿和餐廳，以及車輛管制公告等等（聽說每年二月的櫻花季人潮爆多，管制確實有必要）。管制公告：https://www.smangus.org/travel.html#restrictions
Almost all tourist information of Qalang Smangus, such as accommodation arrangement, restaurant reservation and access control, is from their official website.
I. Accommodation and Restaurant:
In order to maintain ecotourism sustainability, villagers in Qalang Smangus built up “tribal cooperation system”, sharing lands, costs and profits together. Hence, Qalang Smangus runs their own hotels and restaurant with whole villagers.
II. Access Control:
We heard thousands of people thronged to view cherry blossoms in February. It’s not hard to imagine the necessity of enhancing access control during flower season.
*Official Announcement: https://www.smangus.org/travel.html#restrictions
#Accommodation
B&B: mtswe’ 司馬庫斯嚒得歲
TEL：0978958440
原以為三個月前開放電話預訂，應該很有勝算的，結果到了開放預訂的第一天，可是整整一天電話都打不進去。也聽聞山路到司馬庫斯路途遙遠，希望能在山上待上幾天悠閒享受，所以心裡還是偷偷期待電話能打通，能住到部落裡面。然而，過了好幾天，電話從來沒有成功接通…。就在快要放棄的時候，剛好壹加壹上了司馬庫斯影片，跟著訂了同樣部落裡的 #嚒得歲莊園。當時距離住宿日期還有3個月，還好夠幸運，還剩最後1間小木屋可預訂。
At first, we though it’s not hard to make accommodation reservation within 3 months before our departure. To our surprise, we found Qalang Smangus’s line was totally occupied on the first opening day of reservation. Even though we tried to get hold of the tourist center in the following days, we could never get through. When we’re about to give up, we saw one of our favorite YouTuber, 1+1, visit a unique B&B called mtswe’. We reached mtswe’ right away and luckily, we finally got our ideal place to stay one night in this well-known tribe.
#Transportation
早就聽聞前往司馬庫斯的路上綿延山路，彎道多且狹窄、甚至有一段是碎石路。考量自駕的難度太高，好在民宿有提供包車接送旅遊的服務（預約制），由部落的小黑帶領，我們滿心期待一路上能聽到族人的部落故事。整個包車旅遊的路線安排也很有彈性，我們先是做了一些功課，規劃好路線後，再和小黑討論確認定案。能夠保持行程的自由，也有當地人的專業建議，我們很喜歡這個方式。
Before heading to Qalang Smangus, tourists should notice rugged alpine routes, especially the dangerous metalled path along the road to Qalang Smangus. Considering the difficulty of self-drive tour, we turned to shuttle service offered by B&Bmtswe’. We were glad to be accompanied by our driver, Balan, a villager in Qalang Smangus and extremely has a perfect sense of humor. Balan gave us full flexibility to arrange our route and also offered considerate advice to optimize our schedule. We had a great time with Balan and appreciated his kindness to let us know different beauty of this lovely tribe.
出發當天清晨剛好下過大雨，上山沿路都有落石，小黑笑說這在部落是常有的事，從部落下山的人，開車經過的話也都會停下把大石頭搬到旁邊，方便其他人行駛。我們也觀察到上山路上很多自行車隊，路上風景很好，而地勢陡峭，可能也是眾多車隊選擇挑戰的原因吧！
Right before the day we departed, there was a heavy rain and the road was covered by the rocks. Balan told us it happened sometimes, and they needed to move those rocks out of the roads for the convenience of the drivers and cyclists. We also found there were many professional cyclists on the way, probably because of the natural forest view and the challenging levels that attract them to come.
#Itinerary
李崠山莊 → 李崠山 → 李棟山古堡
Tapung Mountain Villa → Mt. Tapung → Tapung Ancient Castle (Tapung Old Fort)
步道的起點是號稱台版霍爾的移動城堡 — 李棟山莊，確實很像電影化奇幻卡通才會出現的木屋。「山門不鎖待雲封，莊院無燈待月照」，入口的對聯寫得真好，融入自然卻遺世獨立的淡泊從容、曠達超脫，真令人嚮往。
At first glance, we thought we arrived at the entrance of Howl’s Moving Castle. The exterior design of Tapung Mountain Villa was so unique that we almost believed we accidentally entered a magical movie scene. We noticed a pair of poetry lines vertically pasted on both sides of the front door. The upper scroll said “ Leave the door unlocked ; wait for clouds to close it.” The lower scroll said “ Leave the lanterns off ; wait for the moon to shine.” Blending with the beauty of nature and a feeling of isolation, the couplets subtly expressed the owner’s simple and chill life philosophy.
小黑說，以前這是族人常駐足的休息站，莊主是光復時期來台的老兵，在尖石山上居住，也和當地原住民關係很好，互相幫忙，提供過路人休息喝水借鹽的地方。（之所以要借鹽是因為山上打獵，需要鹽巴保存獵物！）後來查了資料才知道，原來這也是登山客常駐足的地方，也難怪有五顏六色的登山布條。
Balan told us that this place used to be a rest stop. The owner was an old solider from China after WWII. Living on Mt. Jianshih, he had great relationship with aboriginal inhabitants. He was willing to help people and kind to offer passengers drinks and salt. ( Salt is good for prey preservation. That’s why the owner offered salts for those who went mountain hunting. ) Until now, this place has become a tourist spot for climbers to take a rest. No wonder we saw many colorful climbing ribbons at the entrance.
而李崠山也是座親人的小百岳，步道總路線長約1.5公里，從李棟山莊出發，最後可抵達李棟山古堡。然而我們並沒有走完，為了爭取到老鷹溪的時間，半途就折返了。希望下次有機會再來。
The trails along Mt. Tapung is hiking-friendly for a range of ages. Starting from Tapung Mountain Villa to Tapung Ancient Castle (also called Tapung Old Fort), the total route is about 1.5 kilometers. However, to save some time for Eagle River Trail, we only walked half of the route. We hope to visit here again.
老鷹溪步道Eagle River Trail
這是小黑極力推薦的景點。在中午最炎熱的時候，能在山林圍繞的步道內散步，涼爽又舒服，一路上也有溪流水聲陪伴，還能輕易踩水，真是一件最幸福的事。而經過地層變動所產生溪裡的奇石，以及岩層節理的壯觀，令人讚嘆。
Balan highly recommended us to visit Eagle River Trail. At the hottest period of the day, it’s cozy to take a stroll surrounded by mountains and forests. Along with the voice of stream, we took off our shoes and felt the water gently flowing between our toes. What a delightful thing in life! Besides, when looking around the valley, we were astonished by eccentric stones and magnificent joints in rocks shaped by mother nature.
我們輕鬆地沿著步道散步往上，最後就老鷹溪瀑布前休息。還好前一天下過雨，水量明顯豐沛，兩條瀑布宣洩而下，氣勢滂礡。而我們也佔據一個角落休息，吃著零食當作野餐，在瀑布前洗心。
We climbed up the trial at ease and took a short break in front of Eagle waterfall. Since it had rained the day before we arrived, the sufficient water made the waterfall even more magnificent than usual. We then found a comfort corner, had snacks and chilled out in front of the waterfall.
小黑告訴我們，老鷹溪步道生態維持很好，溪裡有非常多苦花魚(鯝魚)，當牠們在水中翻轉時，身上的魚鱗會一閃一閃，所以如果水裡的魚在發光，那就是他們在打招呼了。
Balan also told us that the ecology of Eagle River Trail preserves very well. People now can see many bitter flower fish (Onychostoma barbatulum) in the rivers. When they are flipping in the water, their scales sparkle brightly under the sunshine. Hence, if you see shiny fish in the river next time, it must be bitter flower fish to greet all guests.
另外入口處賣的炸苦花魚，絕對不能錯過。沒有特別的調味，就能一口嚐到的鮮味，真令人難忘。後來才知道原來賣炸苦花魚的姐姐，是小黑的老婆的妹妹，這是我們第一次見識到小黑在山上的廣闊人脈，哈哈！
Visitors cannot miss a special stand right at the entrance of Eagle River Trail. The stand sells fried bitter flower fish without extra artificial spice. The taste was too good to forget. Just give it a try when you visit here next time. BTW, the vendor of the delicious stand is run by Balan’s sister in law. Now you can tell how lucky we are to meet so many friends by Balan. LOL
#Lunch: Tai-gang Hillside Restaurant
午餐：泰崗半山腰休息棧
泰崗半山腰休息棧
Google Map:https://g.page/grgralisa?share
選擇在這裡吃午餐是我們的主意，單純只是在Google map上找到一處離司馬庫斯最近的一家餐廳（但離司馬庫斯還有18公里)。結果老闆娘也是小黑的朋友，What a small Mountain! 能在山上吃到健康又美味的餐點，老闆料理也很大方，例如馬告蛋裡可是滿滿的馬告，我們光猜想這成本早就超過一道100元的價格，好過癮。老闆娘自製也販賣一些特別的調味料、水蜜桃釀、刺蔥釀、蜂蜜等等，非常多元。
It’s our idea to have lunch in this lovely restaurant. Although we still had 18km to arrive at the destination, Tai-gang Hillside Restaurant was definitely the closest restaurant near Qalang Smangus looking from Google Maps. To our surprise, the restaurant owner was also Balan’s friend. What a small mountain! We enjoyed a healthy and tasty meal very much. The owner was so generous. Can you imagine a thick omelette with dozens of fresh makauy (a kind of mountain pepper)? It must cost the owner more than NT$100 to offer us this delicious cuisine. Besides dishes, people can also buy special spicy and even multiple hand-made drinks, e.g., peach wine, Tana wine (a kind of mountain pepper) and winter honey.
Note:
尖石鄉是北台灣的露營盛地，有大山、有步道，自然資源與原民文化非常豐富。
Surrounded by great mountains, forest trials, natural resources and aboriginal cultures, Jianshih Township is famous for camping in the northern Taiwan.
Official Website: https://hccst.pomost.com.tw/english/travel_02_01.php
Author: Mavis & Mercy
Photography: Patrick
