Unlock Taiwan: Qalang Smangus II & Cinsbu (司馬庫斯&鎮西堡)
歡迎光臨上帝的部落 — 司馬庫斯
為了能趕上16:30部落的導覽，我們把握管制時間，吃完午餐即刻就驅車前往。所幸小黑非常熟悉路況，最後我們準時抵達了！一到導覽集合地，參加導覽的人非常非常多，大家都不想錯過一天僅一梯次的定時導覽。
To catch up with a tribe tour at 4:30 p.m., we kept moving on after lunch break. With Balan’s full assistance, we finally arrived at our destination and could not wait to join the tribe tour!
當天的導覽人員拉互依．倚岕是部落的族人，和小黑一樣樂天幽默。聽著導覽介紹部落如何運作到今日的光景，身邊的觀眾每一個都在驚嘆中。深深覺得司馬庫斯存在非常難得，在資本主義主義盛行的世界中，還有一個地方能保有人性的光輝，無私的幫助彼此共好。
Our tour guide, Lahuy, was one of the villagers in Qalang Smangus. He also had a great sense of humor like Balan. While listening to Lahuy’s introduction of the tribe history, we were all astonished by every villager’s persistence, passion and great love towards this beautiful land. It’s no doubt that Qalang Smangus is a naive wonderland. While capital society is all the rage nowadays, people in Qalang Smangus can still keep their integrity, helping each other without asking anything in return.
這位導覽也是共生制度下的受惠者。他很感謝部落資源的支持，讓他能夠受完整的高等教育，拿到碩士學位，而現致力於將所學應用在協助社區與原民文化發展。
Lahuy also benefited from the symbiotic system. He felt grateful to complete his master’s degree with tribal support. After graduating, he then dedicates himself to facilitate community development and aboriginal cultures preservation.
部落根據聖經《使徒行傳》「凡物公用、照各人所需用的分給各人」，建立共同經營制度，例如土地共有制，部落共生與資源分享，團結起來共同保護這個家與文化，真正的取得部落經營的自主權。兒童與年長者的福利也很完善，包含求學支出的學雜費、三餐，甚至到外地唸書的租金等等，都是用部落的公積金支持。老年人也有敬老津貼。共同經營的模式體現在學校、對外營業的餐廳與住宿區等。有自己學校而可以教育下一代，有餐廳和住宿區，接待喜愛自然環境的觀光客群，也提供族人百分之百的就業機會，司馬庫斯部落在深山中成為一個能夠自給自足的社會。
Based on《Acts 2:44–45》, “And all that believed were together, and had all things common ; And sold their possessions and goods, and parted them to all men, as every man had need. “ , Qalang Smangus has built up a collective governance community, for instance, joint lands, tribe mutualism and resources sharing. This system unites villagers to stand together and preserve their traditional culture for generations. Qalang Smangus emphasizes the importance in child development and education. In order to ensure educational right for children, they offer sound welfare, e.g., tuition free and daily meals for tribal pupils ; scholarship and rent for those who pursue high education in the cities. As for the elders, Qalang Smangus also offer a regular allowance.
Besides lands, cultures, welfare mentioned above, people can see the spirit of collective governance realized in school, restaurants and hotels. They have tribal elementary school to nourish their next generation ; they operate their own restaurant and hotels not only to share tasty tribal dishes with visitors but also to keep job opportunities for the locals. Qalang Smangus subtly strikes a sustainable balance between ecology and economy.
#ITINERARY
巨木群步道 The Trail of Giant Trees
住在部落裡的好處就是，第二天睡飽醒來就可以前往神木區了。相較從山下啟程，省去了很多時間和體力。步道全程5公里左右（來回10公里)。經過部落的共同經營與整理，沿路平坦，沒有特別困難的地形和坡度，可以作為早晨悠閒漫長的散步路線。
One of the biggest advantage to stay in Qalang Smangus is to directly go to the Trail of Giant Trees the next morning. Compared with those driving from the bottom of the mountain, we were glad to save plenty of time and energy for hiking. The whole distance of the trial is about 5 km. (Round Trip: 10km) Managed by the tribe, the trail is flat and safe. People can enjoy a leisurely amble in the morning.
一路上會經過竹林、溪流、森林，還能遠眺另一座山頭，欣賞沿路的風景。其中有一大碎石坡，沒有見過這景觀非常興奮，但是下一秒往山谷方向看去，就很難克服心理障礙邁步向前。經過此處建議快步向前，行走的區域還算寬敞安全，就是要先戰勝心魔了。
We sauntered through bamboo forests, bubbling streams and lush green forests. In addition, there were a lots of scenic overlooks along the trail from the top of the mountain. Among these viewpoints, scree slopes was the most representative. At first, we were excited to see the spectacular scene. However, we immediately shook like a leaf when looking down to the deep valley. If you are scared of heights just like us, we highly suggest you to step forward quickly while passing through this area. Though the rock pavement is quite wide and safe, some people may need time to face their fear before moving on.
途中共有2處規劃廁所，可以稍做休息，但請記得垃圾隨手帶走，讓族人得以輕鬆維護，也方便其他遊客使用。
There are 2 toilets for visitors to take a rest. Please take the trash with you whenever you hike. In that case, you can not only help the tribe to maintain the environment but offer kindness to other visitors.
最後可抵達有千年紅檜分布的神木區。神木聚集密度之高，反映了森林的健康度，不禁讓人驚嘆，究竟這片土地受了多少滋養，才能成就千年的參天巨木啊！心中感謝有族人的努力保護這片森林，讓我們能夠享受這些恩惠。
Till the end of the trail, we arrived at the giant trees region. The high density of giant trees reveals how healthy the forest is. We were amazed by the power of the mother nature to nourish these titanic trees for more than one thousand years. We greatly appreciated Qalang Smangus’s effort to protect this forest, which allows us to have these benefits.
#鎮西堡 Cinsbu
上午巨木群步道結束後，我們預留下午的時間要到另一座山頭 — — 鎮西堡。那裡有座名副其實的森林小學「新光小學」。小黑說，在他還唸小學的時候，整片山頭就只有新光小學，來自司馬庫斯（山的另一頭）的同學們，每週都會徒步往返5到6個小時。遙遙上學路，小朋友們在上課日放學後都直接留宿學校，等到禮拜六上午再返家（小小年紀就這麼獨立！）。還好現在司馬庫斯也有自己的小學，求學之路變得輕鬆許多。
After our trip to the trail of giant trees, we spared an afternoon to another top of the mountain — Cinsbu. Hsin Kwang elementary school, located in Chinsbu, is a very famous forest school that deserves its name. Balan said Hsin Kwang was the only elementary school when he was a child. All of his classmates from Qalang Smangus from another top of the mountain walked to the school for 5 to 6 hours back and forth every week. Since the road to the school was far away, many children tended to stay at the dormitory after school and return home till Saturday morning. Luckily, Qalang Smagus has built their own elementary school after several years. Children’s path to the school nowadays can be much easier.
在這兩天的互動下，慢慢成為真正的朋友，小黑才告訴我們，他其實是來自司馬庫斯頭目家族，而小黑的媽媽來自鎮西堡。而在我們追問下，小黑才透露原來他父母的婚姻是司馬庫斯與鎮西堡部落政治聯姻的結果。所以小黑在我們參觀新光小學的時候，也在附近和親戚敘舊。整個山頭（甚至另一個山頭）都是小黑的舒適圈！
Balan was born in a chief family of Qalang Smangus. His mother was from Qalang Chinsbu. After chatting, we learnt that his parents’ marriage leaded to the alliance of Qalang Smangus and Qalang Cinsbu, bringing stable peace for decades. Balan caught up with his relatives while we were visiting Hsin Kwang elementary school.
很高興這次的旅行，誤打誤撞因為住宿的關係而認識小黑，從他述說的故事，用不同的角度了解司馬庫斯。他會打獵、爬山縱走、野溪涉水、野外求生，甚至停電時不必等區公所出馬，可自主排除問題等，這些技能令人心生崇拜，但是對小黑而言，這就是他生活的一部分。在頭目家族長大的小黑，甚至還能和年長的族人用族語溝通（他開玩笑說森林小學老師的族語都不標準了），集結這些優良傳統於一身，想必內心應該是無比的驕傲吧。還有很多小黑如何展現生活智慧王的故事，如果有緣，希望你們都有機會聽到。
We were glad to meet Balan by coincidence for his sake to learn different perspectives of Qalang Smangus through his personal life experience. He has abundant knowledge in hunting, mountain climbing, brook wading and wild camping. He also has a great sense of problem solving. He had ever eliminated the obstacles during power outage before Jianshih township officers arrived. We admired him for his versatile skills. However, for Balan, this was merely a part of his life. Growing up in a chief family, Balan is used to communicate with the elders in mother language. (“Some teachers in the forest elementary schools are not quite familiar with mother language now. “ he joked. ) He must pride himself on putting these good tradition into practice in his daily life. There are still many interesting stories about how he cleverly solve life duties. If you plan to visit Qalang Smangus next time, I hope all you have a chance to hear these stories in person.
