Unlock Taiwan: Taipingshan(太平山)

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Missing Piece

8 min readFeb 8, 2021

鐵杉林步道/Taiwan Hemlock Forest Nature Trail

台灣日治時期號稱的三大林場，包含阿里山林場、太平山林場、八仙山林場。在早期日本治理時期，就成為森林開發的重要林場，非常多珍貴的巨木甚至被運到日本做神社建築使用，或是做為二次大戰末期的戰備儲材。然而伴隨開墾森林的急促腳步，也不斷升高統治者與高山原住民日漸緊張的關係。後來國民政府來台，基於產業政策與經濟需求加強力道墾伐山林。從1960年代台灣開始頻繁發生的水災、土石流等天然災害，才讓政府正視森林對國土保安的重要性。直到官方宣布禁伐天然林，大規模的伐木才正式劃下句點。生態與生計之間的權宜，是值得每一代人深思的問題。而我們現在能夠輕易走入森林，享受森林的美好，國家森林遊樂區這樣以生態旅遊、低密度使用概念，算是一個最佳解吧！

In the Japanese colonial period, there were three prominent forest reserves in Taiwan, including Alishan, Taipingshan, Basianshan. The colonial government regarded these forests as vital lumbering grounds. Many precious giant trees were sent to Japan as the main materials of shrines while some were stored as military assets of WWII. However, the growth of deforestation also gave rise to the intense relationship between the government and alpine aboriginals. Following the end of WWII, the nationalist government of R.O.C. kept implementing a series of logging measures in Taiwan based on the requests of industrialized and economic development. In 1960s, severe natural disasters, e.g., floods and mudslides, hit Taiwan frequently. The government then realized the importance of forests preservation. Not until the officials forbade people from destroying natural woods, did the massive forests degradation finally come to an end. To strike to balance between ecology and economy is never an easy thing for every generation. Fortunately, visiting a national recreational park could be one of the sustainable solutions for people to walk into the nature without unlimited disturbance towards all the inhabitants in the woods.

More Info: https://www.forest.gov.tw/EN/area
延伸閱讀: https://www.forest.gov.tw/MagazineFile.aspx?fno=6067

太平山幅員廣大有12,930公頃，隨著海拔2000公尺，造就豐富的自然景觀，依循季節更迭，呈現多元的樣貌。舉凡溫泉（仁澤/鳩之澤）、雲海、秋季賞楓（紫葉槭）、冬季賞雪、還有瀑布、高山湖泊（翠峰湖）。蜿蜒上山，太平山如與世隔絕，山區內提供餐飲、住宿、販賣部和蹦蹦車等服務設施，形同一個自給自足的小聚落。所以，非常建議規劃造訪太平山第一要事 — — 住在太平山裡了。

Taipingshan recreational park covers 12,930 hectares. With 2,000 meters above sea level, Taipingshan possesses abundant natural landscapes. Following by seasons, Taipingshan presents diverse picturesque views, e.g. hot spring, cloud sea, waterfalls, alpine lakes, maples in fall and snows in winter. Along with the winding path leading up to the mountain, Taipingshan is a stunning remote place that people can truly leave behind the hustle and bustle of urban life. The park provides plenty of amenities, including tasty cuisines, comfortable accommodation, unique provision stores and even exciting Bong Bong Train, just like a self-sufficient village. Hence, we highly recommend people who plan to visit here should stay at least one night in order not to miss any wonders in the park.

太平山區內也有規劃住宿區，主要分為「太平山莊」與「翠峰山屋」兩大區塊。太平山訂房秒殺是眾所皆知的，然而很幸運新手運發威，第一次訂房就到手，以下公開訂房秘笈。

When it comes to accommodation, Taipingshan Villa and Cueifung Villa are the only hotels in the park. It’s not hard to imagine how quickly most rooms were occupied once the booking system was opened. Luckily, we booked the room successfully. If this is your first time to make a reservation, here are our tips to help you save time and money.

訂房秘笈：

1. 規劃週日-週一（或平日）旅遊：避開人潮，還享有八折優惠。

2. 上午8:00開放訂房：約莫7:57就要開好網頁，輸入驗證碼，時間到準備進入網頁。

3. 掌握訂房時機：開放訂房日期為入住日期前2個月，先算好訂房日。

訂房系統
https://tpsr.forest.gov.tw/TPSOrder/wSite/index.do?action=indexPage#

Tips：

1. Make a reservation before 2 months.

The system is opened bimonthly. Please manage your time schedule at least 2 months earlier.

2. Arrange your itinerary during weekdays.

It’ll help you to avoid crowds and get 20% off discount while booking.

3. The booking system is opened at 8 a.m.

Please be sure to open the page and access the verification code before 7:57 a.m. You will earn sufficient time to enter the system and get your ideal itinerary.

Reservation: https://tpsr.forest.gov.tw/TPSOrder/wSite/index.do?action=indexPage&mp=2#

第一次搶住宿成功，甚至選到最夢寐以求的房型 — — 扁柏二人房。

We were so glad to reserve a room successfully for our first time and even get our ideal room style — Chamaecyparis Double Room.

Highlights:

日系禪風/Japanese Zen Style
大面落地窗/Grand patio doors
房內備有除濕機、電熱毯床墊/The room provides dehumidifier and electric mattress.
環保旅館：需自備牙刷牙膏、浴巾/Eco-friendly hotel: Guests have to prepare teeth brushes, teeth paste and towels on their own.
提供當日晚餐與隔天早餐（餐廳就在步行10分鐘內就可抵達的距離）/The hotel provides dinner and breakfast. (People can walk to the restaurant within 10 minutes.)
保留住宿隔日碰碰車劃位優先權（碰碰車起站也在步行5分中內可抵達的距離）/Guests can book the tickets of Bong Bong Train in advance. (People can walk to the Bong Bong Train track within 5 minutes.)
輕鬆抵達鐵杉林自然步道入口/The entrance of hemlock forests trails is close to Taipingshan Villa.
夜晚無光害，可散步觀星 /There is no light pollution in the dark night. It’s nice to take a stroll under the stars.

良心建議：自備泡麵、小餅乾糧食上山。
雖然太平山遊樂區有販賣部，但營業時間僅限於 08:00–20:00，加上販賣的商品選擇不太多，價格也高於便利商店，自備點心是相對明智的選擇。但若只是為了應急，販賣部也算是一大福音啦。
Suggestion: Please be sure to package instant noodles or cookies before visiting Taipingshan recreational park. Although there are provision stores in the park, the items are limited and the price is higher than the one in convenience stores. Hence, it’ll be wise for visitors to prepare some snakes on their own. However, for those who are running out of batteries, water and some other necessities, visiting a provision store can be a suitable choice.

The lunch and dinner of 6 courses plus 1 soup (included in Accommodation fee)

鐵杉林步道 /Taiwan Hemlock Forest Nature Trail

鐵杉林步道起點位於太平山莊附近。我們沿著步道的樓梯直上，途中經過醒目的「太平山原始森林公園」。長達400階梯的木棧道上方點綴著的一盞又一盞的大紅燈籠，森林中的氣氛是如此的典雅，讓我們彷彿漫步在日本京都古道上。

The starting point of the trail is close to Taipingshan Villa. Going upstairs, we passed the magnificent ‘Taipingshan primeval forest‘. The 400-stair wooden walkway was decorated by traditional red lanterns. The atmosphere in the forest was so elegant that we felt like strolling on an old street of Kyoto.

走進鐵杉及檜木林，一旁橫臥的樹幹提供豐富的養分，滋養著各式各樣的地衣以及苔蘚植物，森林內每一角落都可見在積極爭取陽光與養分的個體，安靜地綻放不凡的生命力。

Walking into Taiwan Hemlock and Cypress Forest, we found some tree trunks lying horizontally provide various lichens and bryophyte with ample nutrients. From the four corners of the forest, we were amazed by the floras striving for sunshine and nutrients, presenting their extraordinary vitality silently.

下午2點，日光從樹縫中透進來，在樹冠叢底下行走的我們，就像在秘密基地裏探險的孩子，走到哪都覺得有趣，隨心發現奇形怪狀的樹洞以及盤根錯節的樹根，指引我們更接近森林的深處。

At 2 p.m., we saw some sunshine slip into the small holes of the tree crowns. We were like kids playing in a secret base. No matter where we go, we always found wonders in the woods, especially for tree holes in odd shapes and tree roots in tangled patterns, leading us to the inner of the forest.

蹦蹦車 Bong Bong Train

蹦蹦車最讓我們驚喜的是開放式車廂，和阿里山火車不同（阿里山似一般台鐵），遊客可以體驗穿梭森林、鐵橋，直接投入自然的懷抱。

The most surprising thing about Bong Bong Train is the open coaches which are different with the closed ones in Alishan. Visitors can pass through forest and iron bridges without limits, embracing mother nature directly.

雖總有大量遊客慕名而來，而每班次的乘車人數有上限，管理處仍為了維持更安全永續的服務，每季固定保養，建議大家前往之前先確認休業時間。

Although a large number of visitors come to Taipingshan everyday, there is a strict passenger limitation for each turn. In order to keep the sustainability of safety and service, the park bureau will also maintain Bong Bong Train quarterly. Hence, we suggest everyone to check the business hour of the train before visiting the park.

每個月的第二和第四個星期二為保養日，當日停駛蹦蹦車並進行機械維修保養(遇國定假日順延次日為保養日)
The second and the fourth Tuesday each month is the day of maintenance. The operation of Bong Bong Train will be suspended for mechanical maintenance. (If there is national holiday, the closing day is the day after the holiday. )
Reference: https://tps.forest.gov.tw/TPSWeb/wSite/ct?xItem=2969&ctNode=282&mp=1

茂興車站/Maoxing train station

我們一早搭乘從蹦蹦車站出發的第一班列車，前往終點：茂興車站。此路線昔為日治時期所興建的茂興線，作為伐木運輸用途。距離下一班回程時間，我們約有1小時的停留時間。因為蹦蹦車人數的限制，來到這片土地的人們，能夠在森林中好好放鬆。茂興一帶有多種樣貌，旅客不妨漫步在鐵道森林中，欣賞綿延不絕的紅檜與柳杉林。

We took the first train from Bong Bong Train station to the terminal station, Maoxing train station. The route called Maoxing Line was made as logging railway during Japanese colonial period.

The train runs every 1 hour. People can make good use of time in Maoxing before next train’s departure. Thanks to passenger limitation of Bong Bong Train, people can get truly relaxed in the woods without hustle and bustle. There are a variety of landscapes in Maoxing. People can take a stroll and enjoy the beautiful sceneries of Cypress and Cryptomeria Forest.

蹦蹦車為這趟旅程增添儀式感，隨著列車駛進森林，網路訊號的阻隔讓我們得以一嘗離線的寧靜，伴隨早晨溫和的陽光從車廂間灑落，讓我們得以擁抱森林的純粹與美好。

Bong Bong Train added a sense of ceremony to our tour. Bong Bong Train not only disable the Internet connection for us to have the valuable peace, but also bring the warm sunshine for us to embrace the purity and the happiness of the forests.

見晴古道/Jiancing Historic Trail

CNN評選全球最美28條小徑，其中之一就是見晴古道！ “見晴，景如其名。久雨初晴之際可遠眺奇峰崢嶸的聖稜線；午后常有瑰麗如詩的雲海，有時久陷白茫茫的霧中，反而湧起渴望見晴的心情，此乃「見晴」地名之由來。” 如此詩意的名字，在簇擁的樹木與青苔包圍，陽光溫煦的灑落，成為見晴古道的最佳註解。

Jiancing Historic Trail was one of the top 28 beautiful trails selected by CNN.

“Jiancing, its beautiful scenery is like its beautiful name. When the sky is clear, a magnificent Saint Mountain Line appears. In the afternoon, sometimes picturesque sea of clouds surrounds the mountain while sometimes mysterious fogs stay around the hills. People were eager to see the beauty of sunshine in mist That’s the origin of Jiancing.”

Jiancing is such a poetic name. Surrounding by trees and moss, covering with cozy sunshine, Jiancing is definitely the best name for this unique place.

見晴古道日治時期為「見晴線運材軌道」，作為生產用途，後來整建後沿途也保留原來森林鐵軌遺跡。有了連綿的青綠苔蘚點綴，這個地方成為最多遊客駐足的地點。遊客可以從旁邊的步道隔岸觀賞，或走到步道下方，會發現懸空的舊鐵道下隱藏著一個渾然天成的小池塘。

In the Japanese colonial period, Jiancing Historic Trail was built as logging railway. Until now, the trail still remains some views of the original logging railway. With the decoration of green moss, Jiancing Historic Trail is one of the most famous tourist spots in the park. Visitors can walk along the railway or walk down to the trail. You may encounter with a natural pond hiding below the ancient railway.

翠峰湖/Cueifong Lake Circular Trail

太平山除了山景、森林步道之外，還有湖區。翠峰湖是台灣最大的高山湖泊，拜翠峰環山步道所賜，我們得循著昔日運材軌道路線，欣賞翠峰湖的湖光水色與沿途風光。

In addition to mountains and trails, there is also a lake in Taipingshan recreational park. Cueifong Lake is the biggest alpine lake in Taiwan. Thanks to Cueifong Lake Circular Trail, we are able to appreciate the beautiful landscape along the ancient trail which was used to transport timber.

從太平山莊車程約40分鐘抵達翠峰湖，建議可多安排一天行程，才可悠閒享受翠峰湖景區。翠峰湖的環山步道全長3.95 公里，其中高低起伏，需要一點體力，但沿途美景驚喜連連，總是有活力和好奇心驅動向前。因為時間的關係，我們從入口開始，經過觀湖平台入秋的蕭瑟景色，也有一番風味。而翠峰湖一年四季都有不同樣貌，每一季節都適合探訪。

It took us 40 minutes to drive to Cueifong Lake from Taipingshan Village. We highly suggest everyone to spend at least one day in Cueifong Lake to enjoy the beauty of lake without time limitation. The whole distance of Cueifong Lake Circular Trail is 3.95 km. Some of the paths are ups and downs. You may need some physical energy to get there. However, you will also be astonished by the breathtaking views which will encourage you to move forward along the trail.
Since it’s autumn, we can see the maple leaves falling down to the ground and feel the cozy wind across our skin. With unique seasonal landscape of Cueifong Lake, every season is all the best time to visit here.

另外一個更令我們驚奇的是苔原區，園區每一處都披上被子植物、枯枝落葉層、苔蘚植物所織成的綠衣，我們就像誤闖小精靈的秘密基地，對植物們茂盛的生命力驚嘆不已。

Among them, the most surprising thing about Cueifong Lake is the moss area. Every ground of the area are covered with angiosperms, deciduous layers and bryophytes. It seems that we ran into the secret home of gonmes with awe of mother nature.