Checkmate: plaid is back [ELLE column]

Samantha Steele
Mission Succexy
Published in
4 min readJun 17, 2023

Note: This column was originally published in 2018, and was my inaugural column at ELLE South Africa. I wrote it on honeymoon in Vietnam, before my pregnancy with Maya, and it really started a journey getting to know my own body and to be more adventurous with my sense of fashion. After a traumatic tenure at Marie Claire as a features writer, this felt very cathartic. Now with three kids under my belt, stretch marks populating my dramatically changed tummy, and my sense of fashion determined more by comfort than what’s in style, I felt the need to dust this column off when I noticed the young, trendy people in my office donning plaid once again. Fashion is, indeed, circular.

DON’T CHANGE YOUR STRIPES: WEAR THEM

Plaid is the pattern of the season, so channel it’s punk rock energy this winter

Originally published in ELLE South Africa in 2018

Sometimes, I feel like Andy in the first half of The Devil Wears Prada: cynical about fashion as an industry; and an ugly “fuller figured” duckling in a sea of tropical birds. Like Andy, it’s tempting to think that clothes are functional but meaningless and trends churn out of the runways like bubbles on a wand: here today and pop! gone tomorrow. And though that can be true, plaid is the pattern that moves against the grain.

Plaid — stripes on an acid trip — first came meaningfully into fashion during the punk rock revolution, and their return to the runways reminds us that the oppression punk was fighting in the 70s is far from over in 2018. Feminism, freedom, and anti-institutionalism are all a strong part of #metoo, as well as the fat-positivity and body confidence movements. Singer Patti Smith said, “Plaid is another word for freedom”, and this is certainly the pattern that packs a punch — both symbolically and fashionably.

As a plus size woman, my fight is to feel validated and heard in a world that is notorious for simply pushing ctrl+ on clothing — enlarging smaller sizes with no thought about the real body of a fuller figured woman. This season, Prabal Gurung’s designer show — chock-a-block with clashing plaids — began with the activist’s prayer and the telling line, “Grant me the strength to change the things I cannot accept” and then demonstrated a bold collection of plaid and patterns that turned clothing into a symbol for today’s rule-breakers. Sure, it’s a cleaner look than the 70s, but it clearly demonstrates that today’s fashionistas still don’t take direction about how we’re allowed to look.

And plaid, with it’s stripe-ception look of stripes on top of stripes on top of stripes, goes against everything I’ve been taught to wear — and not to wear — as a larger lady. It’s bright. It’s striped for goodness sake (horizontal and vertical) and it certainly draws attention to all areas, not just the ones labelled “problems”. But done right — in large or small doses — plaid can add chic dramatic flair to your outfit, whether you go for a punk-in-pink look or more subdued caramels, or a combination of the above. Also note that a plaid handbag or scarf can add a dramatic touch to the winter hues in your wardrobe and can be easily mix-and-matched.

This season, include plaid in your wardrobe: show that you are not just a rule-breaker, but also a bad-ass.

Reclaim the plaid trend this winter with some simple tips

Zendaya at the 2018 Burberry February show

  • Don’t be afraid of clashing plaids. As actress and activist Zendaya demonstrated at the Burberry February show, layering your plaids can be a surprisingly good look, especially if the tones match between the two patterns. Pair that with simple make-up — like Zendaya’s dewy look — and a chic hairstyle — like Zendaya’s cornrows — and you’ve got a debonair mien ready for work or play.
  • Remember your shape. Emphasise your curves by combining plain items of clothing with plaid, whether fitted pants, a skirt or a coat. A plaid dress with a belt to cinch in your waist is also a good look for anyone with curves. Bright shoes or matching a colour in your plaid are good ways to round off the look.
  • Don’t forget to accessorise. Not bold enough to embrace the full glory of plaid? Plaid shoes, handbags, and scarves are easy ways to integrate the pattern into your wardrobe.
  • Keep your plaid ensemble! This pattern rarely goes out of fashion and is easy to mix and match. Note: I am so grateful for the plaid I bought in 2018 and can dust it off again this winter!

The author in plaid in the late 80s

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Samantha Steele
Mission Succexy

Word-smithery, feminism, and body confidence all wrapped up with cake. Featured at Forbes Women Africa, Daily Maverick, Mail&Guardian, Marie Claire and others.