Raised Bed Greenhouse Construction Instructions

By Madison Chan and McKensie Nelms

[This blog post details how to build our raised bed greenhouse. If you would like to learn about our personal experience during this project please read our other post here.]

Inventory

Base/Bottom Frame

2’’ x 4’’ x 4’ SPF Premium wood (x4)

2’’ x 2’’ x 4’ SPF Premium wood (x4)

2’’ x 4’’ x 8’ SPF Premium wood (x4)

2’’ x 2’’ x 8’ SPF Premium wood (x2)

3’’ x 5’’ Tie Plate (x8)

#8 x 3’’ Deck and Fence Screws (x22)

[2 will be used for PVC Support Bar]

#6 x ¾’’ Sheet Metal Screws (Pan Head Phillips) (x80)

Lid

3’’ Corner Braces (x4)

5–¾’’ Door Pull (handle) (x1)

4’’ Zinc-plated Heavy Duty Corner Brace (x4)

½’’ x 10’ Schedule 40 PVC Pipe (x4)

[Note: 4th pipe should be cut into 3 sections: 1.5’ (x2) and 7’ (x1)]

¾’’ 2-Hole Conduit Straps (x6)

#6–32 x 1–½’’ Philips-Slotted Pan Head Machine Screws (x12) [Used as small bolts]

#6 Zinc-plated Steel Flat Washer (x24)

#6–32 Zinc Plated Nylon Lock Nut (x12)

PVC Support Bar

¼’’ x 3–½’’ Carriage Bolt (x2)

#108 Zinc-plated Square Bend Screw Hook (x2)

¼’’ Zinc-plated Cut Washer (x8)

¼’’ Zinc Hex Nut (x2)

Other

2–1/2’’ x 1–9/16’’ Middle Hinges (x4)

2’’ Hook and Eyes (x3)

Wind Chain (x2)

Paint: PPG Timeless 8oz Pure White/Base 1 Flat Exterior Paint Sample with Primer

Paint colors used:

• Thai Teal #HDPB02
• Desert Orange #HDPO27U
• Regal Purple #HCPV53
• Bali Bamboo #HDPG01D
• Festival Yellow #HDPY41D
• Red Geranium #HDPR53

Clear Semi-Gloss Oil-Based Exterior Spar Urethane (1 qt.)

Roll of masking tape or painters tape

Equipment Used

Drill (Several drill bit sizes)

Screwdriver

Nut driver

Paint Brushes

Sharpie (or other maker)

Ruler

Tape Measure

Level

Note: Although it is not mentioned in the procedure, we drilled pilot holes for all screws before screwing them in as a precaution. Use drill bits slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws being used.*

Procedure:

Base/Bottom frame:

1. Mark 2”x4” wood with marker to denote placement of screws and hinges.
2. Attach tie plates to 2”x4”s in the positions shown on the technical drawings with the sheet metal screws.
3. After attaching tie plates, begin connecting the corners of the base using 3” deck screws. Reference technical drawing for screw placement.
4. Check that all corners are right angles. If angles are not 90 degrees, adjust screw tightness until frame becomes straight.

Lid/Upper Frame:

1. Mark 2”x2” wood with marker to denote placement of screws, hinges, brackets, and handle.
2. Attach ‘L’ corner brackets first. Avoid over tightening the screws because this can distort the angles causing a crooked frame.
3. Add in middle support beams using a 3” screw at each end. Make sure the beams are perfectly parallel to the outer frame in order to avoid making the frame crooked.
4. Attach ‘triangle’ corner brackets. We chose to only put screws in the outermost holes on each bracket in order to avoid hitting the 3” screw and/or distorting the shape of the frame.
5. Attach handle to the front of the frame, as shown in the technical drawings.
6. Attach all four hinges to the back of both the upper and base frame in order to connect the two frames. Reference the technical drawings for placement.
7. After completing the upper frame, check that it is straight and all angles are 90 degrees. If the frame is crooked or distorted, adjust the tightness of each corner bracket until the upper frame matches the base frame.

PVC Hoop Attachment:

1. Cut one PVC pipe to 7’ length; cut and set aside two 1.5’ segments for PVC support arms
2. Hold one end of PVC pipe in place inside frame (as shown in technical drawing) and screw in conduit bracket on top. Repeat on other side of pipe.
3. Mark spots for small bolts on either side of PVC, above and below the conduit bracket.
4. Remove PVC and drill holes for small bolts.
5. Repeat on 2 PVC pipes.
6. Reinsert PVC and add bolts with a washer on either side of the pipe and add the lock nut on at the end. Reference technical drawings for visual representation.
7. Use nut driver and screwdriver to fasten nylon nuts on bolt.
8. Repeat with 2 remaining PVC pipes.
9. Take 7’ segment of PVC and hold in place, centered, under the PVC arches.
10. Using two zip ties, place in a cross pattern over each intersection in order to hold the 7’ PVC in place. Check to make sure that each intersection is in line with the conduit brackets.

PVC Support Bars:

1. Take 1.5’ segment of PVC and drill hole 2’’ from end and approximately ¼’’ in diameter.
2. Drill hole in base 14’’ from end and 2’’ from top of base, roughly ¼’’ in diameter.
3. Insert bolt with washers, drilled pipe, and nut as specified in technical drawings.
4. Screw 3’’ screw 30’’ from end so that bar lies flat. Screw should be screwed in approximately halfway to allow for enough room for bar to sit comfortably.
5. Screw in square bend screw hook 14 ¼’’ from end on outside lid frame. Orientation should match technical drawing.
6. Repeat on opposite side.

Final touches:

1. Holding lid at 90 degrees to base, screw in wind chain as depicted in technical drawing.

1. Use masking tape to cover moving parts, then, using desired color, paint and coat in polyurethane, waiting the appropriate amount of time, specified on each paint can, in between, to let the coats dry.
2. Screw in hook and eye latches on either side and on the front of the bed.

Although we built ours using the instructions above, we would suggest the following edits in any future reconstruction:

1. An extra tie plate on each 2’’ x 4’’ x 4’ side. (Totaling 2 tie plates on the shorter sides)
2. Paint and seal after assembling with tie plates and before putting the rest of the hoop house together.
3. Add a handle on each side for easy lifting.
4. Use only ‘triangle’ corner brackets for lid instead of ‘L’ corner brackets.

Final Product