Cleaning and Rappelling a Sport Route: A Step-by-Step Guide
With detailed diagrams!
Are you a beginner outdoor lead climber interested in learning how to safely clean and rappel from a bolted anchor sport route? In this 4-minute read, I’ll walk you through the essential steps to rappel off the top of any single-pitch sport route. Rappelling is a great option when the anchor system shows signs of wear, minimizing wear and tear on the rings. Let’s get started!
Familiarize yourself with the anchors
Sport routes throughout North America typically have two bolted anchors at the top, often equipped with quick-links, chains, or big-O rings for rappelling.
The Checklist
Before climbing and rappelling, ensure you have the following:
- Sufficient draws for the route. Black Diamond, quick draws
- A long enough rope for the rappel (usually 70m, but check the length)
- Metolius Daisy Chain Personal anchor system (PAS)
- Black Diamond, ATC belay device
- Prepared Prusik cord
- Inform your lead belay partner about your rappelling plans
- Discuss and establish the sequence of commands with your lead belay partner
- Plan to inspect the anchor system before configuring your rappel
The Execution
1. Inspect the Anchors: Once at the top of the route, check the mechanical integrity of the anchors to ensure they are in good condition.
2. Secure Yourself: Use a PAS with two locking carabiners to secure yourself to both bolts for redundancy. Find a comfortable position and announce to your belay partner, “I AM SECURE AT THE ANCHOR!”
3. Tie a clove hitch: Take in slack from the rope, tie a clove hitch, and attach it to a larger carabiner on your hip. This knot ensures you don’t drop the rope and get stranded at the top in the following step.
4. Coming off belay: Inform your belay partner, “I’M IN SECURE. COME OFF BELAY!” Your belay partner will remove their belay device from the lead rope. As you’re securely attached to the anchors with your PAS, untie your belay knot without worrying about dropping the rope.
5. Pass the rope through the rings: Pass the short end of the rope through the big-O rings and tie a barrel stopper knot to prevent it from slipping through. Untie the clove hitch and pull on the short end until the midpoint of the rope is between the rings, ensuring both ends reach the bottom of the route.
6. Secure the ATC Device: Insert the rope into both brakes of the ATC device and attach the loops and ATC to your Metolius Daisy Chain. Tie the Prusik’s knot (shown in green below) as a useful fail-safe to brake the rappel if needed.
8. On rappel: Remove the PAS from the anchors and slowly load the rappel system. Notify your partner on the ground by calling out “ON RAPPEL.” Use the Prusik knot as a brake and feed the rope with your right hand into your left hand (on the Prusik knot). Lean back to feed rope through the ATC as it is usually stiff.
Enjoy the Descent: Relax and savor the rappel experience. Happy descending!
By following these step-by-step instructions, you can confidently clean and rappel from bolted sport anchors, ensuring your safety and minimizing wear on the anchor system. Rappelling allows you to enjoy the descent while preserving the integrity of the rings. As a beginner outdoor lead climber, learning these essential skills opens up a world of possibilities for exploring single-pitch sport routes with confidence. Remember to always prioritize safety, communicate with your belay partner, and double-check your gear before embarking on any rappelling adventure. Enjoy the thrill of the descent and the breathtaking views along the way. Happy climbing and rappelling! #ClimbingSkills #RappellingTechniques
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