Our Adventure Hiking Hut-to-Hut in Sweden’s Vålådalen
Join us as we navigate Sweden’s mountain cabin system while trekking the popular Vålådalsfyrkaten trail.
This guide has also published here.
If you’re keen to learn more about the Swedish hut-to-hut hiking system, this story is for you.
The route we’ll be following you’ll find here. To navigate in real time check out Naturkartan or buy an old fashioned map.
Vålådalens nature reserve is a good introduction to hiking for beginners if you’re ever in Sweden and need huts (mountain cabins) to sleep in as you follow your trek. Vålådalsfyrkaten is popular but not as popular as Jämtlandstriangeln (also a hut-to-hut trail) which is very busy during the summer season hence why we didn’t go for the latter one.
Jämtlandstriangeln though has plenty of good huts where you can buy an evening meal. This trail does not. You’ll have to cook on your own. This one is also tougher than Jämtlandstriangeln.
If you embark on the same journey, expect the days to be quite long as well. You’ll hike 12 to 15 km daily, amounting to a total of 55 km over four days. This doesn’t sound like much but add on a heavy backpack and a bit of heat and it’s a good amount of exercise. I’m really selling this to you aren’t I but it’s going to be a great experience, I promise.
The hike can obviously be performed in either direction. I’ll mention this later too but the best time to go is August or September.
Also remember that if you don’t have a few mates with you, you can always join a guided tour. Check out guided tours here by smaller organizers, just filter by ‘Sweden’.
As for the Vålådalsfyrkanten hiking trail, it starts in the historic and rich old-growth forest, the preservation of which was the primary reason for establishing the Vålådalens nature reserve a quarter-century ago. As the trail meanders through coniferous and mountain birch forests, you’ll encounter ponds, streams, marshes, and flowering meadows. This is pure nature for you.
This journey occasionally brings you to the tree line, in the borderland between the bare mountain and sparse mountain birch forest. Thanks to the glaciers, the landscape is endowed with beautiful features like ridges, plateaus, and crevice valleys, often giving it a fairy-tale appearance.
Before you set off, there are several things to consider. Firstly, it’s a good idea to download the Naturkartan app for local maps, or purchase a physical map at Vålådalen (they’ll have them at the store when you get off the bus) or at any book store in Sweden.
As for when to go, timing is key to avoid pesky mosquitoes. July will be the absolute worst and the August the best. We went for July and ended up with a few hundred mosquito bites. It was a really bad summer. We needed a mosquito net for our faces. Fitness-wise, you’ll need a moderate level to tackle the daily distances comfortably but it is very beginner friendly. The trek lasts a maximum of four days.
Booking your huts in advance is also crucial ever since 2020. The cost per night for one bed is 450 SEK for STF members and 550 SEK for non-members. To become a member, you’ll need to pay 345 SEK. If you plan to visit more than three huts in a summer, it may be more economical to become a member. To book your huts visit STF. The huts for this route is Lunndörren, Vålåstugan and Stensdalen.
There is the option to add on Vålådalens Fjällstation but this hotel is at the start and end of your hike. Vålådalens Fjällstation also has a restaurant and all comforts of a modern hotel.
Click on the links for these huts and hotel to book your bed at that page directly. You can also book them at the same time, just add each one on and then check out. At Lunndörren and Stensdalen huts, you’ll also find a sauna but after Covid they are not always open. Vålådalens Fjällstation told us that they always has their sauna open regardless.
Packing correctly is essential. STF has a packing list in Swedish that you can translate. However, keep in mind that staying in huts means no need to pack a sleeping bag. Instead, bring a bedsheet, pillowcase, and a duvet cover. This requirement came into effect post-Covid. Late summer trekkers, remember a headlamp. Also, make sure to pack shoes suitable for crossing streams, as you’ll encounter several along the way. Some of us attempted this with flip flops, a decision that proved to be less than ideal in the face of strong water currents. A pair of Crocs would be great.
Also, pack a thermos for hot water and plan your meals. Freeze-dried meals heated with hot water are the quickest, complemented by powdered coffee.
Carry at least two small thermoses of water every day — you’ll need it to cook with. Provisions can be bought at the cabins, so no need to lug all your food along. All of these huts for the Vålådalsfyrkaten trail, come with a small store selling food, you’ll find the list to what they are selling here.
Remember, these huts don’t have electricity (pack power banks) nor running water, although cooking on a stove is possible in the huts. You’ll bring in water from the lake to cook with. There are no showers or modern bathrooms.
To get there from Stockholm, take the SJ train to Vålådalen fjällstation. The train stops at Undersåker and then from there there is a bus that takes you to Vålådalen. The buses synchronize with the trains, so there’s no need to worry about late trains. SJ will book both the train and the bus for you so you book your end destination as Vålådalen fjällstation. There will be an option for a day train or a night train, pick what you prefer.
The minimum cost for this adventure is around 1200 SEK for the train and 1650 SEK for three nights in the huts. It can be as costly as you want it to be. Also remember, there is the option to use a tent instead of huts to cut down costs further.
The trail is set up like so.
- Vålådalen to Lunndörren Fjällstuga (Length — 12 km)
- Lunndörren Fjällstuga to Vålådalsstugorna (Length — 16 km)
- Vålådalsstugorna to Stensdalen (Length — 15 km)
- Stensdalen to Vålådalens Fjällstation (Length — 14 km)
Read our experience for each of these parts below. The third day was the absolute best one. We don’t know why.
Starting Point: Vålådalen
This spot, complete with restrooms, is considered a “fjällstation” (station) rather than a “fjällstuga” (hut). As such, you can rent a standard hotel room, and treat yourself to some top-notch breakfast and dinner. Also at the end of your hike they usually serve Swedish waffles.
Spending a night here before or after your hike could be a good idea. Vålådalen boasts its own set of daily hiking routes, perfect for a warm-up. You can find these trails on the Naturkartan app or purchase a map on-site.
Apart from its inviting restaurant, Vålådalen features a convenience store for essential supplies and offers shower rentals for the day. If you decide to stay, enjoy an outdoor jacuzzi and a sauna to unwind.
However, most hikers use Vålådalen purely as a launchpad for their journey, as it marks the bus route’s end. From here, a 12 km walk leads to the first hut, Lunndörren Fjällstuga. In our case, we arrived in Vålådalen at 4 pm by bus, underestimating the effort required to walk with heavy backpacks. We didn’t embark on our hike until 5 pm, reaching the hut well past 9 pm. The staff, assuming we had lost our way, were relieved to see us. A word of advice: either kick off your hike promptly or consider spending the night at Vålådalen.
First Hut: Lunndörren Fjällstuga (Length — 12 km)
Make sure to verify your path using a map, but it’s generally easy to locate. All the trails originate from the same point and given the number of hikers, you’re unlikely to miss it.
This trek predominantly winds through a mountain pine forest. Be warned though, if you’re planning a July hike, the dense mosquito population might make it a bit challenging. I recall us dashing through, as if we were being chased.
Your journey starts with crossing the Vålån river, and after a brief walk alongside it, you’ll reach a fork in the trail about 6 kilometers in. The entire hike will take around three to four hours, depending on your pace. Ensure you take regular breaks instead of powering through in one stretch — it’s a strategy that will make the journey harder.
We found a rhythm of walking for 15 minutes, then resting for 2, or a 30-minute walk followed by a 3-minute break. It made the trek more manageable. You’re in for a full day of walking, so you might as well enjoy it.
When you reach the end of this part, you’ll find the hut cozily tucked next to Lunndörr Lake, perched where the forest gives way to bare mountain. Eastward from the cabin is the Stor-Gröngumpen mountain, and southeastward, the Santa mountain. Further into the heart of the massif, you’ll discover the famed Lunndörr pass.
Unfortunantely, exhaustion overtook us when we arrived, and we completely overlooked capturing any photos. But the scene was undeniably stunning, and the hut was pristine and a comfortable place to rest. The morning view was breath-taking. You’ll have to experience it firsthand yourself.
Second Hut: Vålådalsstugorna (Length — 16 km)
Armed with the momentum from completing our initial hike in just 3–4 hours, we sauntered into day two with a leisurely morning. The typical hiker usually sets off by 9 am, but we were still enjoying our breakfast at by then. We spotted the hut staff shaking their heads in disbelief, but we just smiled back, assuming others must be taking it slower than us.
It was well past 10 am when we finally hit the trail, having finished up our obligatory cleaning tasks. You’re required to clean your room and pitch in with other chores like fetching water, so it wasn’t just a case of lollygagging around. That said, we were the last ones out, already off to a slower start than planned. Here’s a piece of wisdom I’ve carried with me since then — the second day of hiking is the toughest. The mosquitoes didn’t make things any easier, either.
We were caught off guard by the lengths of the hikes. Sure, the first leg was a tidy 12 km, but the second leg stretched out for an exhausting 9 hours. We’re pretty sure it wasn’t our break frequency throwing off the timing — the map distances were just plain deceptive. This leg of the trek was undoubtedly the longest, sapping hours out of our day. Though stunningly beautiful, it also proved a tough day out, especially with the hefty cameras we’d regretfully brought along.
Don’t let the trail’s walkable terrain fool you. Despite being near the tree line, carrying a full backpack can make this a demanding hike. Your route will take you past the untouched forests on the north and the distinctive valleys of Gråsjöfjället to the south.
The trek kicks off with a trudge across marshland before heading towards Finnångeltjärnarna and Lunndörrsån. After a significant climb up Trondfjället, you pass by the Tronnan stream before it merges into Vålån.
The trail continues along Vålån valley, climbing the final stretch before you reach your destination. The last two kilometers to STF Vålåstugan becomes notably rockier, and during periods of high water flow, you might encounter some tricky crossings.
Here’s where our adventure took a bit of a detour. Roughly three-quarters of the way in, fatigue hit us hard. In our weary state, two of our group mistakenly set off on the winter trail. In summer, this path is riddled with ‘bog’ or ‘marshland’ — squishy, waterlogged terrain that can swallow your foot with each step. Not to mention, it also features an array of lakes which we had to wade through. With every stumble and splash, our backpacks were soaked, spirits drenched, and some of our valuables, tragically lost to the deceptive terrain.
This bit of navigational mischief etched a vital lesson in our minds — follow the trail marked with dots, not dashes. The dashes signal the winter trail. While it made for an interesting deviation, it wasn’t the most pleasant of experiences. When we finally arrived at the hut, the staff couldn’t help but chuckle at our water-logged state, offering us some soda as a token of consolation. Again, they asked what had kept us.
The next morning we were prepared to leave early.
Third Hut: Stensdalen (Length — 15 km)
On the third day, we hit our stride. Rising early, we felt ready and determined. We had learned our lessons from the previous day and were resolved not to repeat the same mistakes.
The hike was surprisingly smooth this time. We chalked it up to the “fjället” — the high mountain terrain we were trekking through that seemed to keep the pesky mosquitoes at bay. But the map, it seemed, had played us again. Despite our frequent breaks, we managed to reach our destination in a mere 5 hours. And with a full day at our disposal, we found it hard to believe that the previous day’s leg was just a kilometer longer.
The change in scenery was a welcomed distraction. We moved from marshlands and flat mountains to the canopy of birch forests, all under the watchful peaks of Lill-Stensdalsfjället. The initial 9 or 10 kilometers had us just above the tree line, a pleasant meander that set the pace for the day.
Along the way, there were a couple of stream crossings that proved challenging, especially when the water levels were high. We had to tread carefully and, in some places, deviate upstream to find safer crossings. One of us lost a flip flop when she “vaddade” through the stream. Don’t use flip flops.
But despite these minor hiccups, we found ourselves truly appreciating the journey. We even made the most of the clear mountain streams, with one of us partaking in a few spontaneous dips.
It was refreshing and rejuvenating, marking the start of our newfound fondness for the trail. It was a good day, a relaxed one, and we finally felt like we were really enjoying the hike.
Arriving at the last hut, Stensdalen, we were taken aback by its modernity. The original main structure had burned down some years ago, but the newly rebuilt version boasted a contemporary design, despite its remote setting.
It relied on solar cells for essential power, but there was no electricity available for personal use, so remember to pack a power bank for your phones.
Also, as mentioned before, there are no modern showers or bathrooms as there is no running water. However, it is perfectly fine to grab water from the nearby lake. Fine to bath in the lake too as long as you keep from using too much bath gel.
Inside, the rooms featured bunk beds — modern, well-designed, and surprisingly comfortable. The cooking situation was a bit of a community affair with shared kitchens. Water had to be fetched from the nearby lake or river for both cooking and cleaning. While some of us found using freeze-dried food much more convenient due to the lack of running water, others felt that cooking meals added to the adventure. It’s a bit trickier, sure, but maybe that’s part of the charm.
Just like the other cabins, Stensdalen housed a small store stocked with essentials like freeze-dried and canned food, bread, and — crucially — mosquito repellent. It’s handy because, technically, you wouldn’t need to carry much food with you, unless you’re particular about your meals. Keep an eye on the time though, as the store usually closes around 8 pm.
As for leisure activities, there’s no shortage. You can bask in the sun, take a dip in the lake, or even heat up in the sauna. Some folks even took the opportunity to wash their clothes. I guess it’s all about getting creative with your free time. It’s also a great chance to mingle with fellow hikers and share tales from the trails.
We wrapped up our day at Stensdalen with a good night’s rest, fully aware that the next day would start much earlier than usual. We were determined to hit the trail at the crack of dawn, ensuring we could catch the 4 pm train the following day.
Back to Vålådalens Fjällstation (Length — 14 km)
For the last day we decided to get an early start so we were sure to make the train at 4 PM. We had a track record of being late so this time we needed to be as early as possible. So at 5 AM, tired and without speaking a word to each other, we ate breakfast and then headed out.
The trail from Stensdalen mountain hut initially winds through a mountain birch forest, with isolated open areas and stretches of marshland. Two kilometers from the Stensdalen huts, you reach a bridge that crosses Tvärån.
When you arrive at the highest point of the stretch, 830 meters above sea level, you can gaze out over the forest-draped Vålådal sink and the surrounding mountains to the south. Which we did of course.
Once past the Stensån, a thick forest is the primary backdrop for the rest of the hike. It’s less than pleasant during mosquito season, and believe me, those bloodsuckers will have a feast. One of our group even managed to twist her ankle, making the final stretch feel more like a frantic dash.
We made it to Vålådalens Fjällstation before 1 PM, used the extra hours for waffles, showers, and gathering train snacks. If you can, consider staying the night at Vålådalen, especially if any injuries happened — the train and bus ride can be a bit much.
It didn’t take us that long before we started to discuss our next adventure.
Hope you enjoyed it.
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