Sri Lanka is an absolutely beautiful country.
But it’s a really annoying kind of beautiful. It’s the kind that can only exist in a memory because it’s impossible to capture just how incredible she looks on camera. Photos will never do justice and the phrase “pics or it didn’t happen” can send those lucky enough to spend any time with her into a discouraged, forlorn frenzy. And if you want a taste, she’ll make you work for it too. It won’t be easy but damn is she fucking worth it.
There’s no such thing as love at first sight with Sri Lanka. She doesn’t give the greatest first impression. Most visitors will be introduced to her by Colombo, a loud, crowded, bedraggled mess of a city. The air isn’t the cleanest, blaring car horns are ubiquitous, and out-of-towners can expect a host of aggressive touts and passing stares. But don’t let all that fool you. The capital city’s unique charm will grow on you over time but it’s likely your initial impressions will belie Sri Lanka’s true allure. She’s worth a second pass though, trust me.
That said, simply getting a glimpse of her beauty is no easy task. Sri Lanka’s quite shy. She keeps her best sides tucked away, accessible only to those willing to invest their time and effort in her. She has one of the most vibrant panoramic landscapes I’ve ever seen but you’d never know without climbing 1,200 steps to the Sigiriya Citadel or 8,000 feet to Adam’s Peak. The wildlife is charming and exotic but you’d be hard-pressed to spot any without a little luck and a long trek into Yala National Park or to the bottom of the ocean off Hikkaduwa.
But all Sri Lanka wants is to know you care. She’s had a rough past, of course she’ll be a bit closed off at first. As long as you’re patient, treat her well, and commit to her, she’ll open up over time and damn will she be a sight to behold.
On the surface, taking the train doesn’t sound like a very romantic activity. It certainly didn’t cross my mind when I was planning my courtship of Sri Lanka. I was advised by many to do so but admittedly, I was skeptical. After all, the Ceylon trains are hardly the embodiment of grace and beauty. They’re old, decrepit, lumbering monstrosities - loud, hot, crowded beasts that pale in comparison to the bullet trains and maglevs that connect the rest of Asia. But like any worthwhile woman, Sri Lanka was full of surprises and it was on those trains that I truly fell in love.
I rode the train on several occasions during my time with Sri Lanka, most notably from Colombo to Kandy and then from Kandy to Ella several days later. The ride from Colombo to Kandy was like any first date - it got off to an awkward and uncomfortable start. First, a friendly gentleman insisted on showing me to my seat then demanded a tip for his “service.” Then, the ceiling fan in my non-air conditioned train carriage broke, leaving passengers to stew in the torrid heat of its stuffy interior. It was a bumpy start but I remained positive. I knew things would turn up in a heartbeat.
As the train pulled out of Colombo Fort Rail Station, the hustle and bustle of the capital city quickly melted away, replaced by Sri Lanka’s gorgeous countryside. Grassy knolls reached far into the distance, converging with the bright blue sky at the horizon. A wealth of bushes, trees, and other vegetation added texture to the scenery zipping by. A cool breeze whipped through the carriage’s windows softening the heat of the afternoon. As our train plowed through the vast green expanse, I could sense that Sri Lanka was slowly starting to open up. We were connecting and the seeds of love had been sown.
If that ride to Kandy was our first date, then the subsequent ride was when our love truly blossomed. It was like Aladdin and Jasmine’s magic carpet ride or Belle and the Beast’s romp through the snow - that transformative moment when the sparks started to fly. But I didn’t need a romantic ballad like A Whole New World or Something There to accompany the journey. All I needed was a good seat to enjoy the view.
However, no good love story is without its uncertain moments and unfortunately, favorable seating wasn’t that easy to come by. Upon boarding the train to Ella, I found myself relegated to the third-class cabin tragically stuck in an aisle seat, three positions removed from the window. If I wanted to make this relationship work, I was going to have to get creative with my courtship.
If you ever visit Sri Lanka and find yourself in this position, here’s a tip. As soon as the train leaves, ditch your seat, head to the back of the car, and take a seat on the floor with your legs hanging out one of the side doors that will inevitably be wide open. It’s by far the best seat in the house and will afford you an immaculate view of the passing countryside. Be forewarned though, countless individuals will come by and linger throughout the trip, hoping you’ll vacate your premium seating. But firmly stand your ground. It’s what Sri Lanka would want, a man that fights for her.
The ride that ensued was a spectacle for the ages. Sri Lanka treated me to a dazzling array of spectacular, jaw-dropping scenery. Forgive me for being improper but damn was she a voluptuous lass. I was enchanted with her curves and as we snaked through every inch of her astounding topography, the train ride became our dirty dance.
Sri Lanka’s most striking feature was her radiant hue. I spent the entire five hour train ride ensconced in vivid green colors. Kermit said it wasn’t easy but Sri Lanka did it effortlessly. Verdant fields stretched as far as the eye could see. Lush meadows posed elegantly for passing cameras. Blades of grass rocked back and forth as our train darted by. When the hot sun became too unbearable, seemingly infinite forests would reach their towering trees to the sky to provide us with shade. And then there was my favorite, the absolutely stunning tea terraces. Endless rows of tea plants wrapped snugly around rolling hills and plunging valleys that gracefully undulated back and forth towards the horizon. The mere sight of it made me weak in the knees.
When people hike, they’re usually seeking some visual pay-off at the culmination of the trail, perhaps a scenic lookout or a sensational view. But that train ride from Kandy to Ella offered me a ravishing view for five straight breathtaking hours. And with each passing moment I only fell more hopelessly in love.
As the trip wore on, Sri Lanka continued to open up and share more of her unique quirks each one leaving me more enamored with her than the last. She was an introvert but fiercely independent, relishing any chance to escape on her own. Small, quaint towns were dotted throughout the countryside and it wasn’t uncommon to see locals ambling casually alongside the rails, miles away from the nearest sign of civilization.
She was quite enterprising as well though a bit of a traditionalist. The tea terraces were sprinkled with hard-working women combing the endless rows of vegetation for tea leaves to fill the baskets on their backs. They deliberately eschewed modern-day machinery, opting for a more ambitious hand-picked approach that resulted in a pure and unadulterated product.
She wasn’t afraid of the dark either. A host of unlit tunnels bore through hills and bathed the entire train in pitch black every time we passed through. Sri Lanka wasn’t without her flaws though. She admitted to being a bit of a hoarder and I sporadically spotted old, rusted train carriages lying on their sides by the rails every now and then.
But perhaps most memorable was her magnetic charm. She may have been quiet and soft-spoken but she always wore a smile on her face. We passed a great deal of locals throughout that ride and they almost always waved at us enthusiastically, none more so than the beaming school children.
I caught myself smiling as well as our carriage finally pulled into the Ella Train Station. I couldn’t believe what my very own eyes had just seen. It felt like a dream, a surreal experience ripped from the pages of fiction. How could I have been so lucky to spend those five magical hours with Sri Lanka and bear witness to her resplendent beauty? By then, I had less than a week remaining with her but that smile lingered right until I left for home.
Don’t worry baby. I’ll be back for you.
