Amanohashidate and Ine Funaya
nothing but beautiful
天桥立的松本，来自日月自然的播种
The pines of Amanohashidate are sown by the natural forces of the sun and moon.
I have several travel books about Japan written by Taiwanese authors, and the one that left the deepest impression on me was the description of Amanohashidate 天桥立. I have always want to visit it. I have visited Kyoto three times in the past four years, in summer, autumn and spring. Now it is winter, and I finally made up my mind to go.
When we set out, I felt just like the twice-yearly spring and autumn outings organized by our school when I was a child. I was very excited and looking forward to it.
The two-hour train ride offered a chance to take in the changing scenery. The winter fields still reflected the afterglow of the autumn harvest. As the bustling city faded into the distance, I found myself gradually immersed in the strong, rural atmosphere.
Amanohashidate
Amanohashidate has four major views:
Sesshu-ko-no-Tsuki-no-Tsuki Shrine on the east side of Miyazu Bay
Ichiji Temple on Ouchi Ridge on the west side of Miyazu Bay
Shoryu-kan in Kasamatsu Park on the north side of Miyazu Bay
Hiryu-kan Temple (Gu-kan Temple) on the Wenshu Mountain on the south side of Miyazu Bay
TThis is the Amanohashidate depicted by the ancient artist Sesshū, which is from the famous Sesshū lookout at Inari Shrine on Shishizaki, on the eastern side of Miyazu Bay.
With limited time for this trip and it being winter, relying solely on public transportation meant we could only visit one or two easily accessible attractions.
Stepping off the train at Amanohashidate Station, life instantly slowed to a pace tens of times slower than in Kyoto. The scenery here is entirely different from the bustling gourmet capital of Osaka or the ancient charm of Kyoto. This is a divinely gifted tranquil land, free from the crowds of tourists that weave in and out like clouds. Instead, there are blue skies, clear seas, verdant mountains, and pristine waters. The secluded beauty of the Tango Peninsula has long been a haven for scholars, poets, and the cultured residents of old Kyoto, who consider it Japan’s most romantic nostalgic site.
This is Chionji Temple, where my journey to Amanohashidate begins.
Just after the New Year, some people tie small fans to pine branches to pray for good fortune.
There is a small speedboat nearby that costs 1,000 yen to go to Kasamatsu Park on the other side for a round trip. However, due to heavy rain, we had to give up the plan of renting a bicycle and take a speedboat instead.
From the speedboat, I could see the sandbank of Amanohashidate, covered with dark green pine forests, lying peacefully on the sea like a flowing silk ribbon.
According to legend, Amanohashidate was once the ladder of Izanagino Omikami, the god of Izanagino, who used it to descend to the earth to visit the goddess of Izanamino Omikami at Manai Shrine. However, the bridge unexpectedly collapsed on the earth, and it became the Amanohashidate we see today.
On the way to the Kasamatsu Park cable car station, you pass by the Motoise Kono Shrine, known as the first shrine of the Tango Province (丹后一の宫). It is said to have been established in the mythological era, with a history so ancient that it is impossible to verify. The shrine primarily enshrines the sun goddess Amaterasu and the sea god, offering protection for the safety and bountiful harvest of the local fishing industry. The shrine’s important cultural property, the “Hakuken” (Guardian Dogs), serves as protective charms, placed respectfully at the entrance or in front of the main hall. The one on the left, with a closed mouth, is called “Agyo,” while the one on the right, with an open mouth, is “Ungyo.” It is said that these guardian dogs originated from Central Asia and India, and only after arriving in Japan through Korea did they become known as “Hakuken” (Korean dogs).
Kasamatsu Park Cable Car Station, where you can take the cable car up the mountain
As the cable car gradually ascends, Amanohashidate, like a crouching dragon, slowly comes into view.
Amanohashidate (Japanese: あまのはしだて, also translated as “Bridge to Heaven”) is located in the Miyazu Bay of Miyazu City, in the northern part of Kyoto Prefecture. It is a unique natural landscape formed by tectonic activity that created a sandbar stretching across the sea. The Japanese refer to it as “Tango’s Amanohashidate” (丹后の天桥立). Together with Miyajima in Aki (now called Itsukushima) and Matsushima in Mutsu, it is known as one of Japan’s “Three Scenic Views.” Locally, it is often called “Kyoto by the Sea” because it is located in the northern part of Kyoto Prefecture and extends into Miyazu Bay, facing the Sea of Japan. The Japanese also refer to it as “Tango’s Amanohashidate.”
A sand embankment with a total length of about 3.6 kilometers and a width of 20 meters at its narrowest and 170 meters at its widest, which was raised due to the pushing of the earth’s crust. There is a natural Japanese black forest and more than 6,000 pine trees on the terrain. To the west is the inland sea of Aso Sea and to the east is Miyazu Bay.
The Shoryu-kan Temple, seen from Kasamatsu Park on the north side of Miyazu Bay, looks like a dragon about to fly into the sky.
Because of the winter rain, the scenery changes every moment.
The rain has stopped and the sun is shining, the sea is glittering
Even the scales of light are sometimes bright and sometimes dim…
Soon it started to drizzle again, and the sea was covered with mist.
At this time, the sky was overcast and it started to rain heavily. We had to find a place to take shelter from the rain.
Seeing the wonders of Amanohashidate as magnificent as the “Niri Ichimonji” made me stare at it for a long time and I didn’t want to leave
Bending over to create a “Matanozoki「股の 」” view, this is my photo of Amanohashidate taken through my legs. From this perspective, the sandbar appears to stretch from the land up towards the sky like a bridge. Visitors here often try this unique way of viewing Amanohashidate, experiencing the “upside-down” bridge through their legs.
From the top of the mountain you can see the sea and the beautiful scenery
Mist can be seen between the peaks
After descending from Kasamatsu Park, we took a speedboat back to the south bank and found a restaurant to have lunch. In the afternoon, we were ready to go to our next destination, Ine Funaya.
Ine Funaya
There is only one bus to Ine Funaya, which has about dozens of stops. It takes an hour but only costs 400 yen, which is less than three dollars in total. Japanese buses are really punctual, cheap and considerate.
I later realized that taking the bus from Kasamatsu Park to the Ine Funaya only takes about half an hour, but returning to the southern shore on the same bus route takes more than an hour.
Although it takes half an hour longer on the road, the sea view along the way is unforgettable and magnificent, worth the time.
I got off the bus here. Ine Funaya is located in the northeastern part of Tango Peninsula in Kyoto Prefecture, across the Wakasa Bay from Fukui Prefecture.
It was still raining very cold and the wind was blowing fiercely. It was too cold to take pictures with my hands holding my phone.
From the video you can hear it’s hail falling
The small fishing village is so quiet that even the sound of falling leaves is clear. Walking through the streets and alleys, the old boat houses, lined up one after another, present an unpretentious visual experience. Standing on the street and looking at the boat houses, you can see the boats moored in this sheltered harbor, with various fishing tools filling the entire space. Everything feels rustic, old, yet authentic.
Yet, this place remains captivating, precisely because of its unique local scenery: the boat houses. These wooden structures are built along the coastline, with the first floor serving as a dock for boats and the second floor or rear building as the living quarters.
It is said that it has a history of 1,700 years.
The beauty of Ine also lies in its tranquility. Although the sea is just outside, Ine is situated in a bay, where the waters are almost always calm, with big waves being a rare occurrence. The sea, with its patches of deep blue and emerald green, never fails to capture the attention and hearts of travelers.
Due to the cold weather, there were very few tourists, and the boat tours were not operating. As a result, I missed the chance to take a small boat or larger vessel to cruise Ine Bay and see the row of old wooden houses from the sea. Along the approximately five-kilometer coastline of Ine Bay, there are over 230 of these houses, where the boats on the first floor and the daily lives of residents on the second floor blend to create the most authentic scenes.
If you want to take a slow tour of Ine , you can choose to ride a bicycle, and there are even many fishing trips in the area. The best way is to stay in a local homestay for a night and experience the simplicity and slow time of the small fishing village. I can only come back next time in spring or autumn when the weather is better.
This island is called Qingdao (Green Island)
Walking in the lonely streets of Ine, I don’t feel lonely at all
The rows of old houses are neat and simple, orderly, and the ground is clean and dust-free.
Suddenly I came across a coffee shop that was still open and quite crowded, so I went up to the second floor and saw this very beautiful sea view.
At this time, order a cup of hot coffee, certainly will warm your body and heart.
It was getting dark and it was getting late, so I took the bus back to the hotel.
That night we stayed at the Inn Seikiro 「清辉楼」, which was founded during the Genroku period (元禄).
It has also been designated as a museum by the local government.
Since its establishment in 1758, Seikiro, which overlooks the beautiful scenery of Amanohashidate, has always been a favorite of literati and poets. From the cultural heritage left by the Tosa and Kano school painters of the Edo period, and the writers Noguchi Ujo, Kikuchi Kan and Yoshikawa Eiji of the Meiji period, to today’s reception of Japanese craftsmen and frequent exhibitions, do you want to experience the experience of being surrounded by famous calligraphy and poetry? It’s a rare opportunity to stay here.
It’s a pity that I checked in too late and the hostress didn’t speak English. Due to communication difficulties, I didn’t realize the importance of this historic building of this Inn. The Sesshu-kan of Shizizaki Inari Shrine on the east side of Miyazu Bay is near this building. I missed it. It’s a pity. I can only make up for it next time.
The “Blue Dragon Lying on the Waves” seen from the second-floor window of the Soryu Pavilion refers to the Amanohashidate Sandbar seen from the third floor, which is like a sleeping dragon. This is the Sesshu Kan
The “Soryu Wabo (Blue Dragon Lying on the Waves)” view from the second-floor Soryukaku苍龙阁 window refers to the sight of the Amanohashidate sandbar from the third floor, where it resembles a lying dragon on the sea. This is the famous Sesshū view I mentioned in the beginning.
The rooms are very elegantly decorated. Coming to Seikiro Inn is like visiting a relative who loves to collect art. You have your own space and the hosts never bother you.
But once I walked out of the room, it was like being alone in a hotel, so quiet that only the sound of the breeze blowing through the paper door could be heard.
Passing through the “Bunjin no Ma「文人の间」”, you can admire cultural artifacts from the Meiji era, such as regular guest Eiji Yoshikawa’s Romance of the Three Kingdoms《三国志》, a guestbook signed by Kan Kikuchi, and Shigeru Yoshida’s handwritten Fukai Jusan (“Prosperity as Vast as the Sea and Longevity as Great as the Mountain”). You can enjoy these treasures undisturbed or stroll through the corridors to appreciate the precious paintings and calligraphy from the Edo period. Finally, a dip in the warm, amber-colored waters of Miyazu Onsen will gently lull you to sleep.
Tatami bedrooms have always been my favorite, and the paper-walled sliding doors are so classical and elegant.
At night, the rustling sound is the sound of socks rubbing against the tatami.
When I woke up on a pillow filled with buckwheat seeds, the courtyard outside was already covered with pure white snow. Seikiro Inn is so mysterious.
Enjoy the rich breakfast provided by the hotel
The snow that fell all night really gave me a surprise. I think I must not miss going hiking to take pictures of the snow in Amanohashidate at this time.
No one was walking on the road, only me walking alone on the snow, making a beautiful rustling sound.
So I came to the cable car station at the foot of Wenshu Mountain. I was the first person to arrive and wait. The waiters were still coming to prepare.
In addition to Kasamatsu Park, there is also the “Feiryu-kan” observation deck on the opposite bank of the Wenshu Mountain, which is recognized as the best viewing spot. Both are located on two hills, and you can see Amanohashidate from different angles. “Feiryu-kan” is a later developed observation deck, but it is recognized as the best viewing spot.
The cable car went up all the way. It was snowing heavily. The mountains were covered with pure white powders.
Climbing up the Wenshu Mountain, the silver Feilong Temple appears before your eyes
It’s really beautiful
At this moment, Amanohashidate is like a blue dragon lying on the sea
It is also like a blue dragon trying to fly away
I seemed to see the shadows of Su Causeway and Bai Causeway on West Lake in my hometown, equally elegant and refined, as if they were traces left by the willful stroke of heaven on earth, yet seamless and magical, worthy of endless praise.
I was enjoying the beautiful scenery given by God in the flying snow, and just wanted to take more photos with my mobile phone as a permanent memory.
Looking out to the sea outside Amanohashidate, it is covered in a sea of somthing, and it is difficult to tell whether it is water or fog.
The reason why I love Amanohashidate so much is because it has the same tranquility and spirituality as West Lake. This feeling has been with me for half my life and is unforgettable.
I reluctantly said goodbye to Amanohashidate and returned to Kyoto. I felt a little satisfied, but also a little regretful. Although I did a lot of research before coming here, I still missed some important attractions. I hope I will have the opportunity to revisit them again.
Updated on 07–13–2024
