How to Use Vitamin C in Your Skincare Routine

I’m sure you’ve heard about vitamin C many, many times in your life. It is an essential element of a healthy diet and a strong ally for your immune system. Let’s learn why and how you should use it in your skincare routine.

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Vitamin C and it’s forms

Vitamin C, called ascorbic acid, is a vitamin that is not produced by the body, so the only ways to provide it are through diet, supplementation or application of the skincare products. It plays an important role in proper functioning of your body. It stimulates synthesis of collagen, enhancing the speed of wound healing. As a strong antioxidant, it protects the body against free radicals. It also helps to lower blood pressure and regulates blood glucose levels.

Vitamin C is most often associated with L-ascorbic acid. It is a pure and active form of vitamin C. However it is unstable and can cause irritation, which is why modified forms of vitamin C are more often used in cosmetics. Vitamin C derivatives are more friendly forms of this antioxidant that show greater stability and bring other benefits for the skin.

Forms of Vitamin C:

• L- Ascorbic Acid (pure vitamin C) is an active form of vitamin C, which is characterized by high effectiveness and high instability. It is easily oxidized when exposed to heat, light and air, but remains stable at pH 3.5 or lower. It can be found in serum or ampoules.
• Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a more stable form of vitamin C. It has more difficulty to penetrate the deeper layers of the skin and has lower antioxidant activity. It remains stable in neutral to slightly acidic pH, which is why it is most often found in emulsions, anti-aging facial serums, and is also used as a supporting ingredient in face masks containing plant extracts. MAP causes less irritation than the pure form of vitamin C, so it is recommended for sensitive skin.
• Ascorbyl Glucoside penetrates into the deeper layers of the skin where it is slowly decomposed, releasing the free form of vitamin C. It has a beneficial effect in a larger pH range, which makes it a good ingredient of many different cosmetics. It is more gentle and stable than L-ascorbic acid.
• Ascorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble equivalent of ascorbic acid. It is characterized by high stability, but after application it quickly converts to the pure form of vitamin C. It requires the addition of penetration promoters — most often these are low molecular weight alcohols, which may cause irritation, so it is not recommended to use them on sensitive or damaged skin.
• Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stable form of vitamin C (you can recognize it as a yellow oil). It penetrates deeper layers of the skin very well and is highly effective even at low concentrations, which is why it is added to everyday creams and anti-aging masks. It is said to be the most effective form of vitamin C, providing strong anti-aging and brightening effects.

Why should I use vitamin C?

• it brightens your skin
• it helps to reduce redness and even out your skin tone
• it promotes collagen production
• it is safe for most types of the skin (when used in a right form)
• it supports proper hydration of the skin
• it protects against free radicals
• it reduces appearance of under-eye circles
• it helps to reduce hyperpigmentation
• it protects the skin from consequences of sun damage

What skincare products contain vitamin C?

Vitamin C has recently become a hot trend in skincare. That’s why you can find it in cosmetics used in almost every step of your skincare routine. It is important to find the right formula for your needs. Your options are:

• moisturizers used in the morning or evening skincare.
• serum containing more concentrated amounts of active ingredients. They work more efficiently, but can also cause irritation, if not suitable for the skin type.
• masks that ensure a concentrated boost of nourishing energy, usually used in the nighttime routine.
• toners that provide an antioxidant effect, while strengthening the blood vessels and brightening the skin.
• cleansers to start the skincare routine with a vitamin boost.
• makeup bases, foundations, concealers, BB and CC creams to help even out the skin tone even further.

What active ingredients can be mixed with vitamin C?

• SPF

Vitamin C is one of the strongest antioxidants, protecting skin from premature aging. SPF has similar qualities thanks to the reflection of UVA and UVB radiation. These two substances create a strong duo that will prevent dark spots, pigmentation and sun damage. It’s recommended to use it every morning.

• Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid and vitamin C is another skincare duo that can be used safely. Vitamin C protects the skin from free radicals and brightens it. Hyaluronic acid provides hydration and makes the skin plump and dewy. Working together, they create synergy and enhance each other’s beneficial qualities. If you decide to use them in the morning, start with hyaluronic acid serum, layer in with vitamin C and don’t forget about SPF.

What active ingredients can’t be mixed with Vitamin C?

• Niacinamide

Using niacinamide and vitamin C together does not make sense. Due to the difference in their pH, these substances deactivate each other. The combination of vitamin C and niacinamide may result in the formation of an irritating compound called nicotinic acid. This is because most forms of vitamin C work most effectively in a low, acidic pH, while niacinamide is converted to nicotinic acid in such an environment.

• AHA/BHA

Both of these substances can bring great effects when used properly. Using them together though, is counterproductive. Combining vitamin C with AHA/BHA will destabilize the pH balance and not allow the active ingredients to work. Therefore, it is worth using these active substances in separate skincare routines — vitamin C in the morning, and products with acids in the evening.

• Retinol

Using retinol and vitamin C together is not advised. They neutralize each other so applying them in the same routine will not bring you any beneficial effect. The most optimal is using vitamin C in the morning and retinol in the nighttime skincare routine.

If you want to learn more about mixing active ingredients, check out my previous article: Build Your Skincare Routine: How to Combine the Active Ingredients in Your Skincare