Portugal is a Must Visit for Its Sunset Sails, Quaint Lanes and Kind People
Practical tips, itinerary cues and experience.
If I ever have to pick a city for the second time, I would pick Lisbon, primarily for its people. Oh, what a fun bunch of chilled-out folks quipping and jesting, all on a collective mission to shoo away all undertones of travel anxiety in a new place. Like most other European cities, Lisbon offers a plethora of things to do and places to see, but it stands out because when people genuinely care, genuinely smile, and offer warm welcomes, everything feels better.
We were in Lisbon for four days and, like always, we did a LOT. But we returned with a faint feeling that we could have spent a few more evenings soaking in the views from Miradouro das Portas do Sol or basking in the golden and pink hues of the setting sun from a sailboat.
Google will immediately give you a list of Lisbon must-dos but if you like to do things a little out of the ordinary, here are some recommendations. Are we crazy adventure travellers? No. But between my reluctance and my husband’s persistence, we often end up collecting bizarre stories.
Here are some quick highlights from our trip that I hope will help you plan your itinerary. There are links peppered all along, so you don’t have to go hunting on the internet. You can thank me later.
Lisbon Sunset Cruise on River Tagus
While river cruises are all the craze in European cities, the one in Lisbon is truly worth it. And for a good reason: Tagus takes a mighty form as it approaches Lisbon, minutes away from joining the Atlantic Ocean. The river here is so wide that you can’t see the other shore in most places. Locals also told us that even though it is a freshwater river that starts in Spain, it gets salty by the time it reaches Lisbon because of its proximity to the ocean.
We procrastinated on booking a sunset tour till the night before we were to fly out. By then, all that was left was a scanty list. Honestly, it was a blessing in disguise because out of the three options, we found one that wasn’t marketing as a sunset cruise but as sailing. The description mentioned that the focus is not on touching tourist spots (though as we passed by the city, they happily answered all questions). It was an experience and not just a cruise; exactly what we were looking for.
We were welcomed by Leo and Tona, sailors at heart, who invite strangers on their sailboat better than friends. “There are life jackets in the hull should you need them. It’s not mandatory for anyone to wear them. Trust me and this boat, it won’t topple over. It’s basic physics,” he briefed us before we left the boat parking lot. Leo even explained the nitty-gritty of sailing and invited people to take the wheel. We were on the boat for about two-and-a-half hours, befriending people from the world over, chatting, sipping wine while nibbling on local cheese and enjoying the cool river breeze. Highly recommend sailing with them if you’re ever in Lisbon.
It was like being on a friend’s boat.
Quick Note: We prefer to book our experiences from Viator. We have realised we can trust them with our time.
Dinner in Alfama, Lisbon
When people of the host country are nice, they create a safe environment where travellers, even foreigners, feel comfortable opening up and being themselves. We left the sunset cruise with a friend and then parted ways to freshen up with a promise to meet again. Walking up and down the quaint narrow lanes of Alfama — the old, traditional neighbourhood of Lisbon — we found a small restaurant with a couple of outdoor tables in the shadow of Sé de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cathedral) for dinner. The place is called Santa Restaurant & Bar, and it’s nice if you’re looking for a chill evening with good music. We picked an outdoor table to enjoy the typical European setting of sitting so close to the road that you can imagine giving a passerby a random fist bump. It was late, the peak hours had passed, and we found ourselves perched on a table — me, my husband and our two-hour-old friend — with light early summer breeze, a game of shadow and light on our faces thanks to the nearby lamp post, and an eager server: Junio.
“Hey! That’s a nice name.”
“Don’t even begin,” he said. “You know why I am called Junio? Because I was born in June,” he scoffed. “That’s what happens when you are 15 siblings.”
“WHAT!? 15?”
“Yeah, yeah…but not from the same mother. Don’t worry,” he laughed.
Junio was a happy guy. He entertained us with his anecdotes as he took our order, laughing, getting excited and excusing himself mid-conversation because he had other tables to attend, but with an earnest promise to return to finish his story. He recommended the best Portuguese wine — Condo Vimioso, Sommelier Edition (a Portuguese red wine) — and brought his favourite dishes from the menu. As the clock inched closer to midnight and it was time to close, Junio got his sandwich and beer to sit with us. We continued to chill with him, listening to his stories like we were on a mission to befriend him in a limited time and hence needed to know all about him, much after we had finished our meal. It was surreal and comforting.
It was like being at a friend’s cafe.
Quick Note: Like me, if you too are not a seafood lover, listen up! Seafood dominates the Portuguese food scene, so be prepared to go hunting for (cooked) chicken and vegetarian food. The restaurants shut down relatively early, so ensure you eat in time. We recommend catching a drink post-dinner at a chill bar or one of the viewpoints. Oh, which reminds me…
Viewpoints of Lisbon
Lisbon is a tedious city. Made of seven hills, please be ready to walk up and down narrow roads a lot. And because it has waters on one side and hills on the other, there is only one logical thing to do: find edges on those hills for some relaxing views (Europe is obsessed with panoramic views). And so we did. But here’s what I want to tell you: not all views can be enjoyed with a drink and a bite in the hand unless you plan to carry your picnic baskets up. We walked to many viewpoints and found ourselves returning rather quickly, except this one: Miradouro das Portas do Sol. It’s in Alfama — where we were staying; an old district in Lisbon — directly accessible by the iconic Tram 28 if you don’t want to walk. The best part? There is a tiny kiosk — self-service — that serves drinks (alcoholic and non-alcoholic) and small bites. Pick a relatively lesser crowded time and sit here overlooking the typical orange roofs smooshed into each other, panning out to the glimmering blue waters.
It was like being on a friend’s terrace.
Quick Note: Miradouro das Portas do Sol gets crowded around sunset. So plan accordingly. We recommend a late-night-ish plan for a pleasant evening here. The kiosk serves till midnight.
Quick Note: No fancy shoes in Lisbon, please. The streets are cobbled through and through, and they are slippery. Get a good pair of walking shoes.
Public Transport in Lisbon and Around
Throughout our Europe vacations, we prefer taking public transport for myriad reasons. But public transport in Lisbon — the vintage trams, the bus network within the city and trains to distant destinations — is so efficient that we chose to hop on them than hail a cab. The best part? You can buy tickets from the driver of the tram/bus you board. It’s a little more expensive (perhaps by 50 cents per person per trip) than getting a travel pass, but we didn’t feel the need to get into that.
Quick Note: We went to Cascais from Lisbon via a train from Cais de Sodre, and it’s a beautiful ride. The train runs over the ground all along the coast. We then caught a bus from Cascais to Cabo da Roca — the Western tip of Continental Europe. It’s very well connected, and the bus stand is adjacent to the Cascais train station. You can choose to cover Cabo da Roca and some other nearby places by booking a day trip too.
Quick Note: Tram 28 looks picturesque at every turn. But you got to be outside of it to take that picture. We didn’t quite get the hype of being on it. But if you’re tired of walking, it’s a great way to get to the top. We preferred to walk the area.
If you’re not someone who prefers public transport, you’ll still have a fantastic time in Portugal. The cabbies that drove us around (primarily to and from the airport) were so warm that we were left scrambling for ways to appreciate them beyond the five-star rating and a tip. While many of us don’t appreciate chatty cab drivers, I think that changes when you’re in a new city. Oftentimes, the first local you meet in a foreign land — your cab driver — occupies a powerful position in setting the tone for your impending vacation. And Portuguese cabbies set the tone just right. They inquired, relayed local information, asked about our opinions and made the drive so welcoming. And yes, cabs in Portugal are pretty affordable.
Quick Note: Uber is great but expensive in Europe. An efficient and affordable alternative is FREE Now. We suggest you quickly compare rates before calling one.
Nature Over Monuments
Monuments don’t interest us as much as nature does. Please don’t get me wrong, we still appreciate them and their history but personally lean towards nature. Him, more than I. We walked past most of the internet-recommended places, educating ourselves with the stories from the Era of Exploration, but without getting inside the towers and buildings. But put Belém on your list if you are interested in history, you will not be disappointed.
Since this plan was born because we were craving beaches, we were more interested in those. But oh, the nature around Portugal! We just couldn’t get enough of the Atlantic, no matter how many angles and points we saw it from. And like mice desperate for a bite of cheese, even if it means putting life in peril, we went on an impromptu and arduous trek from a cliff top, down to a secluded beach: Praia da Ursa.
Was it a collective idea? Nope. He is the permanent map guy, always looking for curious things around us. And I go along. Often reluctantly.
We were on a cliff edge when he pointed to a beach far down and said, “That’s it! That is where we have to go!”
It was far, like far-far. And the climb looked tough (Yes, I was already thinking about the climb). I refused to trek down at every step and tried convincing him that the views from up top were gorgeous as they were, that we had a bus to catch and that we were probably not wearing the correct shoes. All in vain. We were largely alone on the beautiful cliffs that looked decoupaged with purple, red and yellow shrubs and succulents. We followed narrow trails and reached many dead ends. And each time, I prayed for it to be the end of our exploration. We hadn’t descended much and were still a comfortable distance from the bus point.
But, no.
Are you even an adventurer without copious amounts of the never-say-die spirit? We eventually found our way, and he endured the rough terrain and my constant bickering. We even nudged some climbing trekkers, and they assured us — squealing through their huffs and pants — that the reward at the end of this trek was well worth it. We couldn’t have turned around to return anyway; we had come a long way. We were only looking for some encouragement.
After 40–45 minutes, as we took the last turn, the beach revealed itself — golden sand, mighty waves, and shades of blue that I was probably seeing for the first time. Tons of intimate pairs walked around holding hands, getting toasted in the sun, leaving footprints in the sand that got wiped out every 10 seconds. Butt naked.
I think nudity bothers us because we have a problem with accepting ourselves in our skin. And that’s probably why we get baffled when we see others being so comfortable in theirs. It was our first time at a nude beach, and it took us about a minute to get a hold of our surroundings. The curtains of conditioning — years and years of it — got lifted, and we eased in. I always thought I’d be extremely uncomfortable at a nude beach, but this was liberating.
The trek back — as expected — was gruelling. It was steep and rugged, and this time there was no breathtaking reward at the end of it. We took more than an hour to climb back up, with the clock constantly reminding us that we had a bus to catch; probably the last one for the evening. The late sunsets in Europe warp your sense of time. Huffing and panting and physically holding my heart that constantly threatened to jump out of my body, we made it back. And the moment we reached the bus stop, I knew it had become a story to tell. The bus came around soon, and though we didn’t get a seat and travelled the next hour standing on our fatigued legs, we couldn’t stop smiling.
Quick Note: There are tons of commercial beaches all along the way from Lisbon to Cascais and even around Cabo da Roca. So in case, you’re not in the mood for adventure, or random surprises, do a quick search. Reviews on Google for every spot help a great deal. I read them after coming back. Lesson learnt.
Day trips from Lisbon
Initially, our vacations used to be hurried to and fro between multiple cities. We quickly realised that that was a silly way of visiting any place. So, now we pick a city and spend all our time getting lost in it. And if we can, we spare a day for a small group tour to visit the nearby places.
There are tons of day trips from Lisbon, but we wanted a way to get to Nazaré: a small beach town known for its highest waves that turn this town into a surfer’s paradise in the winter months. The waves — from August to March — rise as high as 100 feet. We didn’t get to witness those but the summer waves weren’t forgiving either. The beach was dotted with sunbathers, but getting into the water wasn’t a thing.
Nazaré was one of the spots on our day tour. The others were: Fatima — a catholic pilgrimage; Batalha Monastery — a glorious example of gothic architecture that took over 100 years to build and is also a UNESCO World Heritage site; and Óbidos — a gorgeous walled town with barely 3,100 residents and breathtaking frames. Óbidos is also the birthplace of Ginja, a famed Portuguese liqueur made of sour cherries typically served in chocolate cups. A must-try.
Souvenirs and Practical Tips
Souvenir: I love bringing back souvenirs. But often, I have to settle for magnets because other artefacts are either too touristy or so bought to death — tiny Eiffel Towers are the best example — that they lose their charm.
But Portugal has been the best city for souvenirs so far because they make tons of things with — get this — cork wood. Portugal is the largest exporter of corks. And because cork trees are in abundance, they use the wood to also craft bags, purses, sun hats and more. It’s gorgeous and something that you’ll only find here. It is worth checking out.
Souvenir: The oldest operating bookstore in the world is in Lisbon. What better than this old town to be the home of a vintage book store. It’s called Livraria Bertrand — Chiado. It’s definitely worth a visit. They have a rather bleak collection of English books but if you decide to pick something, they will stamp it for you.
Food: Seafood lovers will have the best time of their lives. But for non-seafood lovers, please look for Frango Assado or Piri Piri chicken which is quite famous here. We had ours at Bom Jardim, a friendly (do I need to mention that anymore!?) restaurant perfect for lunch or early dinner. It’s popular, so be prepared to queue up in rush hours.
Dessert: Everyone will tell you to try the Pastel de Nata, a Portuguese dessert. It’s an egg custard settled into a crispy tart. You’ll find them across the city, but try them from their original home: Pastéis de Belém.
