Colombia, an unexpected story
Each trip needs surprises, and Colombia amazed me. I landed in this country expecting nothing but rampant gun violence, and people running home after dark to escape almost certain death. Essentially, I expected it to be like Baltimore, Chicago or Detroit.
Nevertheless, I was determined to visit Colombia so I solicited travel advice from a couple of friends before my plane took off for Medellin. I voiced my concern about a plane that seemed beaten up, and my friend said: “You’re going to Medellin, the plane is the least of your concerns.” My anxiety shot up. A second friend from Mexico said the same thing, warning me that it’s quite dangerous and to be watchful. My friends from Costa Rica offered the same warnings. I met a couple of backpackers in Mexico City from one of those IKEA countries, and they did not enjoy their trip through Colombia. They felt unsafe there and recommended Bolivia as an alternative because it was the best of the bunch.
They were not the first people to mention Bolivia as a go-to destination. A Brazilian I met at a friends birthday party said the same thing “Skip Chile and go to Bolivia, it’s incredible!” He said Bolivians were mean and they didn’t like Americans because the American obsession with quinoa has diverted all crops to the US and made the national food prohibitively expensive for common folk, who were now experiencing famine. Despite that, he said, the country is beautiful and home to some spectacular landscapes like the Uni Salt Flats.
Medellin
After landing at the Medellin airport the first order of business was the SIM card. It is difficult to get around abroad without a SIM. An internet connection is useful to stay connected with friends and family, and to navigate unknown towns by foot or to use public transport with the help of Google Maps. On top of navigation, Google Maps also help in finding a place for dinner. Finally, the internet on the phone is required for ordering an Uber and getting home safe at night. I find myself astounded by how Google has mapped out much of the world. Even remote villages of 300 residents in Oaxaca were fully mapped out with recommendations for taquerias.
A SIM card from Claro is available upstairs in the arrivals hall from a small souvenir shop. It’s 40,000 COP ($12 USD in 2018) for 1GB of data and 120 minutes of talk time. Services such as WhatsApp, Facebook, and Twitter do not count towards this data limit. This means that once mobile data runs out those services are still available for staying in touch with friends and family, which is incredibly convenient. Calls, photo and video sharing will be disabled, but standard messaging is going to work fine.
With a SIM card installed I ended up requesting my Uber. I decided against a local taxi because of the risk of kidnappings. The first three Uber cars I requested canceled on me. Just as I was about to give up on the fourth one, the driver texted me to ask if I spoke Spanish. I confirmed with “Sí” and he told me to make my way across the street to the stairwell, walk up two flights of stairs, look for a red sculpture in the parking lot, walk towards it, and make sure I’m not followed.
Of course, just as anyone completely oblivious and insane would do, I did exactly as he told me.
I learned from the driver that Uber is illegal in Colombia, or at best in a legal grey zone and the taxi lobby is strong and can be violent against Uber drivers. I needed to meet my driver away from the sight of police and cab drivers stationed at the arrivals hall. Uber drivers frequently ask passengers to sit in the front with them, so as not to arouse suspicion with cabbies and the police. All that said, I found Uber extremely safe and convenient in Medellin. They were non-existent in Cartagena, but cabs were plentiful and safe, although a rip-off.
Speaking of illegal activities, having a personal amount of pot is not illegal. One needs to be careful about where to smoke it, however, as it’s not permitted in many locations. It is also technically illegal to sell it, but the consensus seems to be that it is ok to buy one cigarette for personal use only. I did not take my chances. In my experience laws abroad are applied differently to tourists from locals, so it’s best to be cautious.
The thing that struck me the most was just how impeccably clean Medellin was. Coming from Mexico City, and over a dozen other cities around Latin America, I got used to seeing trash and filth everywhere, even in most serene remote locations of Yucatan and Costa Rica.
It is a city in a valley and it is a cultural center of Latin America. In particular, it is an exporter of fashion and music. Nearly all of the major Latin pop stars come from Colombia and live in Medellin. The city is artistic, it is clean, it is proud of itself and still healing from the years under Pablo Escobar.
I didn’t spend enough time in Medellin to truly get to know the city. I had barely 36 hours there and only a chance to scratch the surface of what it had to offer. What I took away from it was that its people are proud of the public transportation safety, cleanliness, and their beautiful women. I could not take an Uber without a driver asking me what I think of beautiful Colombian women. I’d nod in agreement but I kept my opinion of Colombian men to myself. Even though Colombians are incredibly gorgeous people, their Venezuelan neighbors somehow manage to take natural good looks to a whole new level.
Cartagena
I made my way to Cartagena after my unceremoniously short stay in Medellin. My thoughts on Cartagena are more complex. It’s a city I want to love, and by all means, deserves all the lavish praise people bestow on it.
Cartagena is probably the most well-preserved example of Spanish colonial architecture in Latin America. It is stunning, it is romantic, it feels like walking back into time. The ancient town has been fully restored to its former glory. The only city that can dethrone it is going to be Havana with some outside investments into restoration.
All beauty comes at a cost though, and I felt I didn’t like the price Cartagena demanded for its beauty. The city is flooded with people trying to separate tourists from money, whether it’s by giving incorrect change or selling fake goods, weed, cocaine, women, and even men. I was inundated at every corner, often by two or three people one after another.
I can understand the need to make a living and empathize with that. For me, my biggest weakness was when people would approach me and say something along the lines of “Hey please help me stay off the street” and “Please help me feed my family so I don’t have to steal”. My initial thought was that they could just get a job instead, and not steal, but in countries without a robust economy, this kind of bartering and trade passes for commerce and helps put food on the table.
I’d call the guys out occasionally and say they’re lying, but still, buy their stuff. I thought about it and at the end of the day I think they’re right, by buying some ridiculous bracelet that presumably helps with blood circulation, I am contributing into the economy and incentivizing the guy something to do besides pickpocketing and stealing.
Food in Cartagena was excellent, but the city lacks much of the Colombian culture. It is a city designed for and built around tourist tastes and budgets. Restaurants and bars can easily rival those in the US in terms of quality and cost. That said, there were a lot more European tourists than American ones.
Closing Thoughts
I loved Colombia, and in particular, I fell in love with Medellin. It is unfortunate that the bad reputation precedes it because the city is working hard to leave that past behind. The music scene is something I enjoyed quite a bit, I liked that people cared about how they carried themselves, and they cared about making good food, even if it was not the best food I’ve had.
Cartagena is a gorgeous city as long as visitors are prepared to be inundated by aggressive salesmen. I imagine it would not be much of a surprise for those travelers who tend to visit touristy destinations like Cancun and Puerto Vallarta. However, for those of us who try to experience the local life wherever we go, it can feel overwhelming at times.
