Surf, Sun and Sand; A Month in Jaco Costa Rica

Jocelyn Hellested
Nomad Things
Published in
9 min readNov 10, 2019

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Surf, sun, and sand. We arrived in Jaco, Costa Rica with high expectations of a month filled with those three things and sadly woke up our first morning to the pounding of incessant rain, murderous clouds, and not a ray of sunshine. It was October 13th and for anyone familiar with the weather patterns of this country, rain is to be expected. To be more specific, October is the rainiest month in Costa Rica. But what does that actually mean?

Should I travel to Costa Rica in October?

Sunset in Quepos, Costa Rica

Should the rainy season prevent you from traveling to Costa Rica? After a month exploring Jaco Beach and the surrounding area, I can tell you with certainty that it should not! Yes, our first two days were filled with quite a bit of rain but after a quick look at the weather radar, we discovered that a storm front was moving up the Pacific Coast. Our third day we awoke to the sweet chirping of birds and the sun showering us with a blanket of appreciated warmth; an escape from the deepening cold we left behind in Rochester, NY. After those first days, we found that although it would rain early mornings and a bit in the evening the hours between 9–2:30 pm were generally rain-free!

One bonus of visiting Costa Rica in October is the price of flights and accommodations are much lower than the high season. You’ll also avoid the herd of tourists that flood into the country during the dryer months. Jaco Beach, in particular, was great to visit during this time and I often found myself enjoying what felt to be a very large private beach.

Why Visit Jaco Beach?

As I mentioned before Brandon and I chose Jaco Beach for our first month to enjoy the surf, sand, and sun. We also felt it would be a nice transition from our life back in the states. In general, Costa Rica is well developed and you can enjoy many of the comforts of home. Everything comes at a price, however, and we were surprised that prices were comparable to the United States. If you are traveling on a budget, I’d suggest frequenting the local grocery stores and eating at home as you can easily find yourself spending $10 a meal at most restaurants. Lucky for us the main strip near Jaco Beach is equipped with several supermarket chains including a MegaSuper and MasxMenos in addition to many corner stores where you can find the essentials. If you can afford to spend a little more, however, you will not be disappointed by the variety of bars and restaurants on Avenida Pastor Diaz and the streets leading to the beach. Brandon and I aren’t exactly ‘party people’ but this town certainly has a reputation for being a party town; especially once the high season hits!

Ginormous tree in Monteverde National Cloud Forest Reserve

Jaco Beach is in a great central location; making it easy to access many other parts of the country. The capital, San Jose, is a short hour and a half drive making it very accessible. We also found it incredibly easy to make a weekend trip traveling by bus to the town of Quepos to visit the National Park, Manuel Antonio. By standing on the beachside of Avenida Pastor Diaz one can hail the TPQ busses heading south to Quepos. Tickets can be purchased upon boarding and as of November 2019 cost roughly 1300 colones. Be mindful that return tickets cost a little less (roughly 1255 colones) and must be purchased at the bus station before boarding. The bus passes through ever 1–2 hours making it a good option for those that aren’t interested in driving. Jaco is also relatively close to the Cloud Forest Reserve in Monteverde. You can rent a vehicle and make the roughly two-hour trip North or you can consider taking the four and a half hour bus which costs considerably less; only $2–5 as of November 2019. Whichever method you choose, be sure to look out the window as you drive through the lush green landscape!

If you are content to stay in one place during your trip there are certainly many activities in Jaco to keep you busy. Those looking to get out into nature and explore will not be disappointed. Below are just a few of the hidden gems we visited during our weekend adventures!

El Miro de Jaco

View of Jaco Beach from El Miro

El Miro is a must-see when visiting Jaco Beach. A short hike is rewarded by an absolutely breathtaking view of the beach as seen above. Located a little outside of town, one can get to the trailhead either by taking a taxi (red and yellow ones are legitimate!) or renting a vehicle. You can find the trail on the right side of Route 34 if you are heading from town. Park at the base of the trail and heed the signs that warn against driving up the trail…during our visit, one daring vehicle found itself turned on its side in a ditch. We didn’t stay long enough to see if they successfully rolled back out, but the scent of burnt rubber certainly followed us as we continued our walk.

Ruins of the incomplete restaurant/hotel at el Miro

The hike is an enjoyable 20–30 minutes depending on your speed up a slight incline. Listen for the rustling of leaves and you may be lucky enough to see monkeys playing in the trees above you! For a girl that has lived her whole life on the East Coast, it was a wonder to see those tiny monkey faces peering down at me from their natural habitat instead of a zoo.

The path will take you past several gorgeous outlooks of Jaco Beach. The land was originally intended to be a restaurant or hotel but construction was never completed. The ruins of the old structure are still standing and heighten the natural beauty of the area. As you walk up to the main structure you are followed by the brightly painted eyes of animals engraved on a mural winding its way up the path. It’s a shame the construction was never completed, but on the bright side, the space is now available to the public to explore and enjoy.

Ruins of the incomplete restaurant/hotel at El Miro

La Catarata Manantial De Agua Viva

If you have the opportunity to rent a bike or vehicle I highly suggest making the 20-minute drive to the Waterfall Agua Viva. The waterfall is located on private property but the gentleman maintains the path and lets tourists visit for a fee. If you are lucky he may even let you borrow a walking stick; something that turned out to be extremely helpful. The hike is about 2km and becomes fairly steep at times. In areas where the incline steepens the owner has added steps and rope railings to aid hikers. Be sure to bring plenty of water; you will need it! The majority of the hike is in the shade but there are a few sections in direct sunlight. If you are feeling daring and water levels are high you can even go for a swim in one of the pools leading up to the waterfall. During our visit, the water was raging and beautiful due to recent rainfall.

The falls themselves are gorgeous but the hike is also very enjoyable. As you walk along the path you will be serenaded by birds and the sound of flowing water. Keep an eye out for brightly colored frogs, but don’t get too close! These frogs are known as poison dart frogs and although they are beautiful to look at you’ll want to keep a safe distance. During our trip, we were lucky enough to spot an innocent-looking black and bright green little guy sitting along the edge of the trial. There is something a little unnerving about being in the presence of such a tiny animal with the ability to kill you. Needless to say, I looked from a safe distance while brave Brandon got close enough to take a couple of photos.

La Catarata Manantial De Agua Viva

You hear the falls before you see them and it’s at that moment that you become fully aware that you are about to witness something spectacular. The thundering sound of water connecting with earth pounds relentlessly until you are graced with a glimpse of the waterfall peeking out behind the trees. Brandon and I whipped out our phones to take a photo and with each step, the view became unbelievably better. Be prepared to get wet as you approach the falls and walk carefully. Brandon learned the hard way that wet rocks can be very slippery. For updated information regarding these falls, you can visit their facebook page.

Hermosa Beach

During our stay, we had the opportunity to take a beautiful drive over to Hermosa beach. The drive is around 20 minutes but if you do not have a vehicle you can very easily catch one of the public busses passing through Jaco. Every Saturday there is a local surf competition but even if you are unable to make it on the weekend there are usually surfers in the water enjoying the waves. We made our way to the beach on Sunday to enjoy the sunset as well as take advantage of free entertainment provided by highly skilled surfers. As its name suggests Hermosa is a gorgeous place to spend a few hours.

Surfing at Jaco Beach

Jaco Beach is an excellent place for anyone interested in surfing. You can expect to pay between $10–15 a day to rent a board but if you plan on renting for a longer period of time I would suggest working out a deal with one of the shops. It doesn’t hurt to ask and negotiate for a better price! Local surf reports can be found on the site magic seaweed. As a beginner, I suggest heading to the south end of the beach where the waves are kinder and sand finer. The north end tends to have large swells and the ground is covered by pebbles which make it a little more intimidating. Of course, I did not learn this until after my second attempt but, nonetheless, I managed to find a little success among the whitewash. If you are also new to the surfing scene Jaco has no shortage of instructors and even if you are not dressed to surf you will often be approached by instructors inquiring if you have an inkling to catch the waves. More on my initial experiences with surfing can be found in my previous blog. If you have your own board and want to go to a specific spot on the beach or try your luck at Hermosa you can certainly hail a taxi. The majority of them have racks and Brandon and I discovered that even if the driver does not have rope or bungee chords the surf leash can double as a device to secure the boards to the roof! You certainly begin to pick up on a few things the longer you stay in a place!

Sunset from the south end of Jaco Beach

Beach lovers, nature enthusiasts, and adventure-seekers are sure to enjoy their time in Jaco, Costa Rica. Whether it is for a week, month or longer, there is plenty to keep you busy! As for Brandon and I, we’ve savored our time by the seaside but are ready for the next adventure! Proxima parada, Cuenca, Ecuador…

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Jocelyn Hellested
Nomad Things

Currently in South America improving my Spanish, teaching English and finding the hidden joys of everyday life.