NYC’s Most Famous Eateries Continue to Adapt to Support Their Customers

Joshua Kenny
NYU Journalistic Inquiry
5 min readDec 20, 2022

Quaint and almost hidden, other than the storefront sign that displays a cartoon version of the founder, Ray Alvarez, and the branding of teal coloring, one of the few stores along the corner of the street, Ray’s Candy Store, provides a fun charm to the brick facades surrounding it. Upon entering the store, you’re greeted by Alvarez, who wears a stained white apron and a comforting smile. “I love what I’m doing. You know, that makes me jump out of bed and come down here,” he says as he pours a soda from the machine behind the counter. Ray’s Candy Store, which opened over forty years ago in 1974, has become a staple for Avenue A of the East Village. Known for its comfort foods, warm environment, and being open until the late hours of the night, Ray’s Candy Store is a fan favorite for many Manhattan residents.

Alvarez has recently begun planning his celebration for his 90th birthday, yet is still seen every day at the store for 18 hours serving ice cream, fried Oreos, french fries, and other novelties. The acclaim of his shop has created thousands of fans worldwide on social media, even to the likings of celebrities such as Kim Kardashian and Kendall Jenner, who have made appearances at the store. However, even with the success and attention of the store, Alvarez has still run into many problems.

“I was trying to do the best I can and the cheapest. The best works, but the cheapest doesn’t work. I went bankrupt twice; people had to help me ‘Save the Ray.’ It was ten years ago and then again three years ago,” Alvarez explained.

Even with historical significance in the city, small businesses still struggle to maintain their image and customer sales. The COVID-19 pandemic caused a shift for many companies, making adaptability key and success unknown. In 2020, one of the significant heights of the pandemic, an estimated 29.7 percent of small businesses closed. However, now there are currently almost an increased 450,000 businesses that are operating compared to numbers before the pandemic. Companies that survived the pandemic must remain relevant and profitable, especially with more competition arising as the pandemic dwindles.

The pandemic impacted Alvarez and his employees as he explained that hours had to be cut. From operating around the clock to closing at four in the morning, customer interaction was limited. However, this was not the only constraint that the store ran into.

Still standing behind the counter, Alvarez looked at the various homemade signs that showcased the different items available at the store and the prices that accompanied them. “But worse than that is the Russian war on Ukraine. Everything doubled,” Alvarez explained after pausing to reflect on the various problems the store has dealt with throughout its run.

However, other historic businesses in the city have experienced more growth in light of conflict, such as the current war in Ukraine. Located on the corner of Second Avenue and Ninth Street, decorated by a large Ukrainian flag that covers the transparent glass wall of the restaurant, Veselka, a Ukrainian restaurant in Manhattan, opened in 1954. Its establishment in the city provides a deep connection to the culture of Ukraine and an emphasis on community.

Jason Birchard, the owner of the establishment, sat in one of the wooden chairs against the black wooden table that could hold four customers. He explained the restaurant’s history and success while describing the emotional toll the current war has taken on himself and his workers.

“The employees that are working and are of Ukraine descent are happy to come to work because it’s busy and keeps them distracted. They are making money to help various causes back home,” he explained.

Efforts to support the Ukrainian families and communities connected to the restaurant are significant as Birchard and staff hold various fundraisers to give back to those impacted by the war. These fundraisers have allowed Veselka to remain in the public eye, and with varied press coverage and events, the restaurant has continued to be a staple in the city.

“We’re taking physical donations. We started doing that back when the war started, like medical supplies, clothes, blankets, and things like that. All of the Borscht sales are donated to Ukraine. So I think they’ve raised like $300,000. That was like a month or two ago, so I think it could be different,” said Sophie Khomtchenko, who has served as a restaurant waitress since January.

This sense of community and support is essential for businesses to continue operating. Located on Broadway, right across the block from Astor Place, The Donut Pub’s newest location strongly emphasizes community and customer support. Its neon-lit interior and dozens of rows of colorful, creative donuts draw in thousands of people each year, from everyday customers to tourists worldwide. However, each customer is just as important as the other in the eyes of the employees.

“We have customers that have been coming to us since the 60’s, and they come to the shop every week, and we know their exact order from the heart,” explained Manuel Elvir, a college student and current employee of the dessert shop.

The Donut Pub opened its first location in The West Village in 1964 and has become a prominent establishment devoted to superior customer service and tasteful delights such as in-house freshly made donuts and cookies. Elvir further explained his excitement to connect with new people daily and reconnect with regulars.

Similarly, Ray Alvarez is known not only for his homemade masterpieces but also for his devotion to his customers. Alvarez currently charges no tax on his items and pays for the tax himself at the end of every month. He tastes every ingredient before it is used and emphasizes building solid connections with his customers. This has not gone unnoticed.

Understanding the challenges Alvarez faces as a small business owner, friends and fans of his candy shop have launched a GoFundMe in honor of his upcoming 90th birthday. The GoFundMe has raised over $50,000 since being established in November. Hundreds of customers have signed birthday messages for Ray Alvarez, which can be seen at the store across from the register. Messages of love, happiness, and thanks have been explicitly directed to Alvarez in hopes that his efforts for the community will be known.

Alvarez has remained grateful for the GoFundMe support as it has kept his business running. After constantly being denied loans, as many falsely believed Alvarez was making a significant amount of money, he began to lose hope. Yet, the support from the various donors for the GoFundMe has provided a new, positive perspective for Alvarez.

“GoFundMe is very interesting. I see they are normal people; they’re not rich. They mean, ‘Ray, don’t worry, we’re going to help you,’ and they did,” Alvarez explained.

--

--