The Kouyasidia Drawings
Portraits of a West African Village
Between 2001 and 2007, I traveled extensively in West Africa to study the traditional music and culture of the Malinké people of Guinea. Being immersed in the culture of remote African villages forced me to reckon with my notions of the Africa I thought I knew, and challenged my perceptions of the world we live in.
The result of those nearly two-and-a-half years of living in West Africa was my first book, Djoliba Crossing, in which I strove to capture both the spirit of these travels and the vibrant music and culture of Guinea, through my art and writings.
Seven years after the last of those travels had faded into memory, I finally returned to West Africa in 2014 to rekindle old friendships and visit the home of long-time friend and fellow musician, Sayon Camara, as well as to resume my studies of the Fula flute with another dear friend, Lancine Conde.
In Sayon’s home village of Kouyasidia, in the Faranah region of Guinea (near Kissidougou), I stayed amongst some of the most kind, generous, and courageous people I had met anywhere in my travels. Amongst these people, time seemed to slow down and life again seemed simple. Life and death danced around us as the community celebrated then mourned, worked and then played. Laughter and music were always nearby, despite hardship being ever present. Like a dream you don’t want to awake from, Kouyasidia was a difficult place to leave.
Upon my return from that trip, broke and suffering from a bit of post-travel cultural malaise, I sought to re-connect myself to the spirit of those memorable people of Kouyasidia. Through the simplest of mediums, I worked out their likenesses on pencil and paper until I felt I knew them once again. As their visages came to life on my pad of bristol board, I could hear their laughter, and imagined I was sitting around the crackling morning fire huddled together for warmth before the sun climbed high enough to erase the chill of the African night.
The series of drawings below depict just a few of these radiant people, who, amidst hardship and poverty, displayed resilience, courage, and a stern commitment to values of community and culture.
Kalifa Kourouma
One day, we met with all the village elders to discuss current issues of life and work in the village. It was a bright, blue-skied morning but the temperature had not yet risen, and there was a chill to the morning air. The men wore heavy jackets and huddled close, even though the temperature was about 60º F (balmy for me, coming from the New England winters!). This man’s face, humility, and kindness I will never forget. His name is Kalifa Kourouma.
La Visiteuse
In the mornings, when the day was still cool and the light was soft, I would often go walking through the village to explore. One day, I was met on my walk by this woman and some of her like-aged companions. Her eyes and mysterious beauty captivated me. I do not know her name; my companions from the village believe she may have been visiting from another village.
Jeune Fille de Kouyasidia I
The children were curious and inquisitive, and wanted to be with the new visitors at all times. This young girl made an impression on us with her kind, gentle ways and playful spirit, and her innate ability to altogether bypass language barriers as she quickly endeared herself to us!
Jeune Fille de Kouyasidia II
This radiant young girl was engaging and confident, always at the center of attention, despite not being able to speak. Her joyful spirit and courageous ability to overcome what many people would view as a disability made a lasting impression on me.
Homme de Kouyasidia I
One day, we met with all the village elders to discuss current issues of life and work in the village. This man spoke passionately and at great length to the crowd who had gathered.
Chanteuse de Kouyasidia
Quite often, the entire village would gather for special occasions, with much singing and dancing. The dust would rise high into the air as the festivities progressed throughout the afternoon and into the night. This woman sang joyfully, accompanied by the traditional drums.
Le Sage de Kouyasidia
Often, the elders of the village would assemble to discuss important matters pertaining to the community. I was always impressed by the depth of wisdom and patience of these “wise men”.
Dave Kobrenski is the author of the book, Djoliba Crossing: Journeys into West African Music and Culture.
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