The French Block House on To Ngoc Van Street
In the Quang Ba section of Ho Tay, where most buildings date from this millennium, one stands out. Perched on an incline at the upper end of the lake, a 1950s French military blockhouse stands guard.
Given its size and construction, this blockhouse is likely of the same vintage as the De Lattre Line of 900-odd blockhouses that were built by the French during the Indochine War to protect the Red River Delta from attacks by the Viet Minh to the south and China to the north. Made of concrete, steel and iron, the blockhouses that made up the Line were intended to withstand 155mm artillery fire, accommodate at least 10 men, and tended to be constructed in clusters of two to six (for mutual support) within line of sight of each other and close to a ‘mother blockhouse” that could send reinforcements when needed. However, since the De Lattre Line itself was located well outside of Ha Noi, the Quang Ba blockhouse would not have technically been part of it.
Unlike some of the other structures that were part of the De Lattre line, the blockhouse appears to be a standalone fortification, based on its uniform wall construction and 360-degree field of fire. It may have been enhanced with local defenses, such as trenches or palisades, but there’s no obvious evidence of these now. Inside, there are multiple small rooms and short passageways, connected to a central room that was likely used as an ammunition magazine and radio station. This would enable the garrison to fall back room by room towards the center if under attack — no doubt a terrifying experience. A ladder leads up to the pillbox from where gunners can fire six directions.
From a tactical perspective, the blockhouse was well-positioned. It was located on a key northern approach to the center of Hanoi and on slightly higher ground than the surrounding area (which is mostly low and inundated). This would have afforded excellent fields of observation and fire in all directions, allowing control of the local area.
The blockhouse was also likely re-used as a military installation after the French left. It is said to have been used as an anti-aircraft post during the ‘American war’. And, indeed, on the same plot on which the blockhouse stands is a second smaller building which apparently served as a gunner’s platform for the Americans. The blockhouse is intact and largely unmarked, suggesting that it did not see much fighting in either of these two wars. Other blockhouses, or “French villas” as they are called by some, remain dotted around Ha Noi and its (once rural) surrounds. While photographs of these can be found (see, for example, here and here), we do not know their exact coordinates.
You can get a closer look at the “Block House” after 4pm when it opens as an informal café, serving fresh up juices, beer, smoothies, and one of the best views across Tay Ho lake. Or, go along and have your hair cut by Mr Nam who operates his hair dressing salon out of the base of its fortifications.
Blog by Caryn Bredenkamp and Blair Tidey.
