European Train Holiday (Day 2)
Konstanz to St. Moritz
I’ve been fascinated by trains since I was a small child. I’ve wondered what a train-only vacation would look like; as in a vacation where I spend all of my “awake time” on a train. I’m about to find out. I’ve hastily planned such a vacation, comprising of some of my favourite rail sections in Europe.
This is Day 2.
2016 April 30th (664km, 5 trains)
7. Konstanz to Zurich, Switzerland (70 km at 54 kmph)
Sunrises remind one of other sunrises. The hotel restaurant as a very ornate roof. German sausages, though not spicy, have a lot of interesting herb and fruit flavours. I can see the station clock through the window to my right. For some reason, this feels more reassuring that looking at my phone. Lots of time before I catch the 7.03 to Zurich.
As with all the trains yesterday (no train was late arriving, or left more than 1 minute late), my train is sharp on time.
Another thing I love about trains. You get in at a specified time, spend a specified time on the train, and get off at another specified time. Everything very specific. Contrast this with car travel where you have a combination of too much control and too little (e.g. unexpected traffic jams), or plane travel.
Freedom is often the same as giving up control. Beyond looking at some amazing scenary, listening or reading a small set of books, or just thinking, there’s little I can do. And this is so freeing.
We slide through tiny farms with sheep. Reminds me of a toy model for some reason. In between, are houses which look very modern and European. Lots of wood, and large windows. The first of our snow covered mountains appear. I loved Zurich on my last trip. This time is no different. It’s another bright sunny day.
8. Arlberg Line: Zurich to Innsbruck, Austria (286 km at 80 kmph)
As my destination is Austria via Liechtenstein, the music is courtesy of Bruckner.
The sunlight on the shores of Lake Zurich is almost blinding. The lake itself is like a solid marble floor. The water in the lakes and streams are not black or brown, but a blue green. This is probably due to light coloured bed rock. Seeing people have fun (fish, camp, walk, run, laugh) while enjoying nature, enhances that enjoyment; recursively.
Bludenz, and the beginning of the famous Arlberg Line. We pass houses, villages and churches of ordinary people; ordinary, but stunningly picturesque. The trees are getting taller, and the foliage thicker. More snow-capped mountains, and lines of frozen rivers. The trees and the soil gets dryer.
I have about an hour to spend in Innsbruck, and I do a walk from the Barnhof to the river, passing a couple of historical sites. A Schnitzel burger makes a good lunch on the move. It’s off season, and the town is quiet. I didn’t like Vienna much, and nor did I really like
9. Innsbruck, Austria to Sargans, Switzerland (194 km at 73 kmph)
Back the way we came. Adding details to this diary.
10. Sargans to Chur (28 km at 84 kmph)
There is a certain introverted peacefulness that only being surrounded by high mountains can create. More turquoise water.
11. Bernina Express: Chur to St. Moritz (86 km at 41 kmph)
The approach to Bergun is stunning. A village with a church, and Piz Ela in the background.
Multiple viaducts, some with arched bridges. Loops and hairpin bends. The first signs of ice on the road. Still, lots of bright sunshine. The streams are now black — not unlike Scotland. Streams of melting water flows through the snow.
Preda. The mountains are like Yosemite. Bever. Another small village with green grass and white flowers. Houses have some strage white notation on the walls. Cross between ancient and mathematical (lots of years, and other numbers). Samedan. Fancy modern houses — likely holiday homes. Lots of wood, solar panels, but seem to fit in perfectly into the surroundings.
Like Innsbruck, St. Moritz is deserted. The walk from the Barnhof to the hotel up the hill is quite strenuous, especially after a long day, and at 6000 feet. The view of the lake is stunning though.
Excellent minestrone for dinner. Forgot to bring a Switzerland compatible charger, so end up charging phone with laptop. Realise that I’ll have the same problem tomorrow night in Domodossola (Italy, which has yet another plug-point standard).
