The Art of The Cheesesteak

Cheesesteaks, thinly sliced meat, hot cheese, and occasionally some onions and peppers on a thin long roll. There is a certain elegance in their simplicity, only consisting of a handful of ingredients, but many would beg to differ. Many will argue they are not quite elegant, and you can ask any Philadelphian, they are more than a simple sandwich. They are symbolic of the city. They have humble beginnings, they have character.They are made with heart and dedication to tradition. Cheesesteaks are made everywhere in the United States, yet they only seem to be correctly when they are built in The City of Brotherly Love. Whether they are served up on iconic South Street or being part of a big rivalry on South 9th Street, cheesesteaks are on a different level of exquisiteness in Philadelphia.

Before continuing the breakdown of the borderline mythological cuisine, it is important to understand the makeup of a cheesesteak. First, the meat, is made of prime rib. Finely chopped, sliced, diced, and then once again chopped prime rib adds to the heartiness and weight of the sandwich. No other meat will act as an appropriate substitute. However, cheese has a different set of rules. Cheez-Whiz and provolone are the most popular spreads to use. Mozzerella and a blend of multiple cheeses are also common. American cheese is often used, but this is also a no go, and is again breaking the rules. The cheese is melted and turned into a liquid, to be lathered on the sandwich and fill in the gaps between pieces of the finely chopped steak. This is a major flavor booster and adds some complexity to your cheesesteak. The final component, and arguably the most important part, is the roll. Cheesesteaks are made on long thin rolls, commonly referred to as hoagie or torpedo rolls. Much like the meat, this can not be replaced. The roll must have the strength to hold such a heavy sandwich, the softness to tear evenly with the steak, and the texture that turns the melody of steak and cheese into a symphony of culinary euphoria.

If someone was to wake up in a random section Philadelphia, whether they were in the slums of Kensington or in lavish Northern Liberties, they would not be more than a five minute walk from a high quality cheesesteak. The two most popular places for Cheesesteaks are Geno’s and Pat’s. The two highly successful eateries are located about 30 paces apart, literally facing each other across 9th street in South Philly. Pat’s look is one of simplicity, with clean white walls checkered with red and white tiles. The seating is all red seats, red tables, and red poles supporting the roofing that covers its customers. On the other side, Geno’s is decorated to the nines. Bright lights everywhere, neon signs everywhere, and of flame designs. The walls are decorated with pictures and emblems of police officers, and signs of respect for soldiers and police who have been killed while on duty. Although these two places have the most sales to people from out of town, Philadelphians believe the best cheesesteak is not on 9th Street. Jim’s cheesesteaks placed on South Street, in the heart of the city, boasts lines always piling out the door, having lines much like disney rides. The building is all black, with and also has an exterior of tile.

Once inside, chrome rails herd the massive line into a snaking trail that leads past pictures of famous Philadelphian celebrities and sport stars eating at Jim’s. Another elite cheesesteak shop is Dalessandro’s on Wendover Street in North Philly. The less spoken of stop in Philadelphia doesn’t boast large signs or advertisements. As a matter of fact it is a simple plain brick building, far too common in Philadelphia. However, inside the building is one of the best cheesesteaks in all of the land. The list of high quality cheesesteaks can go on forever in Philadelphia, and there are a number of other hidden gems in the city that know the secret to a truly divine cheesesteak.

It is the year 1930. Philadelphia is the third largest city in the United States, with just under two million people. The italian market in South Philly is bustling with italian americans selling all sorts of foods from strawberries to pastas. At the end of 9th street, sits a hot dog vendor by the name of Pat Olivieri, who is trying something new today. Pat brought some beef and cooked it up on his grill towards the end of the day. Soon after grilling the meat, a taxi driver and regular customer demands Pat puts the grilled meat on a roll and give it to him. Pat kindly agreed, and history was made. The next day, dozens of taxi drivers were at Olivieri’s hot dog stand requesting he would make more of his steak sandwiches.However, it did not take long for Pat to find competition, for a man by the name of Joey Vento opened up another steak sandwich place right across the street, called Geno’s. The rivalry quickly picked up, and the competition has grown into a rivalry since. Joey Vento claims he made the first “cheesesteak”, because he was the first to add cheese to the sandwich. Pat and his family however, claim they added cheese before Geno’s did.

Since 1930, cheesesteaks have exploded onto the national scene. Now from Boston to Miami, from Philadelphia to Los Angeles, cheesesteaks are sold in nearly every sub shop and pizza place in the United States.“Authentic” and “Philly Style” is usually written next to all of them. Not only have cheesesteaks grown across the map, but it has several forms derived off of the original. Now, places have created “chicken cheesesteaks” Where the original thin sliced steak is replaced with chicken. Chicken Cheesesteaks have also began to take several forms, including a chipotle chicken cheesesteak , which adds chipotle sauce to the mix. Some deli places have even adopted cheesesteak hoagies, where cold cut beef is combined with swiss cheese, roasted onions, and other toppings that create a cold, less melted cheesesteak. However, these small changes can not compare to the changes going on in Philadelphia. Some may even venture to call it, The Cheesesteak Renaissance. Cheesesteak are no longer being treated as cheap food. They are now being treated as cultural cuisine amongst the cooking community. They are no longer beefy heavy sandwiches, they have had a number of tweaks and additions that make them more light, more creative, and more modernized. The first spin, and my personal favorite, is the cheesesteak egg roll. Still filled with thinly sliced and diced steak and filled with gooey and light cheese, this time not in a roll. Instead, it fills a wonton, and creates a completely different experience. Now, the cheesesteak has become light, crispy, not as filling, and most importantly, much easier to eat. Usually served with spicy ketchup to complete the harmony of flavor, this is often sold as an appetizer at high end Philly restaurants.

Another new high end version of cheesesteaks is fried cheesesteak balls. Again the same innards of a cheesesteak, with steak and melted cheese, this time scooped, and placed into a small pouch of dough. This piece of dough is then stuck with a long chopstick and thrown into a fryer, and crisped into a golden brown ball of perfection. Again, much much lighter, crispy spin on the beloved sandwich is served as an appetizer. Cheesesteak nachos, pizza, and flatbreads are all adaptations of the original sandwich.

Now with all of this progression and movement, cheesesteaks still have a long way to go. Not in Philadelphia, but in the rest of the country. Imagine Philly is working with the iPhone6, and everyone else is still using flip phones, that is accurate how cheesesteaks’ quality quickly wither when they are outside of the philadelphia area. Of course Philadelphia is the best, then South Jersey and western Pennsylvania still hold some weight, but any further than that cheesesteaks become a nightmare sandwich of weight, sloppy, and careless food. Many would claim that it is in the water, and the delaware finds a way to bless each cheesesteak into a different level of taste. However, it is the little things that philadelphians take there time on, while foreigners look over, that creates the far superior sandwich.

The roll is of prime importance. Making a cheesesteak on bread, kaiser roll, or anything other than a hoagie roll will buy you a one way ticket to hell. Now although hoagie rolls will keep you from giving Satan a visit, it still may not be good enough. For a true, genuine cheesesteak, one most use Amoroso’s Rolls. Italian immigrants who moved to Camden, Vincenzo Amoroso and his sons opened their shop in 1904. Soon making headlines for great products, they move out of Camden and across the river to Philadelphia and continued their historic success.

The company now has exploded into a national scale business specializing in hoagie rolls. These rolls are strong enough to hold the weight of the sandwich while soft enough to tear evenly with the meat. Many places use rolls that are too tough and while they hold the heavy sandwich, they are too chewy and to enjoy.

Steak. Not roast beef, real life steak. The quality of the meat has to be fine enough to be cut thinly and keep texture, to be tender and untough, while not breaking the bank. While you need high quality steak, you should not be paying more than twelve dollars for your sandwich. Another crucial many places make, is how they cut their steak. Big slices are no good. They tend to be tougher, less tender, and the steak slides out of position. Chunks do not blend with the cheese well and make for awkward bites. The key to a good cheesesteak is chopped up steak, almost into a puree. It should be chopped into very fine pieces so the cheese can then fill in the gaps and create the cheese and steak combination that give the sandwich its name.

Now the one ingredient that does have a few compromises and variable, the cheese. Traditionally, whiz cheese is used. Now no one is saying this is the most healthy or organic option, but whiz is the cheese used that blends best with the chopped steak. I am a huge advocate of whiz, but for those who have moral problems with liquid cheese, there are other options. The other most popular is provolone. Provolone, when heated and melted, also creates and good combination with the steak and isn’t overpowering. Certain places however, try to reinvent the wheel with cheese, and this has varied results. some use mozzarella, which does not work well at all because it is too stringy and makes bites uneven and sloppy. Trying to save some money, places often try to use american cheese. Now american cheese may get the job done for an amateur cheesesteak connoisseur,but any Philadelphian will laugh at a cheesesteak with american cheese. It is too safe, and although it melts correctly and mixes with a properly cut steak, it lacks the flavor or challenge that whiz or provolone have. The final twist to cheese is trying a combination of a couple. Melted mozzarella, provolone, and american have been combined to become a unique new flavor that is now becoming slightly more popular. Whiz is still the overwhelming majority but it is not as strict as steak or rolls are.

A nightmare cheesesteak is found far too often in the United States, and it is usually because of sloppy mistakes. To save some money, an owner of a restaurant might use cheap rolls instead of an amoroso roll. This roll will either be too flimsy and not be strong enough to hold the dense sandwich, or it will be too tough and make the sandwich too chewy. Then they use a cheaper cut of steak, that is also too chewy and not tender enough to cut evenly. Also, they rush and do not chop up the steak, and instead only slice it quickly to save time. This again makes bites uneven and again makes the sandwich just a little less enjoyable. Finally, again to cut corners, they use american cheese. The cheese is melted, not enough to completely blend well with steak however. The cheesesteak was undercut on almost every sense, and the product shows.

A genuine philly cheesesteak is made of the following key ingredients, each more important than the other. First, an amoroso’s roll, maybe toasted up a little bit, but for the most part it is just left alone. A quality yet financially efficient cut of steak is sliced, chopped up, diced, and then chopped again to become nice small pieces. This puree of meat is than liberally placed on the roll, even throughout and still steaming hot.

Finally, the cheese is ready to make its appearance. Whiz is heated up, and is in a big gallon container, where a painter stirrer is dipped into the bucket, doused in cheese, and then slides through the hoagie, plastering the hoagie in the gooey cheese. The melted cheese then falls into the crevices that the steak does not fill ,and the two combine to one of the most simple yet excellent tastes ever.

In conclusion, the cheesesteak is from humble beginnings. It was not first made by an executive chef, or a five star establishment, it was made by an average italian who sold hot dogs. It is not made of super high quality ingredients. It is made of homebaked rolls, some steak, and liquid cheese. It does not require hours of grueling work. After a short amount of time to brown the steak, the cheesesteak take 10 seconds, a practice turned into perfection at Geno’s or Pat’s, to put together. People only mess up cheesesteaks because they do not worry about the details. They pick the rolls down the street, instead of looking for a high quality roll. They pick the cheapest cut of steak they can find. They select whatever cheese is around or most convenient and just throw it on there.

It is the little things that make or break the sandwich. The cheesesteak is not rocket science. It does not need a culinary expert. The cheesesteak is a blue collar worker, it is a simple man, it is a philadelphian.