The Epic Norcal & Oregon Road Trip
A One Week Itinerary through Redwoods and Waterfalls
The stretch of Highway 101 from San Francisco through Southern Oregon is one that every Californian should drive at least once in their lifetime. Recently, my partner and I embarked on this weeklong road trip driving through the towering Humboldt redwoods, winding up the wild Southern Oregon coastline, and looping back down through Oregon’s majestic waterfalls and Northern California’s otherworldly volcanic landscape.
This was our complete itinerary, taking us through some of the most diverse and breathtaking scenery the west coast has to offer.
Day 1: San Francisco, CA to Eureka, CA
Distance: 300 miles (~5 hours driving)
Our first day on the road started off following Highway 101 north out of San Francisco. Another option for this leg of the trip is to take the longer but more scenic drive along Highway 1, which hugs the Pacific ocean and meanders through the coastal towns of Point Reyes, Bodega Bay, and Mendocino.
We did not make many stops in the morning, opting to arrive at the redwoods by early afternoon. I have a particular love for chicken and waffles so we made an exception to check out Sonoma Crust in Santa Rosa for a quick lunch, and it did not disappoint. Their storefront is unassuming and hidden away in a small office space complex. We were blown away by their chicken and waffles sandwich — the chicken is juicy and perfectly fried, tucked between two crisp waffles, and topped with an apple slaw that adds a tart freshness.
Chandelier Drive-Thru Tree
Located right at the intersection of Highway 1 and Highway 101 is a 276 foot tall redwood with a hole cut through its base, allowing you to drive through in your car. There is a $10 fee to enter the park and there was a small line of vehicles awaiting their turn to squeeze through the 6′ x 6′ hole. For us, this stop was interesting but not a must-see.
Avenue of the Giants
A short ways further north is one of the most beautiful lengths of highway in California. Running alongside 101, the Avenue of the Giants is a 31 mile road that weaves through majestic redwoods. The experience of being dwarfed by seemingly ever-larger trees as you drive further into the forest is, in a word, ethereal.
We explored Founders Grove, which has a short, half mile interpretive trail that takes you past some colossal fallen trees (probably the largest I have ever seen) and the massive Founders Tree. This is the most visited grove in Humboldt Redwoods State Park, but it is well worth the stop just to see the scale of how enormous these redwoods are.
Lastly, we pulled out at the Grieg-French-Bell Grove, one of my favorite spots on the Avenue of the Giants. This grove is noteworthy not for its trees, but because the ground is covered in a thick and dense carpet of redwood sorrel. Despite it being a weekend, we had the entire area to ourselves. Exploring the network of narrow, branching paths cutting through lush groundcover felt like we were walking a scene straight out of a fairytale.
Eureka
To conclude Day 1, we grabbed some dinner from Humboldt Smokehouse, a no-frills BBQ spot, and dessert from Slice of Humboldt Pie. We car camped at a rest stop near Eureka with a handful of other cars and RVs passing through the area. This was probably the least scenic “campsite” of our trip but it was conveniently located, relatively quiet, and overall felt quite safe.
Day 2: Eureka, CA to Crescent City, CA
Distance: 100 miles (~2.5 hours driving)
The next day began bright and early to take on a packed itinerary of hiking. Driving through the sleepy coastal fog, we spontaneously pulled over to enjoy our breakfast at Stone Lagoon. We savored the tranquil quiet of the early morning hour, looking over the glassy expanse of water as we ate our tangerines and leftover cornbread.
Lady Bird Johnson Grove Trail | 1.3 miles
This short, scenic walk was beautiful and had a lot of hollowed-out trees that looked almost like teepees. As we made our way around, the sun emerged and peeked through the canopy above, creating a magical, golden aura.
Fern Canyon | 1.1 miles (or, 4.6 miles)
Let me just say, Fern Canyon is one of the best hikes I’ve done, possibly ever.
The drive into the park is an adventure of its own on a narrow, unpaved road. It is largely navigable with a 2WD but the final stretch of road involves some shallow stream crossings that we did not feel comfortable undertaking with our low-clearance car. Instead, we parked at Gold Bluffs Beach Campground and tacked on an extra mile-ish hiking along the beach to get to the trailhead. We were rewarded with rugged coastline covered in a mystical fog.
The trail itself takes you through an enchanting lush landscape, where you find yourself surrounded by 50-foot canyon walls covered in ferns. Waterproof shoes are a must as you trek through a small stream that flows through the canyon.
It was difficult not to stop every few moments to marvel at the sparkling greens and golds and browns from sunshine glistening off of the water flowing over rocks and streaming down between the plants. Navigating the trail is a delight of rockhopping, balancing on fallen logs, and ducking under moss-covered branches.
Hidden Beach and False Klamath Rock | 7.6 miles (or, in very unfortunate circumstances, 8.3 miles)
This hike got off to a poor start when we missed the trailhead and mistakenly thought we could take a detour and scramble up a cliffside from the beach to rejoin the path. That turned out to be a very bad decision that involved bumbling our way through tall brambles and stinging nettles and featured an alarming snake sighting.
Putting that aside, we felt that the best parts of this trail are the beach at the beginning and the viewpoint at the end, both of which you can drive to. The 3+ miles of coastal trail in the middle there and back are mostly the same the whole way and got a bit monotonous and were overgrown in parts. In hindsight, I personally would pass on this hike just because there are so many other more memorable trails in the area.
Crescent City
Exhausted after having logged over 14 miles of hiking, we settled down for the evening in Crescent City, a small seaside town at the very tip of the California coast. We snagged a free campsite right on the coast and enjoyed some well-deserved Pizza Hut as we watched the sunset.
Day 3: Crescent City, CA to Eugene, OR
Distance: 250 miles (~4 hours driving)
We awoke in the morning to the sound of crashing waves (nice!) and squawking seagulls (why…). We hit the road early again to do one more redwoods hike before heading into Oregon.
Boy Scout Tree Trail & Fern Falls | 5.3 miles
This is another stunning trail through old-growth redwoods. I will never tire of the feeling of awe in getting to co-exist with these truly immense trees. We craned our necks and gaped at the treetops, feeling as if we were gazing upon a grand cathedral. The falls at the end made a perfect place to stop for lunch (our favorite trail snack of pepperonis and tortillas). We started at 8 AM and were the only ones on the trail until we were almost back to the parking lot.
Samuel H. Boardman Scenic Corridor
This 12 mile slice of the southern Oregon coastline is a treasure trove of sweeping ocean views and microadventures. There are numerous pullout opportunities along the way to get out and explore.
We stopped at Natural Bridges Cove and hiked the short half mile down into the cove itself. The sheer cliffs provide a dramatic backdrop for the frothy surf and crystal clear blue waters.
Our favorite stop in this area was Secret Beach, which featured a small waterfall that cascaded right onto the sand and into the ocean and secluded little coves studded with thousands of mussels.
The remainder of the day was spent enjoying the coastal views as we made our way further north into Oregon. Before heading inland towards Eugene, we stopped in Coos Bay for fish and chips at Monkey Business Food To Go and fresh oysters at Chuck’s Seafood. Despite some slightly awkward car shucking, the oysters were buttery and plump and sweet.
We completed the last leg of our drive for the day and checked into our Airbnb in Eugene, our home base for the next few days of adventuring.
Day 4: Willamette National Forest
Distance: 150 miles (~3 hours driving)
Today we headed east out of Eugene on Oregon 126, following the McKenzie River into Willamette National Forest.
Tamoglitch Blue Pool | 3.7 miles
Pictures really don’t do this spot justice. We embarked on a short trek on a wooded trail that brought us to a clearing overlooking the magnificent Tamoglitch Blue Pool. The waters here are so incredibly blue, it’s hard to believe that something this vibrant can even exist at all. We sat on the rocks looking onto the iridescent topaz-like water and enjoyed our simple lunch as the pool shimmered in the sunlight. This hike got quite busy around noontime, even on a weekday, so I’d recommend setting out earlier in the morning to beat the crowds.
Koosah and Sahelie Falls| 2.2 miles
A short ways down the road is a delightful little loop trail that takes you past two gorgeous waterfalls, Koosah and Sahelie Falls.
Mere steps away from the parking lot is the roaring Sahelie Falls. Standing on the rocks below the waterfall, there were rainbows hanging in the air on gossamer clouds of mist. Continuing along the ice blue McKenzie River, we soon came across Koosah Falls, also in full force from spring snow melt.
Day 5: Day Trip to Trail of Ten Falls
Distance: 150 miles (~3 hours driving)
We drove north on I5 seeking out this epic 7.4 mile hike that features ten beautiful waterfalls. Each fall is unique and you can even walk behind four of them! Standing behind a sheet of water cascading over the edge of a perfectly carved out cave is an experience unlike any I have had before.
This area offers a choose-your-own-adventure array of hiking options, ranging from a short walk from the parking lot to see the first waterfall to the whole 7.4 mile circuit. Even the full hike does not feel long at all due to the many viewpoints interspersed along the entire way. The park has a $5 day use fee.
On our way back, we stopped in Salem at The Yard Food Park, a food truck pod with carts offering everything from sushi to tamales to gyros. We picked up an eclectic dinner consisting of sliders, some tacos, and a marionberry pie milkshake.
Day 6: Thor’s Well
Distance: 150 miles (~3.5 hours driving)
For our final day in Oregon, we retraced our steps back to the coast to see the natural wonder Thor’s Well, a hole carved into the basalt shoreline that appears to be a seemingly bottomless sinkhole into the Pacific Ocean.
Thor’s Well is at its most spectacular during high tide when water is both swelling in from the bottom and spilling violently over the top. We marveled at the sheer power of the sea on full display, while taking care to remain aware of the tides to avoid getting swept out into the ocean. After a nice picnic and accidental nap on the beach, we spent some time exploring the nearby tidepools and hopping along the rocky shores. The frothy white churn crashed over jagged rocks and formed mini-waterfalls sloshing back into the sea.
For dinner we found another food truck, I Scream for Waffles, serving up a variety of sweet and savory waffley creations. The reader will not be surprised to learn that I chose another chicken and waffle sandwich (excellent) and a Liege waffle topped with their homemade ice cream (also excellent, especially the Bees Knee’s flavor, which had chunks of honeycomb).
Day 7: Eugene, OR to Mt Shasta, CA
Distance: 300 miles (~5.5 hrs driving)
We said goodbye to Oregon and started our return trip back to California. This drive took us right past the turnoff for Crater Lake National Park, which we visited on another road trip a few years ago. Time permitting, I would have loved to revisit Garfield Peak, Wizard Island, and nearby Diamond Lake campground. We opted to continue on to a new destination for us — Lava Beds National Monument.
Lava Beds National Monument
Nestled up in the far northeastern corner of California, this is one of the more sparsely visited parks but it is definitely worth a stop at least once if you’re passing through the area. The landscape changed dramatically as we got closer to Lava Beds — dry grassy fields gave way to an extraterrestrial expanse of sharp basalt rocks.
The monument boasts a volcanic paradise of over 700 caves to explore, formed by lava tubes tens of thousands of years ago. The caves range from the paved and lit Mushpot Cave right off the visitors center to more challenging, sprawling mazes that require crawling and shimmying through passageways.
The highlight of our trip was the Golden Dome cave. These tunnels were the narrowest we ventured into that day and we had to climb over boulders and duck under low ceilings. The cave ceilings are covered in shimmering yellows and golds, caused by water droplets reflecting off bacteria that cling to the volcanic rock walls.
Note that there are seasonal cave closures to protect nesting bat populations. I recommend stopping by the visitors center to see what’s currently open. They also loan out flashlights if you forgot one.
We have the annual America the Beautiful Pass, which costs $80 and gets you into every national park and monument. Otherwise, there is a $10 fee to enter (as of 2021).
Shasta-Trinity National Forest
This area of California is full of many excellent hikes worthy of a trip of their own. We had time to squeeze in a short one on this trip to Faery Falls, an easy 1.3 miles out and back with a peaceful waterfall at the end.
Yaks on the 5
Yaks is probably one of the best restaurants on Interstate 5. I can’t pinpoint exactly what makes this roadside burger joint so special. Maybe it is the quirky flavor combinations from lavender ketchup to a burger with Nutter Butters. Or perhaps it is their nostalgic charm that takes you back to a time long past. Somehow, we have found a way to make an annual visit to Yaks every year for the last three years (even last year when we convinced ourselves that it was “on the way” from Lassen to Tahoe despite it being two hours in the opposite direction).
If, or rather when, you have the opportunity to experience Yaks for yourself, there are several non-negotiables you must try. The first is Scott’s Tots, a basket of seasoned tater tots blanketed with a thick layer of gooey cheese. Every bite is a perfect little parcel of crispy, creamy, cheesy, smoky goodness.
The second is the sticky bun. It is difficult to put into words the experience of biting into these warm, pillowy delights. They taste rich and caramelly and full of love. You can also choose to swap out your traditional burger buns for one of these glorious treats, which makes it impossible to eat cleanly with your hands but worth every sticky bite.
We stayed the night at Shoreline Camping near Gregory Creek, a free campsite during the off-season. The spot is a flat slice of rich red dirt and rocks overlooking Shasta Lake. Despite occasional traffic trickling down the nearby interstate, the evening was quiet and offered us an expansive view of the night sky.
Day 7: Mt Shasta, CA to San Francisco
Distance: 300 miles (~5 hrs driving)
The remainder of the return trip is mostly a straight shot down I5, but we made a quick stop in Sacramento for our road trip staple, Gunther’s Ice Cream. Our favorites at this small retro parlor are the 50/50 freeze, a refreshing fruit slush with vanilla ice cream in the middle, and their butter brickle ice cream, flecked with crunchy pieces of golden-browned toffee.
General Tips and Advice
- For the camping sections of our trip, we used freecampsites.net and iOverlander to find free campsites to stay at. Most of these sites are user-curated so use your own discretion to determine whether a location is legal and safe to camp at. Be sure to follow Leave No Trace principles and pack out any trash you bring in.
- Download offline Google Maps before you head out, as there are large stretches of this drive with no cell phone service.
- We kept a flexible itinerary with multiple options for eating, hiking, and camping each day. This allowed us to adapt our schedule to any unplanned circumstances like places being closed or full. Our whole list of locations we researched can be found on this Google Map.
