The “Everest” of Zion

It’s only 1,488 feet to the summit, but if you’ve ever been to Zion National Park and driven through the canyon, the allure of Angels Landing is almost irresistible. Much like George Mallory, who when asked by a reporter in 1924 why he wanted to scale Mount Everest said famously, “Because it’s there,” if you lay eyes on Angels Landing and then learn how accessible it can be, you will want to climb/hike it.

I say “climb/hike” because it’s not quite a hike or a climb. But there are elements of both on the “short” 5.2 mile (roundtrip) trail. Climbers will bristle at the notion Angels Landing is a climb, but hikers should be prepared to cover an average of 40 feet of elevation gain every 100 yards “hiked.”

But take heed. There are parts of the trail that are dangerous. The National Park Service estimates that approximately 29 people have fallen to their deaths from various points along the path to the summit since the park first began recording those statistics. Although 6 people died from 2004 to 2010, there has not been a death in the last five years.

The first part of the trail rises gradually from its inception just before a footbridge that passes over the Virgin River. On the other side of the bridge, take the trail right toward the West Rim Trail. The West Rim Trail is paved in many places and is the busiest and easiest part of the trek to the summit. The trail winds leisurely up through some long, meandering switchbacks as you make the climb.

A little higher up the trail.

After a moderate and consistent rise, often exposed to the sun, the trail offers a brief and mostly flat respite through Refrigerator Canyon, which in the mornings and late afternoons provides some shade in the shadows of some trees and the steep canyon walls on either side.

After coming out of the canyon, the trail turns 180 degrees and enters a series of switchbacks, climbing abruptly up to Scout Lookout. These 21 switchbacks are known as the Wiggles.

Scout Lookout, a plateau-like, relatively flat area, provides a last place to reconsider the final half mile climb to the summit, and many people turn around here and head back down; beyond, the “trail” narrows considerably and drops off vertically on both sides to the canyon floor.

From this point to the summit, there are thick chains along the “preferred” line, which passes several steep drop offs on both side of the serrated, knife-like ridge. This is really the only safe line to take.

At this point, it is necessary to pay close attention to your route and footing. This is not the time or place for flip-flops, Crocs, or sneakers. A good pair of hiking shoes with a tacky, Vibram-type sole would be a sound choice. This is the section of the trail on which most fatalities have occurred. Although I found the drop-offs to be less severe than the photos show, there are several places where a lack of attention, distraction or moving too quickly could cause someone to fall.

One of the famous landmarks the hiker will come across during the traverse along the ridge to the summit is the “Step of Faith.” The trail drops off vertically on both sides.

Although not clearly apparent in the photos, the trail widens a bit beyond the Step of Faith and actually continues that way until reaching the summit. After the stress of crossing the narrow part of the ridge, this is a welcome opportunity to relax and catch your breath. There are several places to stop for a break and take in the vistas to the valley floor on the north side of the cliff.

The complete last push of the hike, including the path through Refrigerator Canyon, the Wiggles, Scout Lookout, and the last half-mile along the ridge to the summit, looks like this:

The summit is an essentially flat outcropping that juts out into Zion Canyon like a peninsula of rock and drops off vertically in three directions. There’s not much room, so take caution when walking around. But the view back down Zion Canyon toward Zion Lodge is worth the effort. And the ability to boast about your accomplishment is cool too.

As with most climbing endeavours, you will want to be as careful — perhaps even more so — when heading back down as when you came up.

To reach Zion National Park from points south, take exit 16 off Interstate 15 and take State Route 9 east for 20 miles to the south park entrance. From points north, take exit 27 and go south on State Route 17 and then east on State Route 9 for a total of 46 miles to the south park entrance.

Once there, consider staying in the lodge, which has comfortable and recently renovated rooms. The main lodge building also has a great restaurant, The Red Rock Grill, and an adjacent lounge.