Relaxation, German Style

A surreal photographic tour of Germany’s spa towns

Doug Bierend
Vantage

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When you think of where to take your next spa vacation, Germany might not be the first place that comes to mind. Well, maybe that should change — with over 300 places to get your pamper on, Alemania has long been something of a hotbed for people looking to scald, scrape, steam, and sleep their way back to health and vigor, among other approaches that look a lot weirder than they really are.

Chalk it up to environments specifically designed to pull visitors out of their day-to-day realities. Photographer Alexander Krack captured the surreal essence of 30 such spots in his series Morgens Nüchtern, am Brunnen, zu Bett, which translates roughly to “Sober in the Morning, At the Well, Time for Bed.”

Krack didn’t seek out the topic of the series, but rather stumbled on it after staying in a motel at such a spa town while researching an unrelated series. Wandering around with his camera, he spotted a painting like you’d see on a hotel wall, presented behind a shop glass. Something essential and symbolic about it seemed to reflect the nature of the place, and Krack’s curiosity was piqued.

“I felt that there was more to discover, and after a second trip it was clear that it was going to be my next series,” he says.

Thermal baths are the main course in most of these (aptly named) spa towns, or Bad, as they’re known in Germany. The spas offer a wide range of specialized treatments for chronic issues like rheumatism, to respiratory problems, repetitive stress, or psychological issues — the works. People from around the world also flock to these (often sleepy) towns just to relax and unwind.

“It’s a holistic concept mostly, thus you not only have the clinics, you also have the spa gardens, the recreational programs that ease your mind with classical concerts, dance evenings or movie nights to name a few,” Krack says. “And then, of course, you have the treatments that sometimes feel as if they are from another world.”

Then there are the resident populations, many of whom grew up in and maintain these towns. Old and young alike enjoy the same town squares, parks, and thoroughfares that we all expect from the places we live — these places just also happen to be populated by (mostly elderly) folks prepared to stare at a moist stone wall in silence or spend a few minutes in a -100° C chamber for the sake of health. Their pets get in on the chillaxin’ action, too.

“Of course, the towns are not just these surreal scenes that my series consists of,” he says, “Many aspects are as normal as in any other town, and for the people who really live there it is their everyday life. When you visit them, however, you can notice that some things are just a little different.”

The subjects of the images are kept deliberately vague — their locations and particulars of the treatments aren’t disclosed. Instead, viewers are treated to strange slices of life that speak for themselves, comprehensibly or not. It’s enough to know that places like the ones in these pictures actually exist. While there were some difficulties finding and gaining access to these places, Krack’s photos affirm how real life can be fantastically strange if you simply show up to the right place.

“When individual patients were involved I had to get permission beforehand, so I guess they were somewhat warned. Nonetheless, I let them do what they were doing anyways as these surreal places don’t need directing or staging when you take your time and just observe.”

More images from Morgens Nüchtern, am Brunnen, zu Bett can be seen at Krack’s website or in a limited run photo book available there too. An exhibition of his work will also be on display in Hanover starting April 22nd.

All photos by Alexander Krack

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Doug Bierend
Vantage
Editor for

Wandering freelance writer and author living in upstate New York.