Behind the Seams: Caroline Hayden Designs for the Girly Girls
Caroline Hayden’s design goal is to find a balance between femininity and a more minimal, contemporary approach. She has a background in eveningwear and is drawn to a more exaggerated silhouette. Papercut Magazine dives into the details of this emerging designer’s aesthetic.
Interview by Chelsea Deakin
Where are you originally from and how did you get started in fashion design?
I was born in Perham, Minnesota and currently live and work from northern Minn., traveling to Minneapolis for shows and events. I got started in fashion after my friends and I competed in the Miss America Organization during college. I began designing gowns for them and consequently began my education with eveningwear fabric, interior construction techniques, and working one on one with clients. Those experiences led to a career as a custom evening and bridal gown designer.
How would you describe your designer aesthetic and what inspires your work?
I am drawn to a more exaggerated silhouette, because of my background in eveningwear. Balancing impact with accessibility is a happy challenge I face with each collection. My RTW pieces are for a woman tuned in to how clothing makes her feel. She wants something beautiful but also wants to be taken seriously; never overtly sexy and never, ever adorable. Fabric and silhouette is where I start for inspiration. I also ask myself “is this interesting enough”? or “is this beautiful enough”? I’m a perfectionist and always thinking of ways to make something better.
What are some of your daily duties?
I had a baby this year so my daily duties are always changing! Besides the responsibilities of being a new mom, I keep busy scheduling and overseeing fittings for the new collection and for our custom bridal clients, shipping for events and photo shoot pulls, and researching industry resources for my RTW goals.
What do you love most about your job?
I love the process of creating something beautiful from nothing but I also enjoy the challenges of running my own business.
What do you enjoy doing in your free time?
Cooking and baking, playing classical piano, watching old movies, and spending time with my family and dogs. Almost all of my free time is spent at home.
What was the inspiration behind your SS14 collection?
I took a free spirited approach, focusing on movement with my dresses. I didn’t intend to go “70's.” Halfway through it was looking decidedly retro, so we went with it. That’s the school of thought the beaded jumpsuit, one of the most popular looks from the collection, came from. I never go into a collection with concrete plans, as the best ideas happen organically.
What fabrics, details and techniques did you work into this collection?
Besides the suiting fabric for a couple of the pant looks, everything is silk. The dresses featured three layers of fine-crinkle georgette, draped together to give the fullness I wanted but still a lightweight, cloud-like movement to it. We wanted the easy attitude to follow through to our beaded looks, so we added an elastic waistband and a looser fitted bodice.
How is this collection unique from your last?
AW13 was my first RTW collection and I used fabric I’ve been collecting for the past 15 years for some of the looks. I grew up around my mother’s quilt store. The inspiration for the collection was nostalgic, as it featured many quilted looks. The overall aesthetic for AW13 was dark and bundled up, featuring fitted and flared silhouettes and a cozy, feminine vibe that was always within my comfort zone as a young designer. SS14 was a bit more grown up as I experimented with new shapes while thinking about the selling potential for each look, something I’ll no doubt become more aware of with each collection.
Who do you envision wearing this collection?
My customer is between the ages of 25–35, has money to spend on investment pieces but doesn’t want to look like every other new adult who’s into fashion. Cool girls and girly girls can find looks within this collection that they can style to make their own. My goal is always to find a balance between femininity and a more minimal, contemporary approach.
What are the key pieces of this collection and why?
The first look I sketched was the mint, busy floral, beaded and pleated dress with exposed half bust cups. The length of this dress is where I wanted to go for spring and it was important everything was very full and used a lot of lightweight fabric. Most women I know are over the tight pencil dresses and skirts for dressing up and want something with more freedom and movement. The peach, beaded jumpsuit and ivory jumper with the ruffle cuffed silk blouse have also been very popular. I think people respond to evening done in a more casual way so they can look effortless and comfortable in addition to being fancy.
What is your personal favorite piece or look and why?
My favorite look is the off-shoulder, peach silk, pleated gown. It makes a statement but is still very wearable.
How do you set your designs apart from other designers?
It’s no secret that there are a lot of contemporary American designers out there. While I appreciate the minimalistic and sometimes boundary pushing approach to many of them, I represent a similar concept, but in a much more feminine way. I also dislike the word “sexy.” My customers are smart, fashion girls who want to feel beautiful.
What do you hope to contribute to fashion?
I’m not an artist and I don’t blindly follow trends. I’m somewhere in between those two personalities, but more importantly, I really love the industry. My contribution will not be life-changing, but I find great inspiration from the women who wear my dresses and appreciate their purpose. Someone once said that in today’s competitive fashion market you have to “mean more to fewer people.”
What’s next for your design career?
I’ll continue to work on establishing a ready-to-wear presence within my label, including a small bridal collection, as well as continue to offer custom bridal gowns in Minn.
What steps are you taking to continue growing your brand?
I’m currently interviewing with factories, showrooms, and fashion reps to be ready for a RTW launch for AW15.
What advice do you give to people who dream of starting their own collection?
Spend more time learning about the business side of fashion than the creative. Even the most talented of designers can fall short without a business plan and solid team behind them.
What is the best way for emerging designers to get their name out there?
The internet has forever changed the way the world of fashion connects to every branch of the industry and a smart designer will use the resources that are literally at their fingertips. Find fashion leaders and insiders to learn from online, subscribe to news websites like B.O.F, and start using Google for every type of question you may have for developing a business, the process of production, etc. so that when you’re ready to say, “hey, look at me!” you can back it up and do something worthwhile with any exposure you receive. Setting up an Instagram, Pinterest, and Facebook account to document your brand ideas and accomplishments and begin growing your fan base is a good first step.
