10 points for Cartier Santos

Tanoy Majumdar
PassTimer
Published in
6 min readAug 9, 2023

--

1. A Brief History of Time

The Cartier Santos, a pilot watch well rooted in its DNA, holds equal significance in the realms of horology and aviation. While it may not bear a resemblance to the first airplane, it did take flight on the wrist of the “first” pilot. Born in 1904, the Cartier Santos was meticulously crafted by Louis Cartier, the brand’s founder, who aimed to create a more accessible version of the pocket watch. The complaint was raised by Alberto Santos-Dumont, the “first” pilot who had trouble managing the aircraft while having to look at his pocket watch.

Santos de Cartier. WatchBox

The Santos continues to remain relevant even after more than a century since its initial launch. One of its most notable revisions occurred in 2004 with the introduction of the Santos 100, commemorating the timepiece’s centennial. The Santos 100 was not just a revision of the model; it was a successful endeavor to reintroduce their iconic piece to the mainstream. With its multiple experimental case designs, the Santos 100 catered to a diverse range of preferences, appealing to a broader demographic rather than a single group.

2. Decoding Time

A close look at the Santos dial. WatchSwiss

The Cartier Santos features an oddly satisfying dial. Upon first glance, the roman numerals seamlessly fill the crevices of the quadrilateral shape. The style of hour markers, complementing the case designs, is inherent in the Cartier school of design. Inspired by the Art Deco period of design, the numerals on the dial continue to stay virtually unchanged. Whether it’s the Crash, Santos, or even the Baignoire, all showcase roman numerals precisely tailored to their respective case shapes.

The Santos de Cartier, ref. WSSA0030 “Bleu”. WatchCharts

The gradient color design of the Santos made its debut at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in 2018, creating a striking contrast against the brand’s signature white dial. The Santos de Cartier collection offers 13 new variations for retail purchase.

3. PassTime Relevance

The Santos is considered to be the first wristwatch produced commercially. Though the timepieces from Patek and other watchmakers had a breakthrough in wristwatches by the end of the 1800s, the Santos was seen to be more revolutionary due to its unique design and functionality. Over the years, the Cartier Santos has become an iconic timepiece favored by many modern influencers. More recently, Jake Gyllenhaal was showcased as the poster boy of the Santos with his appointment as the first watch ambassador for Cartier.

Jake Gyllenhaal sporting the Santos in a photoshoot. Augustman

Another notable celebrity known for wearing the Santos is actor and producer Ryan Reynolds. He has been spotted wearing a Cartier Santos on various occasions, including red carpet events and film premieres, adding a touch of elegance to his attire.

4. Specs-tacular Beauty

The Santos de Cartier, ref. W2SA0016. Cartier

The Santos de Cartier, ref. W2SA0016 sports a dual tone bezel with a steel case holding the yellow gold frame. The 6 screws that secure the construction remain unchanged, as does the steel bracelet. Featuring a simple 3 hand complication, this timepiece is driven by an inhouse movement, the 1867 MC ensuring a power reserve of upto 48 hours. Not to forget, the watch is water resistant to 100M. Though there is a chronograph available in the collection but the added complication does not justify the compromise on the appearance.

5. PassTime Facts

The Cartier Santos had its first beginnings in 1904 when Louis Cartier created a watch for his good friend, a Brazilian aviator named Alberto Santos-Dumont. The Cartier Santos was officially named and launched in 1911 with a similar style as the 1904 creation. The Cartier Santos changed in style throughout the years, including the Cartier Santos produced with a gold and steel bracelet in 1978. Today, the Cartier Santos luxury brand watch models are available in various case materials with a wide array of bracelet styles to choose from in order to find the perfect timepiece to suit your accessories collection.

The 1867 MC calibre by Cartier. WatchBase

6. Price Value

The Santos de Cartier is available on retail starting at $6,000, reaching all the way up to $68,000. Judging the price of a watch in isolation is tough and untidy; instead, a fun comparison would be to do a quick search on eBay and find similar items for the same price. By exploring the offerings on eBay, one can get a sense of the value and uniqueness that the Santos de Cartier brings to the table. It allows potential buyers to see how the watch stacks up against other timepieces within the same price range, providing a broader perspective and aiding in the decision-making process. Whether it’s the vintage charm, impeccable craftsmanship, or iconic design, the Santos de Cartier undoubtedly stands out among its counterparts, justifying its place in the luxury watch market.

7. Worth your time?

Cartier is a luxury jeweler with a vast distribution network and, contrary to its contemporaries, it does not control production to create a generational longing for its timepieces. The Santos de Cartier is readily available at their boutiques worldwide, making it relatively easier to acquire. However, the more coveted pieces, such as the Skeleton or the Chronograph, may be temporarily unavailable due to their limited popularity and, unfortunately, sheer bad luck!

Personally a big believer of the secondary market, plenty of Santos’ are available on Chrono24 with a slight premium as compared to the retail price. Navigating the bureaucratic processes of luxury brands can be frustrating and time-consuming. Instead, authorized resellers and watch dealers can offer a smoother purchasing experience. In conclusion, the Santos is a timepiece that is well worth the time and effort invested in acquiring it.

8. Fair Comparison

The only other watch that comes to mind when considering the shape of the Santos is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. However, it would be unfair to compare the Reverso with the Santos, especially when Cartier offers strong competition with The Tank.

Apple Watch SE series. Wired

The Santos features Cartier’s QuickSwitch technology, which allows the wearer to easily switch between straps, offering a more suitable finish for different occasions. With the convenience of the adjustable steel bracelet and QuickSwitch technology, one may wonder if it is fair to compare this French luxury timepiece with the technologically advanced Apple Watch from the American tech giant. Clearly, the comparison is not appropriate, but the similarity in shape and the versatility of the straps cannot be unseen. Since I noticed it, I cannot ignore it!

9. Versatility

Cartier watches throughout history have had the most gender neutral design and even with the “rugged” look, Santos is popular among all. Its clean tones and comfortable size makes it a versatile wristwatch for about any occasion. Often seen as a great companion of the 3 piece suit, the Santos does a remarkable job as a sports watch too.

When it comes to a timepiece with a price tag north of $7,000, versatility is limited to occasions with tight security as I don’t expect the Santos to be on a hike in the Andes chasing the age old drug trafficking trail. Jokes apart, versatility is a big factor while choosing the wrist partner for years to come.

10. Conclusion

The Cartier Santos is not just a timepiece; it’s a symbol of style, history, and a touch of aviation glamour. From its humble beginnings as a solution for Alberto Santos-Dumont’s aerial timekeeping needs to its modern-day presence as a coveted luxury watch, the Santos has stood the test of time. It combines timeless design elements with innovative features, making it a versatile choice for both formal occasions and everyday wear.

So, if you’re considering adding a touch of elegance to your accessories collection, the Cartier Santos is an excellent choice that will undoubtedly make a statement.

--

--