How to Feed Your Leopard Gecko
Leopard geckos are arguably the best reptile for first-time keepers and are an all-around amazing pet. Whether you’re brand new to reptiles, or just looking to expand your reptile family, leopard geckos are sure to bring you joy.
First of all, your leopard gecko should always have access to fresh, dechlorinated water. I recommend using the ReptiSafe tap water conditioner.
Leopard geckos have very basic dietary needs. They are insectivores, meaning they eat a variety of live insects.
Here are the best insects for your leopard gecko:
Dubia Roaches
Dubia Roaches are one of the most readily available feeder insects. This is great because they’re packed full of nutrients that will help nourish your gecko.
Superworms
Superworms are another easy-to-find feeder insect, which I highly recommend. As with everything, variety is key. Please don’t feed exclusively superworms, because they are higher in fat. As part of a varied diet, they’re great!
Black Soldier Fly Larvae
Often you’ll hear Black Soldier Fly Larvae called a variety of names, including BSFL or Nutrigrubs. They’re a very nutritious insect for your leopard gecko. One of the major benefits of BSFL is that they stay alive in the fridge for weeks or months! Additionally, BSFLs have large amounts of calcium, which is great for your gecko.
Mealworms
Mealworms are often used by breeders as a staple insect for leopard geckos, but this shouldn't be the case. Mealworms are relatively low in nutrients compared to the other insects which I’ve previously mentioned. They’re also high in chitin, which is what their exoskeleton is made of. I’d recommend making mealworms less than 25% of your leopard gecko’s diet. They can be a healthy part of a varied diet.
Crickets
Crickets are truly my least favorite feeder insect. For many years, crickets were the most popular feeder insect in the reptile hobby, because they were cheap and easy to breed. With the rise of dubia roaches, crickets are falling in popularity. Crickets are less nutritious than roaches and live shorter lives, too. I’d avoid crickets unless you have no other option.
Amount of Food
You should feed a variety of insects to your leopard gecko. If you are bowl feeding, you should offer your leopard gecko as many insects as they will eat in 10–15 minutes. If you are feeding using tongs (which is recommended so that you can more closely monitor your gecko,) you should provide your gecko as many insects as they are interested in eating.
Frequency of Feeding
The frequency at which you should offer your gecko food varies based on their age. Hatchlings should eat every day. Juveniles should eat every other day. Subadult and adult leopard geckos should eat twice per week.
Where should you get your feeder insects?
There are many options to get feeder insects for your leopard gecko.
Pet stores are many people’s first thought for getting feeder insects. While this may be the most convenient place to acquire your gecko’s food, it’s also the most expensive.
I prefer to order feeder insects online. I find that online insect suppliers have more variety, better prices, and healthier bugs. My favorite source is DubiaRoaches.com. If you’d like 10% off, feel free to use my referral link.
Another place to get feeder insects is reptile expos. These usually have a variety of insects. That being said, you’ll pay more for your insects than ordering online.
Supplementing Your Leopard Gecko
Unlike the wild, in captivity, your insects won’t be dusted in soil, so they won’t be covered in vitamins and minerals. Instead, it’s up to you as the keeper to make sure your leopard gecko gets those vitamins and minerals.
This is called supplementation, and without it, your gecko will develop irreversible health issues, such as metabolic bone disease, hyperparathyroidism, muscle twitches, and more. The good news: supplementation is easy.
What supplements does your leopard gecko need? That depends.
The first supplement is calcium. Are you using UVB lighting in your gecko’s enclosure? UVB lighting allows your gecko to produce its own vitamin D3. In turn, your gecko’s liver uses D3 to produce a hormone called calcitriol, which in simple terms allows your gecko to absorb calcium.
UVB lighting is not needed for leopard geckos, so I don’t recommend it for beginners. I use it for both of mine since I’m a more experienced keeper.
If you are not using UVB lighting, you need calcium with vitamin D3. If you are using UVB, you should supplement with calcium without vitamin D3.
Be sure to use the right one, as a mix-up could lead to either D3 overdose or hypocalcemia. You should dust the feeder insects with Calcium (with or without D3, depending on your lighting) at every feeding.
The second supplement is a multivitamin, which just as it sounds, is a mix of various vitamins that your leopard gecko needs to be healthy. You should feed these multivitamins every 3 or 4 feedings. At these meals, don’t add calcium, but rather just add the multivitamin. I highly recommend using a multivitamin with beta carotene, instead of plain vitamin A. The gecko’s body can convert beta carotene into vitamin A as needed, without the risk of getting too much. I recommend the Rep-Cal Herptivite Multivitamins.
Conclusion
In conclusion, leopard geckos are wonderful pets, which are easy animals to feed. If you think a leopard gecko would be the perfect pet for you, and you feel prepared to take on the responsibility, I’d highly suggest you get one.
This video is part of a series of leopard gecko care articles!
Read them all here, or watch the care video below.
