Belgorod
The Neighbourhoods, Markets, and Parks of a Russian City
For twelve days I walked through this city of just over 300,000 in southwestern Russia, 650 kilometers south of Moscow and 40 kilometers from the Ukrainian frontier. I passed through neighbourhoods of cottages and highrises, and parks that housed memorials and benches where one could sit and just be.
The main market in the city centre sold everything from agricultural implements to mobile phones; kitchenware to trainers, and a colourful variety of fruit and veg as well as meat, fish, dairy, and cheeses. Artificial flowers brightened every street corner: spring is the time for tending graves
The city has no tourism infrastructure, almost no-one in the streets and shops speaks English. It was neither friendly nor unfriendly — though the people that I encountered were welcoming in an unassuming way.
The mid-spring weather was mostly sunny and mild, with only a few days of rain. Trees came into blossom during my stay, and leaves began to shade the parks.
Built on the Sversky Donets River, the city has footpaths and biking trails that follow the water. People fish, walk their dogs, and and enjoy nature.
Cars stop when you cross the road. Shaded footpaths run the length and breadth of the city centre, and all neighbourhoods have playgrounds, basketball courts, and benches where people can sit outside their apartments and just chat.
Underpasses are one means of crossing the main roads, and these are also thriving markets selling everything from glasses to underwear, belts and bags, to keys and coffee.
There is a lot of public sculpture: a cast-bronze street-sweeper and his cat stand not far from the municipal market place; an artist and his dog catch the moment in a park; in front of the theatre a woman knits an endless sock. As well as the ubiquitous memorials to the Second World War — massive tank battles were fought not far away, and the Russians love their heroes — I saw commemorative statues to the fallen in Afghanistan, and to the victims of Chernobyl.
Victory Day, commemorating the defeat of Nazi Germany in 1945 was around the corner, and almost every shop had a poster thanking those who played a part in the Great Patriotic War.
So much to see… not enough time!
