Shooting a Great Actor Headshot and Model Looks.
Actor headshots and model composite photos are just as much about acting as they are about lighting and cameras. As photographers, we’re going to achieve outstanding results only if we are comfortable directing and inspiring the subject to project the looks that will attract auditions and subsequently get them work. The right look, wardrobe, expression, styling, lighting, and post production all play a role in creating a great headshot.
Determining the right look
Most actors are particularly well suited for certain roles; they can pull-off a “bad guy” role, or be a convincing detective, grandmother, or mentally disturbed type. Models have different looks they are good at: athletic, sophisticated, hipster, professional, retired, preppy, etc. The purpose of a headshot or model photo is to showcase the talent’s most marketable looks to casting directors. When the director sees what he wants an actor gets the gig.
Fortunately for us photographers, actors and models are trained to project personality and emotions, so it is a joy to work with them. I begin a session by discussing the vibe we are trying to capture. I ask them what kind of roles they typically get –or want to get. We look at wardrobe to compliment the right look. For headshots, dark solid garments work best. Different colors look good with different skin tones. I find that olive green and dark maroons flatter brunettes, while a strong blue looks great of a blonde. Black looks good on everybody.
Getting the right expression
While it’s nice to have a plan for everything, it’s good to leave room for happy accidents which sometimes create wonderful photographs. I encourage models to push the envelope –beyonds the limits of the look we are going for. Since we shoot dozens of takes for every set-up, it’s OK to end up with a few goofy outakes. The photographer can help an actor tap into different moods by narrating a revolving scenario during the shoot. Doing this takes some of the creative pressure off the talent so he can simply react to your narrative.
Hair and make-up
It’s not a great idea to use heavy make-up or elaborate hair styling for an actor or model headshot. Casting directors want to see the talent’s face not a pound of make-up. With modeling looks, it’s a different story. Models will often present a natural looking headshot, and then offer a more dramatic alternative which could include an after-six look or a fashion image. These photos could feature very stylized make-up, hair, and wardrobe. I’m referring, in this case, to female models. Although some stylists will differ with me on this point, I believe make up on men is wasted money. Any issue with a male face (blemishes, blood shot eyes, etc) can be easily fixed in retouching. At the risk of stating the obvious, we want to use a stylist that knows print make-up –not a wedding stylist.
Retouching
An important topic to cover is post production. Retouching photos for actors and models is different from any other client. An actor’s headshot needs to look exactly like he will appear when he walks into the casting director’s office. Maybe the photograph looks like that actor on a very good day after a lot of sleep and a weekend at the spa! None-the-less, it must be an accurate portrayal. Things that are OK to retouch are blood shot eyes, blemishes, brightening teeth, fly hairs, etc. Things you don’t want to touch are wrinkles, birth marks, hairline, and double chins! Those undereye wrinkles may very well be the reason why your acting client gets hired!
What does a talent agency need?
Typically a talent agency wants a commercial and a theatrical headshot from an actor. From a model, they want a commercial headshot and three looks. The commercial headshot should be upbeat (smiling). The theatrical shot should show more depth and character. The photos below illustrate this contrast perfectly. The type of roles an actor hopes to get determines the expressions a photographer needs to capture.
With model looks, such as those shown below, the talent wants to showcase looks that are most marketable (believable) for him or her. For example, Nick is too young to pull off the role of a doctor or CEO but he sure is convincing as a street kid. Kylee is casual but dressy in this photo. I’m thinking if Lulus is planning an ad campaign and looking for models, Kylee is a shoe-in. Again, think: “What kind of acting or modeling gigs are we trying to get?”
The right lighting
Lighting is a broad subject that deserves an article all of it’s own. So I will just cover a couple of things that are sometimes overlooked. One is to have bottom lighting by using a reflector or a soft diffused light aimed up at the subject. Not only will this create beautiful catch lights but it will also avoid shadows under the eyes. Another subtle effect is to have light from the rear hitting the subject’s back to create a soft glow on the hair and shoulders. Whether the shoot is in-studio or on location, these two techniques can enhance the lighting.
Shooting actors and models offers a special advantage: they are pros and already understand what a photographer is trying to accomplish. Arielle Fajardo, a model I worked with shooting a Tcherassi dress once told me she could “feel the light” on her skin. Having this intuition helped her to move with the light and create striking images. Indeed! Working with models can be very rewarding and can produce beautiful and expressive photography.
