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Death and Reincarnation of Azure Window
Disappeared portal
March 8th, 2017 became, without a doubt, one of the darkest dates in the modern history of Malta. On that day, because of a strong storm, the arch Azure Window collapsed. It was located on the western edge of Gozo Island near Dwejra Bay. It was one of the most famous natural phenomena of the country. Its appearance in Game of Thrones (the wedding of Daenerys and Khal Drogo) only added to its popularity.
Since then, you can see the genius work of water and wind only in photos and postcards.
Only a cliff remained in that place — picturesque but banal. Nonetheless, Dwejra is still popular, having even a regular bus, although there’s no settlement. There was an unrealized project to recover the arch from steel with an interactive museum inside, but, as you understand, it couldn’t duplicate the natural wonder.
Probably, no other emptiness in the world is as popular.
Dwejra has other interesting spots, and it is worth attention anyway. But first, let’s go a few kilometers north. Here, far from crowds and tourist infrastructure, another natural arch is located.
No regular buses reach it, of course. The closest stops are in Għarb village and near Ta’ Pinu basilica. You need to go about 2,5 km from both places. The road from Għarb is suitable for a car, and only the wild footpath leads from the basilica.
The mysterious arch is called Wied Il-Mielaħ. A deep gorge leads to it. There are two closed gates on the way. People bypass the first one but not the second. I acted the same way.
Of course, it isn’t absolutely incognito (over 2800 reviews on Google Maps won’t let me lie). There was a climber on the arch that helped to realize its scale:
I noticed a couple of giant and colorful jellyfish. They seemed to have about 30 sm in diameter, and I wouldn’t want to get acquainted with them closer.
From the opposite side of the gorge, the arch has another look, with almost straight lines and forms. It has big cracks and, one day, it can not withstand the elements as well…
That gorge stretches deep inside the island (Wied Il-Mielaħ can be translated as “salt valley”). It is reclaimed as a channel, which is crucial for these dry areas.
One of the old roadside watchtowers and modest Maltese fauna:
Now, let’s move back to Dwejra and see what remains here except the lost Azure Window. In my opinion, the most interesting thing here is the Inland Sea. Water from the Mediterranean Sea made a crack in the cliff and filled a hollow in the island.
Although its views from the top are spoiled by some eyesores (boathouses?).
There were no waves. That allowed me to swim with pleasure.
A mass of boats was waiting to carry tourists to the outside. In 2019, it cost 4 Euros per person.
Shores outside are densely covered with caves and grottoes.
The boat visits a couple of caves. The water’s blueness is fabulous:
Another exciting place is Blue Hole. It is deep and beloved by divers.
And even this is beautiful in some sense:
Also, it was worth walking by the coast in a southward direction. Why? For example, because I loved every square inch of these deserted tiny islands.
Fungus Rock is famous because its moss was considered to be healing, even with the possibility of being imprisoned on galleys for those who tried to get it without permission… and later it turned out to be ordinary and not healing.
The Dwejra watchtower:
Inner Sea and other markers of civilisation remained far behind:
I took a photo of only one local dragon, although there was a mass of them.
Thus, I wasn’t surprised that the cape, which creates the bay, looks like the tail of some lizard.
Although the sea overcame Azure Window a few years ago, it continues to break its powerful waves against the shore.
As it is the western edge of Malta, I couldn’t miss at least one sunset there.
Also, I was not unique, because even in the low season, the bay was crowded.
But the spectacle was worth a deserved place in my memories.
The sun pierced the cloud cover and finally drowned in the sea.
With the onset of darkness, the life on Dwejra freezes. Portable shops and cafes close and go away, just like the visitors on their own transport. There is not one lantern, and the international crowd of tourists is waiting for the last bus in the dark. Not totally dark, though, because stars shine brightly like never before. Living in a city, I started to forget how radiant they can be.
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