Angel Island — A Ferry Ride Back in Time
One of the things that sets the Bay Area apart is the easy and abundant access to nature — not just parks and trails, but places steeped in rich history. Angel Island is one such magical place. A short ferry ride from San Francisco or Tiburon transports you to an undeveloped place with layers of historical significance.
Once a hunting and fishing destination for Coastal Miwoks, Angel Island was named by Spanish sailors who landed there in 1775 as the first Europeans entered the San Francisco Bay. They called it Isla de los Angeles, although American sailors later nicknamed it “Wood Island” for the abundance of trees. Army personnel again renamed the land Fort McDowell, but the original moniker stuck, through years of use as a military camp, quarantine station, Nike mission station, and immigration control point.
Today, remnants of that rich past remain in what’s now California State Park protected land. Debark the ferry and you step into a wild, beautiful place with panoramic views of the entire Bay and some of the best bird watching around. The grebes, blue herons, and egrets love it here — and so will you.
AYALA COVE
The ferries to Angel Island land in Ayala Cove, where a visitor center and seasonal cafe are more or less the only modern amenities. Some daytrippers come to bask in the sun on the small beach, execute
a barbecue using the basic facilities, or picnic under the Tasmanian blue gum eucalyptus — a non-native species planted by the army a hundred years ago which have largely taken over the arboreal landscape.
THE PERIMETER
Many visitors walk or bike the five-mile perimeter on the aptly named Perimeter Road. There are numerous smaller trails that offshoot this surfaced road, and maps are available at the Welcome Center. Hikers can summit Mt. Livermore for a more strenuous workout and an epic view of the Bay, but bicycles must be left behind for this part of the journey.
HISTORIC SITES
When hiking the periphery of the island counterclockwise, you’ll pass a legion of historic military sites including garrisons, forts, and barracks. But the more subtle history must be sought out. On the walls of the Angel Island Immigration Station are etched a collection of poetry written by Chinese detainees awaiting decisions on their entry status from the early 20th Century. Preservationists have fought to save these poems and today the Immigration Station has been converted into a museum.
CAMPING
A limited number of sites across four camping areas provide an overnight escape from city life, but they fill up very quickly early in the year. Most of them are walk-in sites, so bank on a 40-minute-or-so hike from the ferry dock. The last ferry “home” leaves at 4pm. Once the daytrippers are gone, the island is a sweet, tranquil spot for camping.
WATER ACCESS
Ayala Cove has some of the largest public docks in the Bay, with 40-foot slips and 20-foot mooring buoys perfect for aquatic entré. (Either use a California State Park Annual Day-Use Pass or self-pay; first come, first served.) Kayakers, too, love the island. For them, more isolated parts of the shoreline become a unique adventure.
