Ode to the Presidio — The Country within a City
Green open space is a balm for the urban soul, and San Francisco is lucky to have one of the most verdant open spaces of any city. Originally a Spanish fort established in 1776, the Presidio came under the domain of the U.S. military during the Mexican-American War, and there it remained until the base was closed in 1989. For several years, this choice spot at the mouth of the Golden Gate languished. Then, in 1984, the Presidio was inducted into the National Park Service, which proved to be a dynamic rebirth.
Today, the Presidio’s culture is rich. With a deft balance of preserved open space and smart commercial and residential development, the modern Presidio Trust has slowly transformed a defunct military base into a scenic wonderland with a little something for everyone.
Miles And Miles Of Trails
Hiking and the Bay Area go hand in hand, and you don’t have to traverse a bridge to get a great trail workout. The Presidio has some of the Bay’s most scenic trails for outdoor enthusiasts of all skill levels. The Ecology Trail is a short, easy trek from Arguello Gate to the Main Post, passing through grasslands, redwoods, and wildflowers. The California Coastal Trail is part of a greater 2,000-mile route that stretches from Mexico to Oregon and skims the coast of San Francisco via the Presidio.
Off The Grid
San Francisco is no stranger to food truck parties. The Presidio Picnic, which runs seasonally from March through October every Sunday, is one of the finest. Held at the enormous Main Parade Ground just off Crissy Field, delicious food is abundant and the crowd ebullient. In addition to the finest fare from local chefs across a spectrum of genres and regions, there are lawn games, outdoor yoga sessions, and nature-based arts and crafts for kids.
Superior Culinary Options
The revitalization of the Presidio has attracted some of the city’s top chefs and restaurateurs. Arguello Restaurant inside the Presidio Officer’s Club is helmed by famed San Francisco chef Traci Des Jardins, and features upscale Mexican cuisine and craft cocktails. The Commissary at the main post, another Des Jardins project, focuses on sustainable local ingredients in its Spanish-Californian cuisine.The Presidio Social Club, one of the first restaurants to take a chance on this out-of-the-way slice of San Francisco, still thrives with its modern take on 50s-era comfort food.
Unique Outdoor Art
British artist Andy Goldsworthy has put a new spin on al fresco art with his evolving site-specific Presidio installations Spire, Wood Line, and Tree Fall. Using natural materials like downed Presidio trees, Goldsworthy meditates on the relationship between the natural and man-made environment of the Presidio. These colossal artworks are located in three different parts of the Presidio, but you can take a guided tour at a designated time or by appointment.
Crissy Field and the Warming Hut
No ode to the Presidio would be complete without a mention of Crissy Field, San Francisco’s beloved bayside recreational spot. A dog and kid-friendly beach at the base of the Golden Gate Bridge, Crissy Field is often sunny when the rest of the city is engulfed in fog. The renovation of old military airplane hangars and warehouses along Mason Street have provided space for Planet Granite climbing gym, House of Air, and Sports Basement, among other family fun and recreational-minded businesses. Walk along the water’s edge or pop into the Warming Hut Cafe and Park Store for a hot chocolate or fair-trade coffee and some trinkets to send home.
