After our little vacation, we’re back in the damp cellar* and are even more excited about what’s to come. This month we have two of the new and young German winemakers. One from Rheinhessen and one form Franconia. Both successfully convinced their families to get into the natural way of making wine. Also to get things going, we’ve got some super-star juice by the heroes of Domaine Mosse in the Loire. Enjoy and let me know what you think!
Bacchus, Müller-Thurgau, Scheurebe, Silvaner
He almost became a banker, but just at the last minute, he didn’t get the apprenticeship he hoped for and changed to learning all about making wine. His parents were probably happy because he could take over the winery in the small town of Iphofen and continue the family business. He wasn’t interested in winemaking as a kid, but now he’s thrilled to have chosen this path and he’s slowly changing how they make wine: all organic, picking grapes by hand, spontaneous fermentation, and big oak barrels are now being used. This year he started the new line without any filtering and no added sulfites.
All the grape varieties for this wine ferment separately in oak barrels after they’re pressed with an old basket press. The vines are up to 45 years old. After it is being pressed, the juice remains in those oak barrels for nine months until it’s all put together and bottled in May. What you get is a very easy drinking white wine with a slight herbal and flowery nose and a well balanced tropical taste. With its fuller body and medium acidity it should work well with a variety of white pasta dishes.
Pineau d’Aunis, Grolleau
Before they started their wine adventure, Agnès and René Mosse had a wine bar in Tours together. Their experience back then made them change direction, and they started to study viticulture and enology in Amboise. After two years in Burgundy, they found a retiring winemaker in the Anjou and around 1999 bought the winery in Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay. Immediately they started transforming everything to organic, but initially had a hard time selling wine because of the bad reputation of the Anjou region. Today they are at the forefront of making Loire one of the hotbeds of natural wine. They now farm 17 hectares together with their two sons Joseph and Sylvestre, who are slowly taking over the winery.
The Moussamoussettes is a unique Pet Nat, it has quite the cult following and is usually sold out very quickly. The formula of what goes into it is dependent on the amount of each grape variety they have that year. After two days with the skins, the pressed juice ferments for two months in Burgundy barrels. It was filled into bottles last November with 15 grams of sugar left to continue the fermentation and to add the bubbles. It’s perfect as an aperitif, or because it’s slightly off-dry as a night-cap with dessert.
2018 Cuvée Rot
St. Laurent, Regent
The Bergkloster winery exists since the 18th century, and 120 years ago, the current family took it over and is now in its fourth generation. Jason, the son, has just started making his first line of natural wines. They own 8 hectares and have been farming them organically since 2006. Jason knew very early on he wanted to make wine and decided he will take over the winery at some point. By now he is part of a group of winemakers in Germany which are slowly transforming their parents wineries and changing the winemaking for the better. Let’s see how things will evolve for the next couple of years.
The grapes for this red wine come from a plot called “Aulerde” which features loess layers, clay marl and a tiny percentage of limestone. The vines are relatively young with about 15 years. After the harvest, they are left for two weeks with their skins to macerate. Once they are pressed, they go for nine months in a mix of oak barrels and stainless steel tanks. It’s a very young and fresh wine with a beautiful violet color and smells a little like a cinnamon bun filled with cherries. A pretty light wine with good acidity, which makes it a very flexible food friend.
You live in Germany (for EU just ask) and you are interested in getting three bottles of natural wine per month? Sign up here: plain.wine