Plain Wine Volume 4: Action Bronson Didn’t Know

This month we are benefiting from an unnamed Berlin restaurant changing owners and actually not picking up their allocation from the importer. Because that Susucaru is usually sold out everywhere. Thank Action Bronson for that. Also in there is a traditional Greek wine which we discovered while eating at a Restaurant in Iceland. To finish, we got two amazing sisters to join us and send the wine while they are waiting for Tom.

Illustration by Anna Vu, @goodwinecrapdrawing

Domaine Glinavos
2016 Paleokerisio

Debina, Vlahiko
Ioannina, Greece

Lefteris Glinavos started his winery after he studied enology and viticulture in Bordeaux. Once back in Greece he began working with local grape varieties and researched traditional winemaking methods. For the past 40 years, he continually expanded the winery which is now at 58 hectares, which also means Glinavos is not only making natural wines.

The Paleokerisio, which translates to “old-fashioned wine” is an exceptional project to resurrect a winemaking style which was very common in the Zitsa region. It is is a slightly sweet semi-sparkling orange wine, which is made with 12 days of skin contact from the white grape Debina and a little bit of the red grape Vlahiko. It smells and tastes almost like sweet apple cider, but reveals lots of honey, tropical aromas, and a slight bitterness. Should work beautifully with cheese before or after dinner.

Frank Cornelissen
2017 Susucaru

Malvasia, Moscadella, Cattaratto, Nerello Mascalese
Sicily, Italy

As the son of a wine broker, Frank was exposed to wine from very early on and pretty soon was very much bored by all the expensive wines he drank. He set out to make different and more authentic wines with a focus on minerality. So he moved to Sicily and tried to make wines that ideally should taste like liquid rock. He is trying to avoid any treatments to his land, even homeopathic, organic or biodynamic, and just follows the path of nature as he puts it. Still, the cork is only one indication he’s also using technology wherever possible to support his idea of terroir-driven wines.

The wine I picked made him a celebrity with a very different community. Action Bronson in his questionable effort to conquer natural wine chose Susucaru as his favorite wine of all times. Consequently, Susucaru was suddenly sold out everywhere and is to this day still very hard to find. Hopefully, you will taste the Etna minerality when trying this. It had ten days of skin contact and matured in epoxy tanks for a very pure taste. This is a very Jura-like wine, so have it with what you feel like, but it will be especially good with any kind of seafood.

rennersistas
2017 Waiting for Tom Red

Blaufränkisch
Burgenland, Austria

After Stefanie had stints at Domaine Matassa with Tom Lubbe and at Tom Shobrook in Australia, she joined forces with her sister Susanne. They slowly made their own wines at their parents winery in the village of Gols at Neusiedlersee. Together they farm around 13 hectares and are currently transitioning the vineyards from organic to biodynamic practices. They own some of the best plots in the area and make some of the best Burgenland wines.

The name of the “Waiting for Tom” wine came from a story where people would always wait for Tom (Lubbe). It is a red blend with half Zweigelt, Sankt Laurent, and a little Blaufränkisch. Most of them were left for twelve days with their skins to ferment. Afterward, they spent eight months on their lees in used oak barrels before bottling. The result is as fantastic as it sounds and stylistically feels very French to me. With its nice acidity, I suggest trying this with a hearty pasta dish or some lamb chops.

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